La Couronne Corel/scratch 1:100 First build [COMPLETED BUILD]

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Work continues on the mast assemblies. The top assemblies for mizzen, main, and fore topmasts were completed in that order, and everything is assembled loose to see how the overall progress is going. The sprit topmast trestle-trees and top are next, then the topgallant trestle-trees for the other masts. The flag staves at the top of the fore, main, and mizzen masts were made, and the caps and flag staves fitted to the topgallant masts. Oops... I just noticed that the cap on the for topmast is too low. I'll have to patch that by expending the topmast with a squared length of wood and raise it 7mm more to its proper height. Easy fix. No one will notice...
While I'm at it, I'll replace the cheeks on the main topmast. They appear too small.

Mizzen Top


Start main topmast top assembly.













Assembly fore topmast top assembly in similar fashion.




All top assemblies except the sprit assembly fitted together.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Alright... Corrected the fore topmast cap height and reworked the main topmast cheeks. Painted all the nails onto the topmast cheeks and trestle-trees.

 

[Charles QC]

Still following with great attention and taking note

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Today the bowsprit top assembly was completed and the parts fitted loosely together. Also included are a few night pictures of the lighting installed in the main deck, stern lanterns and turrets. The trestle-trees for the topgallant masts are next.

 

[Charles QC]

I just love it

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Hi Everyone!

The topgallant trestle-trees were made today, except for the sprit topsail mast upper trestle-tree, which will be made next. The parts are very tiny. An X-Acto saw is used to start cutting the notches in the trestle-tree parts for the cross-trees. After two slots are cut, the wood between them is removed with a careful twist of a razor knife. When the pieces are properly shaped, tapered on the ends, and ready to assemble, a slender needle nose pliers and your fat fingers are used to assemble the trestle-tree assembly together, with the space between the trestle-trees adjusted such that the flagstaff and the topgallant mast fit with no gaps. Add a tiny drop of CA glue to the intersections between the trestle-trees and cross-trees. Fit the assembly to the top of the topgallant mast, making sure that it is aligned with the lower end of the mast such that the flagstaff is directly forward and in line with the main axis of the hull. Add a small drop of CA glue deposited into slender stick of wood and apply it the join ONLY the trestle-tree assembly to the topgallant mast. The flagstaff and cap remain unglued for disassembly to allow rigging later.

 

[Charles QC]

Beautiful

I said id and will repeat I love it

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Es kam in der Post! Wunderbar!

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Beautiful

I said id and will repeat I love it

The older galleons have such an elegant and artistic appearance, like a gothic cathedral.

 

[Charles QC]

Before the Courone France was buying his war ship from other country or use merchant ship
The Courone was the first major warship build by Frenchman and build in France
A story about the construction said that the oak that was use came from Bretagne and from a forest from a noble that was not a good friend to the king

 

[Uwek]

Es kam in der Post! Wunderbar!

View attachment 112921

A very good step forward, that you got the copy of this highly recommended book - there are a lot of information inside - Great!

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Not much got done since last posting. The wooldings were placed on the masts using the new Syren line that arrived in the mail today. Tying them was easy. It's the same as tying a whipping knot when I was back on the ship. Diluted yellow PVA glue (Titebond III) was applied to secure the wooldings in place.

 

[NMBROOK]

Great work Kurt your Couronne is looking fabulous.I haven't see many renditions of this or Mantua's version with colour added.I think the blue is just the right amount as I know the full on painting detail for this vessel,whilst it may be historically accurate (who really knows?) can look a bit OTT.

Secondly,congratulations on finding Busman's book.This will be invaluable for your SOTs build.Another book which I found helpful was Sovereign of the Seas by James Sephton.I didn't mention it earlier as I couldn't be certain of the author as the book as only just resurfaced from our house moving process.This does not discuss fine details but discusses the geometry of the hull and deck height's and placement.I found this a useful guide in determining the tweaks I did to Deagostini's hull form

Kind Regards

Nigel

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Great work Kurt your Couronne is looking fabulous.I haven't see many renditions of this or Mantua's version with colour added.I think the blue is just the right amount as I know the full on painting detail for this vessel,whilst it may be historically accurate (who really knows?) can look a bit OTT.

