My best wishes for your birthday, Johann! I hope you have a great day celebrating with family and friends!
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La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
I wish you a very Happy Birthday Johann.
Enjoy your special day.
Enjoy your special day.
Alles Gute zum Geburtstag, Johann! 
Herzlichen Glückwunsch Johann, laß es Dir gut gehen und bleibe gesund
Happy birthday, dear Johann.
.
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2019
- Messages
- 491
- Points
- 423
Hello colleagues,
thank you again in advance for the kind birthday wishes and the recommendations regarding vision aids.
I am currently testing the simple solution: two inexpensive reading glasses (+2 and +3 diopters) combined with working without my progressive glasses (–2.25 dpt). I am still in the trial phase, but the different working distances seem promising and have so far made precise work noticeably easier.
And here the build log continues:
Topgallant halyard – Drisses de perroquet
I am still occupied with correcting and belaying the running rigging of the fore topsail yard and the fore yard.
Before moving one level higher to the rigging of the fore topgallant yard, it is necessary to clarify what the fore royal halyard — or royal halyards in general — would have looked like on a French corvette around 1830.
The monograph shows a simplified version: a continuous tye that transitions directly into the halyard without a tackle, led over a turning block at the waterway and belayed at the pin rail on the bulwark. This representation is functional but rather schematic.
However, while studying the photographic material of the contemporary original model, I noticed single blocks in the aft area of the topgallant trestletrees. No other plausible assignment for these blocks suggested itself except that they belonged to the topgallant halyard.
A review of contemporary literature confirmed this finding: In F. A. Coste’s Manuel de gréement (1829, pp. 120–131, “Drisses de perroquet”), exactly this variant is described among others.
There, the tye of the topgallant yard runs through a sheave hole in the topgallant mast, at the end of which a single block is stropped. The standing part of the halyard is fastened to an eye‑bolt at the ship’s side. The running part leads up to the single block at the tye, then back down over a turning block at the waterway, and finally to the pin rail at the bulwark, where it is belayed. The length of the rope is dimensioned so that the topgallant yard can be lowered down to the cap of the topmast.
For comparison: British practice of the same period placed the royal halyard tackle on the top — a different handling logic, but not applicable to French ships of this era.
Source: Rigging Period Ship Models – Lennarth Peterson, page 41
This makes it clear for my corvette that the single blocks visible on the original model in Paris belong to the French configuration of the royal halyard and not to any other part of the running rigging.
Here is a brief documentation and illustration of the findings regarding the royal halyard on the Paris original model of La Créole. As can clearly be seen, the halyard leads to the starboard side.
More to come soon …
thank you again in advance for the kind birthday wishes and the recommendations regarding vision aids.
I am currently testing the simple solution: two inexpensive reading glasses (+2 and +3 diopters) combined with working without my progressive glasses (–2.25 dpt). I am still in the trial phase, but the different working distances seem promising and have so far made precise work noticeably easier.
And here the build log continues:
Topgallant halyard – Drisses de perroquet
I am still occupied with correcting and belaying the running rigging of the fore topsail yard and the fore yard.
Before moving one level higher to the rigging of the fore topgallant yard, it is necessary to clarify what the fore royal halyard — or royal halyards in general — would have looked like on a French corvette around 1830.
The monograph shows a simplified version: a continuous tye that transitions directly into the halyard without a tackle, led over a turning block at the waterway and belayed at the pin rail on the bulwark. This representation is functional but rather schematic.
However, while studying the photographic material of the contemporary original model, I noticed single blocks in the aft area of the topgallant trestletrees. No other plausible assignment for these blocks suggested itself except that they belonged to the topgallant halyard.
A review of contemporary literature confirmed this finding: In F. A. Coste’s Manuel de gréement (1829, pp. 120–131, “Drisses de perroquet”), exactly this variant is described among others.
There, the tye of the topgallant yard runs through a sheave hole in the topgallant mast, at the end of which a single block is stropped. The standing part of the halyard is fastened to an eye‑bolt at the ship’s side. The running part leads up to the single block at the tye, then back down over a turning block at the waterway, and finally to the pin rail at the bulwark, where it is belayed. The length of the rope is dimensioned so that the topgallant yard can be lowered down to the cap of the topmast.
For comparison: British practice of the same period placed the royal halyard tackle on the top — a different handling logic, but not applicable to French ships of this era.
Source: Rigging Period Ship Models – Lennarth Peterson, page 41
This makes it clear for my corvette that the single blocks visible on the original model in Paris belong to the French configuration of the royal halyard and not to any other part of the running rigging.
Here is a brief documentation and illustration of the findings regarding the royal halyard on the Paris original model of La Créole. As can clearly be seen, the halyard leads to the starboard side.
More to come soon …
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2019
- Messages
- 491
- Points
- 423
Attaching the Fore Topgallant Yard
As announced, work on the foremast has now moved up a level to the fore topgallant yard. Following the theoretical planning, the practical implementation on the model is now underway.
Particular attention was paid to tying the halyard block to the rigging: Authentic flat seizings were used here to create a stable and historically accurate connection. The remaining running rigging of the topgallant yard – lifts, braces, and clewlines – has already been provisionally attached. The final challenge now is to guide these lines past the standing rigging to their respective belaying points without any collisions.
Attached are a few pictures showing the progress of the fore topgallant yard rigging:
To be continued...
As announced, work on the foremast has now moved up a level to the fore topgallant yard. Following the theoretical planning, the practical implementation on the model is now underway.
Particular attention was paid to tying the halyard block to the rigging: Authentic flat seizings were used here to create a stable and historically accurate connection. The remaining running rigging of the topgallant yard – lifts, braces, and clewlines – has already been provisionally attached. The final challenge now is to guide these lines past the standing rigging to their respective belaying points without any collisions.
