La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette

Hi Everyone, I have not gone just hovering in the background and watching. Wow, Archjofa you are very good at your model building. I am a complete amateur but willing myself like crazy to do what you are doing. It gives me butterflies just thinking about it.
I have been watching your forum page here and gee, I look at those materials for the ropes (Sheets) and I think where the heck I am going to get that stuff from in Australia? Maybe someone may suggest from where.
Your rope work intrigues me, and I have wonderful thoughts of doing the bindings if I ever get that far. Your model and also many others on this forum make the saliva just ooze from the mouth ( In a literary fashion of course)Redface:cool:Speechless
 
@GaryA
@Justin tillman
Thank you for the kind words, that inspires and motivates.

I would also like to thank everyone else for the many LIKES.

Continuation: Guiding the bowlines for the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail
Here I will show the implementation of the detail for the model of La Créole on a scrap part, as it will be put on later. Next to it is the version of the previous version.
DSC02259.jpg

As already mentioned, I need an analogous part for the deflection of the bowlines of the mizzen royal sail and the braces of the mizzen royal yard, which is then to be mounted in the rear area of the main topgallant cross trees.
Theoretically, I should now be done with the running rigging and have recorded all the blocks that are needed without sails. Many blocks are already attached to the individual yards with the corresponding ropes, as far as it makes sense.
Before I take the corvette out of "exile" (dust cover), I will go through all the rigging again and clean the workroom of dust. Then I can finally start with the final rigging.

To be continued...
 
archjofo said:
@GaryA
@Justin tillman
Thank you for the kind words, that inspires and motivates.

I would also like to thank everyone else for the many LIKES.

Continuation: Guiding the bowlines for the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail
Here I will show the implementation of the detail for the model of La Créole on a scrap part, as it will be put on later. Next to it is the version of the previous version.
View attachment 500384

As already mentioned, I need an analogous part for the deflection of the bowlines of the mizzen royal sail and the braces of the mizzen royal yard, which is then to be mounted in the rear area of the main topgallant cross trees.
Theoretically, I should now be done with the running rigging and have recorded all the blocks that are needed without sails. Many blocks are already attached to the individual yards with the corresponding ropes, as far as it makes sense.
Before I take the corvette out of "exile" (dust cover), I will go through all the rigging again and clean the workroom of dust. Then I can finally start with the final rigging.

To be continued...
Click to expand...
Luckily you found the solution just in time, Johann. It looks very nice. Looking forward to your next steps.
Regards, Peter
 
@Peter Voogt
Hello Peter,
Thank you for your kind words and here is the last chapter.

Thank you also to everyone for the LIKES.

Preparing the final rigging

I cleaned up my small basement shipyard as much as I could and took the little French girl out of her "exile" (dust cover). She was then positioned on my height-adjustable platform so that she could be accessed from two sides for rigging, as far as space allowed.

It has been a long time since I did the final rigging of a model ship (over three decades). So I tried to refresh my modest knowledge of rigging work for the running rigging of sailing ship models, to acquire new knowledge about it and to think about the further process.

I had already raised the question in various forums about which direction and order the model should preferably be rigged in? There was a mixed opinion about when to start rigging, whether at the front or the back. However, everyone agreed that rigging should be done from the bottom up. Contemporary works note that the usual rigging process began with the bowsprit.
In order to have fewer disruptions caused by ropes that have already been set, I follow the philosophy of starting from the beginning and then working yard by yard from bottom to top and from belaying point to belaying point.
For belaying pins and cleats, I use a belaying needle that I had used as a boy when building the "Adler von Lübeck". I made this according to Graupner's instructions from a steel knitting needle that is around 27 cm long and has a handle and is slightly bent at the other end over a length of around 10 mm. I forged out the front end of the bent part and shaped it accordingly with a file. Close to the filed front edge, I drilled a hole with a diameter of 0.5 mm, similar to the eye of a needle.
Many people will certainly know that Karl Heinz Marquardt was responsible for the plan processing for Graupner's "Adler von Lübeck" and was involved in the development of the kit. In this respect, I assume that the description for making this belaying needle also comes from him or was suggested by him. He was also an excellent model maker. What I often see is that many model makers mainly use hooks or tweezers for belaying. However, I have managed very well with my homemade belaying needle so far, as the rope can be guided safely and tightly even in hard-to-reach areas. Therefore, I will continue to use it, including for this model.