Secondly,congratulations on finding Busman's book.This will be invaluable for your SOTs build.Another book which I found helpful was Sovereign of the Seas by James Sephton.I didn't mention it earlier as I couldn't be certain of the author as the book as only just resurfaced from our house moving process.This does not discuss fine details but discusses the geometry of the hull and deck height's and placement.I found this a useful guide in determining the tweaks I did to Deagostini's hull form

Kind Regards

Nigel

Hello Nigel,

The Corel version of La Couronne comes with prestained blue wood, and my ship follows this interpretation, plus added blue to the gallery tower caps. I believe that the blue should be lighter in color, but the prestained wood looked so nice that I didn't want to replace it. Besides, blue and gold look good together. Lapiz lazuli looks amazing. There is so much we do not know about La Couronne. Most of what is used comes from dubious sources and interpretations long after the ship was scrapped. I do have James Sephton's book, and have already read it once.

I am considering removing the kevels off the model and replacing them with smaller and better shaped versions. The Corel ones are crude and overly large. New staghorn kevels are in order. See examples below, taken from Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld. The more information I gather, the more changes and tweaks are made on the model.

The DeAgostini HMS Sovereign of the Seas will prove a challenge in parsing through all the research informations as wells as the modifications and enhancements. I'm looking forward to it!

 

[NMBROOK]

Kurt it may be the Mantua version that comes with the painting chart,Red,white,blue and gold,it looks far too much IMHO.
Yes Kevels,my understanding is that belaying pins didn't come about until the middle of the 17th century.

Kind Regards

Nigel

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Kurt it may be the Mantua version that comes with the painting chart,Red,white,blue and gold,it looks far too much IMHO.
Yes Kevels,my understanding is that belaying pins didn't come about until the middle of the 17th century.

Kind Regards

Nigel

Really? There are fife rails, and bulwark belaying pin racks on the Corel La Couronne, combined with kevels. Is this something I should re-design before things get too cluttered, perhaps? I assumed that the kevels were just there for the fore and main coarse sail sheet lines.

 

[NMBROOK]

Kurt
I think I read this in Spritsail to Topmast?by RC Anderson,This came about regarding SOTS in another forum when we were discussing Deagostini's representation.
I would thoroughly research this before doing anything.

Kind Regards

Nigel

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Kurt
I think I read this in Spritsail to Topmast?by RC Anderson,This came about regarding SOTS in another forum when we were discussing Deagostini's representation.
I would thoroughly research this before doing anything.

Kind Regards

Nigel

I'll check that book... steer me to any useful discussions you know of regarding SotS also!


PS: Nope. Didn't see any details in RC Anderson about the years in which delaying pins were introduced. It must have been elsewhere. With so many assorted lines besides heavy sheets and tacks, you would think there would be more information available as to where to belay them for early 17th century ships.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Time to have fun working on one of the small details. A lighted magnifier is necessary for all of this work. The boarding portal ladder and deck were fabricated and installed today. Small pieces of wood were snipped with small hobby scissors and sanded to length and shape with a small soft sanding block. The portal deck was made from thin mahogany. It is trimmed and supported with shapes pieces of walnut. The assembly went together quickly using CA glue. Left over railing binnacles made it look fancy. The roof was cut using the band saw, then filed to shape.

The ladder rungs are cut to length after using a micro scraper to shape the wood. For additional detail, bordering on ridiculous for this scale, the rungs are hollowed out a using a diamond burr with the Dremel rotary tool. Each rung was glued to the side of the ship down to the waterline. A little varnish brushed on all the new parts darkened them up nicely.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I wasn't quite happy with the size of the boarding portal deck, so I reworked it. It looks better now.