Attached are a few pictures showing the progress of the fore topgallant yard rigging:
To be continued...
Good morning Johann. There are not enough superlatives to describe your work. I missed your birthday so a very belated Happy Birthday. Cheers Grant
Hi Johann! I'm loving your posts as usual. Great modeling and great photography!
I noticed in the enlarged circular inset in the below picture that the cuntlines (a proper nautical term) of your tan-ish laid running rigging line are darker than the outer face of the line which stands proud. This is the most accurate scale portrayal of used hemp cordage I've ever seen. How did you achieve it? Is the line lightly dyed after laying the line up and the dye simply stains the cordage unevenly, settling in the cuntline? Is it not dyed, but rather stained in some fashion with an oil-based stain? It's a great effect. I'd like to learn how it's done.
I also noticed that your line is properly right-hand laid. May I ask your source for left hand thread to lay up right hand cordage?
I noticed in the enlarged circular inset in the below picture that the cuntlines (a proper nautical term) of your tan-ish laid running rigging line are darker than the outer face of the line which stands proud. This is the most accurate scale portrayal of used hemp cordage I've ever seen. How did you achieve it? Is the line lightly dyed after laying the line up and the dye simply stains the cordage unevenly, settling in the cuntline? Is it not dyed, but rather stained in some fashion with an oil-based stain? It's a great effect. I'd like to learn how it's done.
I also noticed that your line is properly right-hand laid. May I ask your source for left hand thread to lay up right hand cordage?
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2019
- Messages
- 491
- Points
- 423
@GrantTyler
Thank you all for your interest and kind comments, and thank you to everyone for the likes.
@KMSvideo
Ďakujem vám všetkým za váš záujem a milý komentár.
@Bob Cleek
Thanks, Bob,
for your interest and for your positive feedback on my work. I didn’t take any special measures regarding the the small grooves between the strands of a rope (traditionally called cuntlines in old maritime terminology). That effect simply comes from the Japanese silk thread I use for making my ropes. Silk behaves very much like scaled‑down hemp, so the fine and smooth fibres naturally make the keepen appear more pronounced.
I also checked the base material again: the silk thread I use is actually Z‑lay (right‑handed), not S‑lay, as you had assumed.
Thank you all for your interest and kind comments, and thank you to everyone for the likes.
@KMSvideo
Ďakujem vám všetkým za váš záujem a milý komentár.
@Bob Cleek
Thanks, Bob,
for your interest and for your positive feedback on my work. I didn’t take any special measures regarding the the small grooves between the strands of a rope (traditionally called cuntlines in old maritime terminology). That effect simply comes from the Japanese silk thread I use for making my ropes. Silk behaves very much like scaled‑down hemp, so the fine and smooth fibres naturally make the keepen appear more pronounced.
I also checked the base material again: the silk thread I use is actually Z‑lay (right‑handed), not S‑lay, as you had assumed.
Bob, you should watch your language a bit. I translated “cuntlines” into Dutch and German—shame on you.
Arrrgh! Too much ship modeling and we start talking like pirates!
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2019
- Messages
- 491
- Points
- 423
Continued: Fore topgallant yard – Fore topgallant halyard – Drisse de petit perroquet
In previous posts, I reported on my research into the topgallant halyards. In connection with the installation of the fore topgallant halyard, it was still necessary to clarify how the upright part was attached to the outer hull.
On the original model of the La Créole in the Paris Museum, the contemporary model maker knotted the standing parts of the topgallant halyards (Drisse de vergue perroquet) to the backstay fittings – a solution I consider a simplification.
Since no clear information on how these standing parts were attached can be found in contemporary technical literature or in the usual sources, I opted for a spliced hook. This method is technically plausible, practical, and documented for comparable applications of the time. A similar principle can also be found in the replica of the French cutter La Renard 1812.
For the practical implementation on the model, I once again tried my hand at splicing a 0.35mm diameter rope.
After some initial practice, it worked reliably again – the old saying "practice makes perfect" proved true once more.
The following image shows the spliced hook in detail.
The next image shows how the running end of the fore topgallant halyard leads over the right turning block to the belaying point on the bulwark.
The standing end was hooked into an eyebolt behind the fore topmast backstay.
The last image finally shows the fore topgallant yard with the single block of the topgallant halyard.
After securing the sheets, halyards, and attaching the fore topgallant halyards, the next step is to set the fore royal yard.
Until next time…
In previous posts, I reported on my research into the topgallant halyards. In connection with the installation of the fore topgallant halyard, it was still necessary to clarify how the upright part was attached to the outer hull.
On the original model of the La Créole in the Paris Museum, the contemporary model maker knotted the standing parts of the topgallant halyards (Drisse de vergue perroquet) to the backstay fittings – a solution I consider a simplification.
Since no clear information on how these standing parts were attached can be found in contemporary technical literature or in the usual sources, I opted for a spliced hook. This method is technically plausible, practical, and documented for comparable applications of the time. A similar principle can also be found in the replica of the French cutter La Renard 1812.
For the practical implementation on the model, I once again tried my hand at splicing a 0.35mm diameter rope.
After some initial practice, it worked reliably again – the old saying "practice makes perfect" proved true once more.
The following image shows the spliced hook in detail.
The next image shows how the running end of the fore topgallant halyard leads over the right turning block to the belaying point on the bulwark.
The standing end was hooked into an eyebolt behind the fore topmast backstay.
The last image finally shows the fore topgallant yard with the single block of the topgallant halyard.
After securing the sheets, halyards, and attaching the fore topgallant halyards, the next step is to set the fore royal yard.
Until next time…
My respect for your original splice in the 3,5 mm thread, Johann. And as always very instructive pictures of your work.
Regards, Petert
Your wonderful work continues to amaze me every time.