Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

dockattner said:
I thought I should wrap up the documentation of the fabrication of the bend on my cast frames. I had previously added a 2mm strip on the forward side of the frame and I now needed to remove a 2mm strip from the aft side of that frame.

I considered several approaches ranging from just using files and sandpaper all the way to using my mill for the first time ever. In the end I used my disc sander but not before modifying it (@Steef66 would have made a new disc sander out of a bicycle wheel, the motor from a kitchen blender, and parts he ordered from Ali for just under 3 euro... but I lack his ingenuity).

I think the following photos will make my modification of the disc sander clear:

View attachment 359755

View attachment 359756

I now have access to the edge of the disc...

I marked out the portion I needed to remove:

View attachment 359757

And then carefully sanded back to the line checking over and over again for accuracy...

View attachment 359758

And this was the result:

View attachment 359759

View attachment 359760

I am currently sanding the fore and aft surfaces of the offset and cast frames and snapping joints out of carelessness. I decided it was best to stop for the day...

You are kind to follow my build!
Click to expand...
A very nice outcome of the sanding of that frame, Paul. Slowly, step-by-step, check-check-double check and the discsander is very useful. And thanks for showing the sander modification. It was far away in my mind, but will ad it also.
Regards, Peter
 
dockattner said:
I thought I should wrap up the documentation of the fabrication of the bend on my cast frames. I had previously added a 2mm strip on the forward side of the frame and I now needed to remove a 2mm strip from the aft side of that frame.

I considered several approaches ranging from just using files and sandpaper all the way to using my mill for the first time ever. In the end I used my disc sander but not before modifying it (@Steef66 would have made a new disc sander out of a bicycle wheel, the motor from a kitchen blender, and parts he ordered from Ali for just under 3 euro... but I lack his ingenuity).

I think the following photos will make my modification of the disc sander clear:

View attachment 359755

View attachment 359756

I now have access to the edge of the disc...

I marked out the portion I needed to remove:

View attachment 359757

And then carefully sanded back to the line checking over and over again for accuracy...

View attachment 359758

And this was the result:

View attachment 359759

View attachment 359760

I am currently sanding the fore and aft surfaces of the offset and cast frames and snapping joints out of carelessness. I decided it was best to stop for the day...

You are kind to follow my build!
Click to expand...
Clever modification of the disk sander. What grit paper would you use for such delicate sanding?
 
Jeff T said:
Clever modification of the disk sander. What grit paper would you use for such delicate sanding?
Click to expand...
I think it has 180 on it right now Jeff. But the important part is that the Proxxon disc sander has speed control. This, of course, helps control the whole process making the result more predictable. In fact, I've never turned it up to full speed and I've had it for a few years now...
 
Daniel20 said:
Hi Paul, you're doing clean crisp joinery as would be needed for the frames. Will you be doing any pre beveling (for faring) prior to final placement?
Click to expand...
Hi Daniel. I don't think so - or at least not very much.

Several reasons:
  • I'm scared.
  • It's not really clear to me how much extra 'meat is on the bones' of these frames. I assume Mr. Hunt designed these pieces with excess wood for fairing, but how much?
  • The frame drawings provided with the kit do not show bevel lines like so many of the newer kits do. I think your BN frames even have bevel lines on the wood itself? I do have some frame drawings from other sources that show some bevel lines, but those show the amount of bevel over frame pairs not on the individual frames (on swan class ships the frames pairs are not bolted together fore and aft - there is a space between them).
  • The frames I have built thus far are the least beveled on the ship. If I ever finish these I will eventually get to cant frames (both fore and aft) and this is where the beveling will be much more pronounced.
  • I'm still scared.
A long answer to a short question. Perhaps others can address this topic with greater wisdom...
 
The YQ Bluenose does have fairing lines on the wood which I am grateful for. IF it didn't have, I would definitely be doing what you are doing and leave them square until final placement. I'm going to have to get me a disk sander, hopefully the last power tool I needROTF
 
Daniel20 said:
The YQ Bluenose does have fairing lines on the wood which I am grateful for. IF it didn't have, I would definitely be doing what you are doing and leave them square until final placement. I'm going to have to get me a disk sander, hopefully the last power tool I needROTF
Click to expand...
No, there is never the "LAST" tool ever needed, somebody will invent a better widget working tool, that somebody else shows off and then you will just have to have one. Ha Ha :eek: ROTF
 
As I heard a story on my model railroad groups, where a man said his wife said he had to stop buying more trains and sell his collection off or she would leave, He then emailed his friends to bring trucks over to help move things out of the house. When they said your getting rid of your trains, he said "No I am letter her take her second option" and need help packing her stuff off.
 
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