Sergey (Bibigon who is a sponsor on our forum) couldn't get me boxwood (he supplied all the pear on my Vasa and his quality is excellent) so I placed an order with Vahur at hobbymill.eu. I am very happy with the quality of the wood I received.
- looking to be another brilliant build!!
Paul,
) The Proxxon sander will be a very acceptable upgrade from what I’m using. Actually, all of my table top tools are from Proxxon, except for the sander which will complete my tool needs. His Disc Sander is also way above my skill levels' need – indeed a beautiful tool.
I think you will be happy with the Proxxon sander. The one thing that I dislike is the distance of the tilting table from the sanding disc. You will notice in my picture posted earlier that I have found it helpful to add a piece of thin metal to bring the wood closer to the sander. Double sided tape holds it temporarily in place.Paul,
Yes thanks, Jim Byrnes’ products have always been at the top of the list. That said, if I were a more prolific builder along with several more under the table waiting for their births and later launchings, I would have earlier considered purchasing some of his superb tools.
With only one more build in mind (current one is only my third in four decades - yikes
As it’s been said, (generally speaking) “One’s work, to a great extent, also has to do with using very good tools”. Not excluding a high-level skill set. Your work will continue to be indicative of articulate skills and using excellent tools as well.
You are reading my mind, mon ami! One of my most recent projects was to fix the distance between the disk and the table. Of cause, I use my Proxxon mill to make the necessary changes.
That would be great Jim if you could show that, then I don't always have to put a sheet of metal or a piece of wood underneath, like Paul does.You are reading my mind, mon ami! One of my most recent projects was to fix the distance between the disk and the table. Of cause, I use my Proxxon mill to make the necessary changes.
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I am planning to post the changes I made so everyone can do it (if they want)
I believe it's the challenge Paul, at least that's what drives me. Believe me, you're not broken, the challenge lies before you!It started out as a promising week. After a busy stretch I was only scheduled to work three days and there would be lots of time for ship building...
First, I tackled the half frames (the fore and aft cant frames). That went very well...
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These are paired (port and stbd) and stacked on each other.
Next, I tried my hand at creating trenails with my new Byrnes drawplate. I was able to get 1 x 1 mm boxwood down to 0.53-0.56 mm (not sure why the size varies along the length of the strip). At 1:48 that would create a 1 inch (2.5 cm) peg. Perfect!
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And now in place:
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I'm very satisfied with that result. The end-grain picks up the wipe-on-poly very nicely to my eye.
Speaking of wipe-on-poly (he says to build suspense...), now would be the perfect time to add a finish to the fore and aft faces of the frames. Once they are in place it will be very difficult to access those surfaces.
But, if the front and back surfaces of the frames are wet how can I put them down to dry? I know! I'll hang them from a string stretched tight (so it stays straight and the frames won't slump together)...
That should work great as long as I don't bump the string causing it to spring/snap and send frames crashing to the hardwood floor...
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Yes, I did... Fifteen broken frames... One broken shipbuilder.
A project for another day because its Kattner Family Dinner tonight and I'm the chef (four kids with their spouses / friends along with grandkids). Cooking for this bunch is nearly impossible. Here are the restrictions across the group: no pork, no dairy (that's no eggs, butter, cheese, milk, etc.), no meat at all, no nuts, no soy, no gluten.
Looks like it's going to be apple sauce and beer.
I agree 100% Jim. There was something that went amiss with the gluing. Better address that now than real heartache later - now it's just a disappointment and slight delay.Unlike others who would snivel about broken frames, I will be mostly alone and will say it is a Good Thing! Yea, you heard it right, good thing this happened now before you even attempt to install them. If they have to break, then this is the time that happened. I would rather investigate why this happened, no...no...not because they jump on the hard floor! It is a problem related to bad gluing, IMHO. I understand that is not really much surface for effective gluing, therefore you have to use a very strong and fresh glue. Also, maybe it was not enough pressure while glue curing?
In any case, I would try other frames how they can hold the pressure. Maybe it is a good thing to throw other frames on the hard floor?!
But you will think about all this tomorrow. Today, enjoy the Kattner Family Dinner where you are the Chef. BTW, does apple sauce require cooking? I know beer does, it is called brewing!
Unlike others who would snivel about broken frames, I will be mostly alone and will say it is a Good Thing! Yea, you heard it right, good thing this happened now before you even attempt to install them. If they have to break, then this is the time that happened. I would rather investigate why this happened, no...no...not because they jump on the hard floor! It is a problem related to bad gluing, IMHO. I understand that is not really much surface for effective gluing, therefore you have to use a very strong and fresh glue. Also, maybe it was not enough pressure while glue curing?
In any case, I would try other frames how they can hold the pressure. Maybe it is a good thing to throw other frames on the hard floor?!
But you will think about all this tomorrow. Today, enjoy the Kattner Family Dinner where you are the Chef. BTW, does apple sauce require cooking? I know beer does, it is called brewing!
I won't disagree here gentlemen. Many of the breaks are at the places I glued two pieces together. Did I fail to glue them adequately? Did I fail to clamp them together properly? Both are possible. Some of the breaks are in the vicinity of the glued joints but also show failure within the wood itself (that is, the joint itself remains intact but the wood is split consistent with its grain). At the end of the day, I have some remedial work to do. I won't call it a redo because this is not elective - but it is certainly re-covering ground that I thought I had already traversed. I will take great care to not rush this correction - I don't want to build frames that are inaccurate out of frustration...
I think I have the wrong job.
That's something that happens. If you installed the treenails in the frames they are much more stable. It's not so easy to give enough pressure on the small joint without moving the parts. I give some glue on the joint and pressure the parts for 5 minutes together with my fingers. I find that I have then much more control on the pieces as using a clamp.
0.5mm treenails. That is a great result and it is looking really good.
Ditto