With the next picture, I want to illustrate how this belaying needle is basically used.
DSC07752.jpg

Following the recommendations of fellow model makers, I also got myself a pair of Castroviejo micro scissors in order to sensibly expand my rigging equipment.
In the following picture I show a compilation of my most important tools for rigging:
DSC02272.jpg

-Belaying needle
-Stand for thread rolls

-Superglue with cannula (ø 0.3 mm)
-Hollow spike, ø 1.2 mm and ø 0.8 mm for splicing
-Micro scissors according to Castroviejo
-Thread scissors, straight and curved
-Tweezers, straight, curved and offset
-Scalpel
-Shoemaker's wax for "sailor's thread"

This article heralds the last chapter of the model building of the French corvette "La Creole" on the long road to the goal. Once again I would like to thank my many companions, with the hope that they will get through the final stretch with me.

So, see you soon...
 
@Steef66
@Herman

I am very grateful for your interest and the nice comments.
I would also like to thank everyone else for the LIKES.

Addition: Securing the ropes of the running rigging with a belaying needle
It is obvious to me how the last loop is to be guided when securing the ropes of the running rigging with a belaying needle. However, this is not clear from my previous illustration on this subject.

A model maker colleague asked a question on this.
In this respect, I would also like to explain this step here with this additional explanation:
Belegnadel.jpg

As can be seen in Fig. 1, the rope can be guided under the last loop with the belaying needle. In the second step, the rope is then unthreaded by pulling it back, if necessary with the help of tweezers in hard-to-reach places. Fig. 3 shows that the belaying needle can simply be pulled out of the loop by tightening the rope.

I hope I have explained it clearly enough. For me, these processes are easy to carry out, as I have already done them many times.
 
Witaj
Bardzo ciekawe narzędzie do nakładania lin na nagle Johanie. A ja się tak męczyłem. Pozdrawiam Mirka
 
archjofo said:
@Peter Voogt
Hello Peter,
Thank you for your kind words and here is the last chapter.

Thank you also to everyone for the LIKES.

Preparing the final rigging

I cleaned up my small basement shipyard as much as I could and took the little French girl out of her "exile" (dust cover). She was then positioned on my height-adjustable platform so that she could be accessed from two sides for rigging, as far as space allowed.

It has been a long time since I did the final rigging of a model ship (over three decades). So I tried to refresh my modest knowledge of rigging work for the running rigging of sailing ship models, to acquire new knowledge about it and to think about the further process.

I had already raised the question in various forums about which direction and order the model should preferably be rigged in? There was a mixed opinion about when to start rigging, whether at the front or the back. However, everyone agreed that rigging should be done from the bottom up. Contemporary works note that the usual rigging process began with the bowsprit.
In order to have fewer disruptions caused by ropes that have already been set, I follow the philosophy of starting from the beginning and then working yard by yard from bottom to top and from belaying point to belaying point.
For belaying pins and cleats, I use a belaying needle that I had used as a boy when building the "Adler von Lübeck". I made this according to Graupner's instructions from a steel knitting needle that is around 27 cm long and has a handle and is slightly bent at the other end over a length of around 10 mm. I forged out the front end of the bent part and shaped it accordingly with a file. Close to the filed front edge, I drilled a hole with a diameter of 0.5 mm, similar to the eye of a needle.
Many people will certainly know that Karl Heinz Marquardt was responsible for the plan processing for Graupner's "Adler von Lübeck" and was involved in the development of the kit. In this respect, I assume that the description for making this belaying needle also comes from him or was suggested by him. He was also an excellent model maker. What I often see is that many model makers mainly use hooks or tweezers for belaying. However, I have managed very well with my homemade belaying needle so far, as the rope can be guided safely and tightly even in hard-to-reach areas. Therefore, I will continue to use it, including for this model.

With the next picture, I want to illustrate how this belaying needle is basically used.
View attachment 502117

Following the recommendations of fellow model makers, I also got myself a pair of Castroviejo micro scissors in order to sensibly expand my rigging equipment.
In the following picture I show a compilation of my most important tools for rigging:
View attachment 502116

-Belaying needle
-Stand for thread rolls

-Superglue with cannula (ø 0.3 mm)
-Hollow spike, ø 1.2 mm and ø 0.8 mm for splicing
-Micro scissors according to Castroviejo
-Thread scissors, straight and curved
-Tweezers, straight, curved and offset
-Scalpel
-Shoemaker's wax for "sailor's thread"

This article heralds the last chapter of the model building of the French corvette "La Creole" on the long road to the goal. Once again I would like to thank my many companions, with the hope that they will get through the final stretch with me.

So, see you soon...
Click to expand...
Good afternoon. Very clever. I must make myself one. Thanks for sharing. Cheers Grant
 
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