Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

dockattner said:
I know none of you have slept well in anticipation of the preliminary sanding of the aft cant frames... So here is a photo tour:

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There is still more to do but I need to take a break. In particular I need to further refine where the frames merge with the deadwood (and this is true at the front of the ship as well) but sanding has lost its charm (if it ever had rare and desirable quality).

The overall appearance:

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Onward!
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Good morning Paul. No more compliments for you , you get enough… ;). Just a question…is there a reason why you are doing each gun port as you work on the individual frames? Does this not increase the risk of misalignment rather than positioning them after all the frames are completed? Your measurements have to 100%. Cheers Grant
 
RogerD said:
You mean you’ve been sanding so much the midships section is no longer there and has turned to saw dust? ROTF

Stunning work Paul, truly impressive.
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Most probably these are the frames left that are not broken. :-)

No kidding Paul, You're pictures are an advertisement for this kit. Looks brilliant.
 
GrantTyler said:
Good morning Paul. No more compliments for you , you get enough… ;). Just a question…is there a reason why you are doing each gun port as you work on the individual frames? Does this not increase the risk of misalignment rather than positioning them after all the frames are completed? Your measurements have to 100%. Cheers Grant
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This is a valid observation Grant. I'll think on that a bit. My thanks!
 
Thanks for the likes - it is very much appreciated.

I wrapped up the holiday weekend running some 'trials' and tuning up a few bits. First, it was necessary to improve the run of the (pending) planks into the rabbet at the curve near the bow - basically I extended the fairing of the frames into the deadwood and into the rabbet. @Frank48 this was an area you had expressed some concerns about - I hope I have this right!

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I also spent some time looking at other builds of swan class ships and made the tentative decision to fully plank the starboard side of the ship and leave the port side largely exposed. This means I only need to add trenails to the frames on the port side. Here are some trials on the outside of the ship:

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And now on the inside of the ship showing my solution to create a faux chock in place of the kit's scarph joint...

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The trenails are boxwood drawn down to roughly 0.54 - 0.56 mm. I'll be installing these on the frames and also the planking / decking...

I am beginning to realize how much work is involved in building a POF ship that hopes to show the details of the construction. I am enjoying working with wood - on my previous build there was a lot of decorative work and painting of metal bits. It's good for me to stretch myself into something different. Thanks for the visit and for inspiring me with your work! What a great hobby!
 
Respect, that you can prepare <0.6mm treenails. The smallest size for me is 0.75mm. Which tool do you use for such small treenails?
The result of your work is very good. The shape of your bow is looking really similiar to the results from Gregs masterpiece.
My favorite photo is this of the back Of your model. She (I mean your model ) has fantastic curves.
 
You are stretching your abilities and talent but will come out fine. If someone can do it, it's proven to be you!
Love the idea of planking one side of the ship and leave the other open to show the construction work. I don't know how much of the treenailing you can see from the open side towards the inner frames of the closed / planked side. So perhaps treenailing on the inside is needed only on the closed side of the hull and treenailing on the outside of the open side.

Peter
 
AnobiumPunctatum said:
Respect, that you can prepare <0.6mm treenails. The smallest size for me is 0.75mm. Which tool do you use for such small treenails?
The result of your work is very good. The shape of your bow is looking really similiar to the results from Gregs masterpiece.
My favorite photo is this of the back Of your model. She (I mean your model ) has fantastic curves.
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Well, comparing my work to Greg's might be a stretch ROTF but I appreciate the sentiment...

So, to answer your question, I am starting with strips of 1mm x 1mm box and using this drawplate: Byrnes Model Machines Drawplate.

I actually tried several other drawplates before discovering this one. For whatever reason this is the only one that works in my hands.

There is a bit of a learning curve to what would appear to be a rather simple task. I found this tutorial from Ted and have followed it pretty much to the letter: https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...isher-tedboat-completed-build.3244/post-64559
 
Daniel20 said:
Wonderfully done Paul. How do you achieve the contrast of the treenails with the boxwood frames since both are boxwood?
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You actually can't see them at all when everything is dry - but when I make the area wet the endgrain seems to pick up a different look. Here they are under a coat of wipe-on-poly:

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