Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

dockattner said:
Work is slowly continuing on the square frames.

While the vast majority of them follow the same subtle stepping pattern (cross chocks, floors, and first futtocks are 10", second futtocks are 9 1/2", top timbers are 9" - all actual sizes) there are 6 frames that have 'offset' top timbers. Some of the offsets are small, but others are rather substantial.

In order to create the offset accurately it was simply a matter of custom fabricating spacers of the required thickness:

View attachment 359506

A closer look at the offset:

View attachment 359507

While I am able to split the thickness of the chocks for the normal 1/2" step that would create a very narrow overlap zone for these offset frames. To that end I inserted some faux chocks:

View attachment 359508

View attachment 359510

And now roughly shaped:

View attachment 359511

There is still some work to do here but my research has not yet revealed what to do with these offset areas now that I have the faux chocks in place...

There are also some special frames that have 'bent' top timbers (cast frames). On a scratch build these would simply be created from dimensional stock - but the kit uses a layering technique.

(Yesterday I received my order of boxwood so theoretically I could now build these cast frames from scratch - but I thought I would give the kit design a shot to see how it would look.)

Here is the addition of a layer of wood (about 2 mm at scale) on the forward side of one of the frames:

View attachment 359509

And now roughly shaped:

View attachment 359512

So far, so good.

Next, I'll need to remove the same amount of wood (2 mm) from the aft side to create the bend. I would show you that attempt but I'm working tomorrow morning and I have some preparations to complete so model building will have to wait for another day.

I hope I'm getting all these frames right! It's quite a lot of work without really knowing if things are being done properly...

Thank you for visiting!
Click to expand...
I hear you about the uncertainty thing - I would not have liked that either. However, I am sure that after all your research and checking up, you are on the right track. You might have to do some individual adjustments here and there, but as far as the bulk of the construction goes, I'm sure you will be fine!
 
Good morning Paul, really impressive how clean you are. I know these curved frames from the Speedwell and Naiad drawings and yes they are a challenge to make. I can only agree with Christian that you have found a great solution for this.

You write that you got the wood, I think it was from Vahur, would you like to show a picture of what it looks like, I would be interested in the quality.
 
dockattner said:
IMG_9355.JPG
Click to expand...
Laid out neat as toy soldiers. Looking good.
BTW, I just saw a Bob Hunt Kingfisher on eBay for $2,000. If only librarians were reimbursed a bit more equitably. . . .
 
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dockattner said:
Work is slowly continuing on the square frames.

While the vast majority of them follow the same subtle stepping pattern (cross chocks, floors, and first futtocks are 10", second futtocks are 9 1/2", top timbers are 9" - all actual sizes) there are 6 frames that have 'offset' top timbers. Some of the offsets are small, but others are rather substantial.

In order to create the offset accurately it was simply a matter of custom fabricating spacers of the required thickness:

View attachment 359506

A closer look at the offset:

View attachment 359507

While I am able to split the thickness of the chocks for the normal 1/2" step that would create a very narrow overlap zone for these offset frames. To that end I inserted some faux chocks:

View attachment 359508

View attachment 359510

And now roughly shaped:

View attachment 359511

There is still some work to do here but my research has not yet revealed what to do with these offset areas now that I have the faux chocks in place...

There are also some special frames that have 'bent' top timbers (cast frames). On a scratch build these would simply be created from dimensional stock - but the kit uses a layering technique.

(Yesterday I received my order of boxwood so theoretically I could now build these cast frames from scratch - but I thought I would give the kit design a shot to see how it would look.)

Here is the addition of a layer of wood (about 2 mm at scale) on the forward side of one of the frames:

View attachment 359509

And now roughly shaped:

View attachment 359512

So far, so good.

Next, I'll need to remove the same amount of wood (2 mm) from the aft side to create the bend. I would show you that attempt but I'm working tomorrow morning and I have some preparations to complete so model building will have to wait for another day.

I hope I'm getting all these frames right! It's quite a lot of work without really knowing if things are being done properly...

Thank you for visiting!
Click to expand...
When you're not really sure about that offset, you could also take some pieces of scrap and run some tests to check what the best approach is and what yields the best, most authentic appearing results.
 
Tobias said:
You write that you got the wood, I think it was from Vahur, would you like to show a picture of what it looks like, I would be interested in the quality.
Click to expand...
Yes, from Vahur. The quality is fantastic. Give me a few days and I'll post some pictures. I'm still doing inventory and repackaging and I don't want to get lost.
 
I thought I should wrap up the documentation of the fabrication of the bend on my cast frames. I had previously added a 2mm strip on the forward side of the frame and I now needed to remove a 2mm strip from the aft side of that frame.

I considered several approaches ranging from just using files and sandpaper all the way to using my mill for the first time ever. In the end I used my disc sander but not before modifying it (@Steef66 would have made a new disc sander out of a bicycle wheel, the motor from a kitchen blender, and parts he ordered from Ali for just under 3 euro... but I lack his ingenuity).

I think the following photos will make my modification of the disc sander clear:

IMG_9387.JPG

IMG_9388.JPG

I now have access to the edge of the disc...

I marked out the portion I needed to remove:

IMG_9389.JPG

And then carefully sanded back to the line checking over and over again for accuracy...

IMG_9391.JPG

And this was the result:

IMG_9393.JPG

IMG_9395.JPG

I am currently sanding the fore and aft surfaces of the offset and cast frames and snapping joints out of carelessness. I decided it was best to stop for the day...

You are kind to follow my build!
 
dockattner said:
(@Steef66 would have made a new disc sander out of a bicycle wheel, the motor from a kitchen blender, and parts he ordered from Ali for just under 3 euro... but I lack his ingenuity).
Click to expand...

ROTFROTF no, things like that I would sand by hand. Those machines are to heavy for such a delicate job. Something I learned by experience.

But if you want I can make you plans how to build such a tool. :cool:ROTF
 
dockattner said:
I thought I should wrap up the documentation of the fabrication of the bend on my cast frames. I had previously added a 2mm strip on the forward side of the frame and I now needed to remove a 2mm strip from the aft side of that frame.

I considered several approaches ranging from just using files and sandpaper all the way to using my mill for the first time ever. In the end I used my disc sander but not before modifying it (@Steef66 would have made a new disc sander out of a bicycle wheel, the motor from a kitchen blender, and parts he ordered from Ali for just under 3 euro... but I lack his ingenuity).

I think the following photos will make my modification of the disc sander clear:

View attachment 359755

View attachment 359756

I now have access to the edge of the disc...

I marked out the portion I needed to remove:

View attachment 359757

And then carefully sanded back to the line checking over and over again for accuracy...

View attachment 359758

And this was the result:

View attachment 359759

View attachment 359760

I am currently sanding the fore and aft surfaces of the offset and cast frames and snapping joints out of carelessness. I decided it was best to stop for the day...

You are kind to follow my build!
Click to expand...
Snapping and frames, those two words, used in on sentence, spell small disasters. For your consolation, I've seen my fair share of those, despite my efforts to avoid them.
It's one of those nuisances one has to overcome.
Your offset method works like a charm, by the looks of it.
 
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