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wish you all the best and full recovery
Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF
- Thread starter dockattner
- Start date
- Watchers 136
Happy to see your new building log of this interesting project
I will follow with big interest
I will follow with big interest
And so, it begins...
Those should be tabled scarf joints on the straight segments of the keel, but no one would know I made that effort, so they are just created as regular halving joints.
As I mentioned previously, I can see that this 'kit' is going to be best thought of as a helpful starter to a scratch build. For example, while the keel/stem/stern components are CNC cut from dimensional stock, they are cut oversize so each piece requires sanding and shaping. I'm sure there's a perfectly good reason for why the kit was produced this way though that escapes me at this point.
Pretty happy with the handling capabilities of the boxwood and its ability to be carefully shaped and cut:
I'm presently testing various ways to represent the tar-soaked flannel that lined the joints of the centerline components.
Thank you for all the well-wishes! And, again, I apologize for the delay in actual construction.
Those should be tabled scarf joints on the straight segments of the keel, but no one would know I made that effort, so they are just created as regular halving joints.
As I mentioned previously, I can see that this 'kit' is going to be best thought of as a helpful starter to a scratch build. For example, while the keel/stem/stern components are CNC cut from dimensional stock, they are cut oversize so each piece requires sanding and shaping. I'm sure there's a perfectly good reason for why the kit was produced this way though that escapes me at this point.
Pretty happy with the handling capabilities of the boxwood and its ability to be carefully shaped and cut:
I'm presently testing various ways to represent the tar-soaked flannel that lined the joints of the centerline components.
Thank you for all the well-wishes! And, again, I apologize for the delay in actual construction.
stain the PVA glue with black ink or powdered compound that is compatible with the glue and won't interfere with it setting.
Well, I did better than I anticipated - only five pages have elapsed before I realized the start of your next exciting project! Now, if only SOS would regularly send updates according to subscription preferences.
Good to see you've got going, Paul. Your boxwood looks really good. I am curious about the result and your solution with the black joints, I did it as Kurt described. I mixed glue and black stain and it didn't look bad.
Hi Paul,
A drop or two of black Acrylic paint mixed in the PVA wood clue.
Now the sawdust starts
And I just realized, that your log is already 5 pages long - I guess in one year we will have a new "record" - I like it
And I just realized, that your log is already 5 pages long - I guess in one year we will have a new "record" - I like it
I hardly dare to post, because before you know it, every post from Paul generates 5 pages of reply’s .....
But: nice to see you started up the build, Paul.
The quality of the parts looks great.Regards, Peter
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Here is a link to an old picture of my Triton build. I use a one layer cellulose for this, which you will get in hobby schops. In German it's called "Japanseide" or "Japon". The joint is stable. But you have to check if you have enough tolerance in your milled parts. If not I would use a black coal pen.
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Hi Paolo, the wood is very nice, I ask: are the sculls of the project (Kit) or modified by you? Thanks Frank
Good question Heinrich. At the centerline of this ship all of the large timbers that were below water had tar-soaked flannel placed between them. I suspect this was thicker than just tar alone (or another form of caulking). To that end I'm assuming it would be visible even at 1:48. Or maybe not?
Thanks Christian. That very fine line is precisely what I am envisioning.
The kit uses a very clever layering system to help with difficult constructions. The boxing joint begins as two pieces of wood that are then laminated together to create the portion of the joint that I photographed. But the CNC cuts everything oversized so the modeler needs to file and sand the piece into its proper dimensions. I spent an hour refining that boxing joint.
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Paul, you must consider these kits were manufactured with CNC many years ago before todays current methods of highly accurate work could be done.
Most CNC machines are accurate within at least .001”, that said even old ones we’re capable of +-.005”
I suspect the approach was to shoot for the high side of tolerance because you can always remove material, but you can’t add it back.
I know if I cut a part from scratch, I don’t attempt to cut it exact. Instead I cut it a little over size and sand it to be exact. More work, but also more accurate.
I suspect the approach was to shoot for the high side of tolerance because you can always remove material, but you can’t add it back.
I know if I cut a part from scratch, I don’t attempt to cut it exact. Instead I cut it a little over size and sand it to be exact. More work, but also more accurate.
Just a quick thought - when milling wood, even very hard wood, cutting to .005" is overkill. Why? Because all wood moves. It tries to equalize with the ambient humidity. It swells and it shrinks. Milling metal and mill wood are not typically to the same tolerances.