La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette

[archjofo]

Dzień dobry Mirku,
miło, że widzisz to tak samo jak ja.
Ale nie smarowałem lin smołą. Mają kolor włóczki.

Serdeczne pozdrowienia
Johann

Hello Mirek,
I'm glad you see it the same way I do.
But I didn't tar the ropes. They're the same color as the yarn.

Best regards,
Johann

 

[GaryA]

@Steef66
@Dubz Modelling World
@Smithy
@Oktay Yaylacıkoral tay
@Hoss6262
@Richie

Hello,
First of all, I would like to thank you for your interest in my model building.
Many thanks also to everyone else for the LIKES.

Let's continue with a small detail:

Continued: Running Rigging - Seizings
Before I continued rigging my French corvette, here the lifts of the fore yard, I asked myself the fundamental question of how and with what I should perform the required seizing of the running rigging.

In my search for an example of original rigging, I found what I was looking for in the replica of the L'Hermione. This appears to be the fore topsail halyard, a similar situation to the one used to attach the tackles for the lifts. As discussed several times in another forum, the running rigging was also lightly tarred, as was the spun yarn for the seizing.
In the following picture, I have compared three possible seizings for my model with the example from the L'Hermione.
Accordingly, I'll opt for the top option, as I believe it's closest to the original.
View attachment 517268

As already mentioned with the standing rigging, the need for thimbles for a sailing ship model is enormous. This, of course, also applies to the running rigging. Therefore, I'll have to make some more thimbles.

To be continued...

Hi Archjofo,
Do you turn up the Thimbles on a metal lathe, and what material do you use?
And you may have mentioned, but I cannot find out how you make them.

 

[archjofo]

@GaryA
Hello,
Thank you in advance for your interest in my construction report.
I made the thimbles from brass tubes, as you can see here: LINK

 

[archjofo]

Continuation: Fore yard - Lifts / Balancine
I have already reported in detail on the design and attachment of the La Créole's lower yard lifts in a few previous posts.

For their final installation, the only remaining question was how long the lift tackles should be to enable the required maneuvers of these yards.
Despite intensive research, I was unable to find any decisive information on this. Accordingly, I based my work on the description in Jean Boudriot's monograph on La Créole.

For the tackles I had already prepared some time ago, all I had to do was pull the ropes through the swivel hooks and attach the seizings.
The tackles were then attached to the channels using eyebolts. I secured the lanyards, which were routed over redirect blocks, to the inside of the bulwark, as shown in the following photo.


Next comes the attachment of the sheets and tacks for the fore yard, which I still have to make as so-called Grelins (in English, cablet: left-handed). Whether I make them only as left-handed hawsers or actually as a cablet is still open. With a diameter of approximately 0.6 mm for the model, the rope would probably be too stiff as a cablet, which I discovered in my initial tests.
But more on that soon...

 

[Bob Cleek]

For their final installation, the only remaining question was how long the lift tackles should be to enable the required maneuvers of these yards.
Despite intensive researIn the

 

[Alexander74]

Continuation: Fore yard - Lifts / Balancine
I have already reported in detail on the design and attachment of the La Créole's lower yard lifts in a few previous posts.

For their final installation, the only remaining question was how long the lift tackles should be to enable the required maneuvers of these yards.
Despite intensive research, I was unable to find any decisive information on this. Accordingly, I based my work on the description in Jean Boudriot's monograph on La Créole.
View attachment 517866
For the tackles I had already prepared some time ago, all I had to do was pull the ropes through the swivel hooks and attach the seizings.View attachment 517867
The tackles were then attached to the channels using eyebolts. I secured the lanyards, which were routed over redirect blocks, to the inside of the bulwark, as shown in the following photo.
View attachment 517868

Next comes the attachment of the sheets and tacks for the fore yard, which I still have to make as so-called Grelins (in English, cablet: left-handed). Whether I make them only as left-handed hawsers or actually as a cablet is still open. With a diameter of approximately 0.6 mm for the model, the rope would probably be too stiff as a cablet, which I discovered in my initial tests.
But more on that soon...

Johann, good day. Please tell me about this product around the mast. I am interested in the manufacturing process. Maybe it has already been made, then tell me where I can see it. Thank you

 

[Bob Cleek]

Continuation: Fore yard - Lifts / Balancine
I have already reported in detail on the design and attachment of the La Créole's lower yard lifts in a few previous posts.

For their final installation, the only remaining question was how long the lift tackles should be to enable the required maneuvers of these yards.
Despite intensive research, I was unable to find any decisive information on this. Accordingly, I based my work on the description in Jean Boudriot's monograph on La Créole.
View attachment 517866

Unless I misunderstood your question, I believe that the lift tackles as indicated above should be long enough to accommodate cockbilling the yard as high as may be desired without two-blocking the tackle. It would seem from the illustration that Mr. Boudriot's drawing may be about right, but the easiest way to determine how long you want the tackle is to rig it up and see how long the tackle has to be to fully cockbill the yard.

 

[archjofo]

Johann, good day. Please tell me about this product around the mast. I am interested in the manufacturing process. Maybe it has already been made, then tell me where I can see it. Thank you
View attachment 517872

Hello Alexander,
I described the process of making the spider band in more detail in Model Ship World. So, please refer to this LINK.
I hope it works.
If it doesn't, please get in touch again.

 

[archjofo]

Hi Bob,
You understood the question correctly. I think Boudriot is right.

 

[GIG1810]

Hello Johann,
I wish you continued success and am very pleased with your building report.

I will continue to watch and be amazed.

Best regards
Günter

 

[archjofo]

@Alexander74
@Bobby K.
@GIG1810
Hello,
Thank you for your interest.

Continuation: Foresail – Sheets and Tacks
Before I began attaching the sheets and tacks for the fore sail, I made a few more attempts at making the corresponding ropes, as shown in the following picture.

As already described several times, the sheets and tacks for the foresail and mainsail of this corvette were made of so-called grelins (cable less than 12 French inches thick).
According to Boudriot's monograph, the diameters of the sheets for the foresail are 30 mm (1:48: ø 0.63 mm) and for the tacks are 23 mm (1:48: ø 0.48 mm). Due to the yarn used, the diameters for the model can only be approximated as closely as possible, for example, 2 x 3 r x 3 l with YLI Japanese silk yarn, which results in a diameter of 0.62 mm. This isn't always as accurate as in the example given here.
In this context, I noticed in the monograph that the topsail sheets are thicker than those of the lower sails. The fore topsail sheet therefore has a diameter of 34 mm.

After clarifying this matter, which I initially suspected was a mix-up, Gerard Delacroix kindly explained to me that this deviation is quite normal. He referred to "Manuel de gréement par F.-A. Costé, Paris 1829." According to this, these ropes are calculated according to a specific ratio based on the ship's dimensions. The ratio of the sheets for the topsail to the fore topsail is 0.065/0.075.
From a purely visual perspective, I believe the left-handed rope would be the better result for the model, as the structure is clearly visible from a normal viewing distance, which isn't as noticeable with the cable-laid rope. But knowing that the cable-laid ropes are closer to the original doesn't make this decision any easier.

To be continued...

 

[archjofo]

Continuation: Fore yard – Sheets and Tacks / Écoutes et amures
After some back and forth, I finally decided on the cable version and have now attached the sheets and tacks on the starboard side.

For the model cable version, I tried to lay the required ropes as loosely as possible. This resulted in a cable that wasn't too stiff.

The first picture shows the arrangement of the sheet, tack, and clew line blocks, which are connected by toggles, as I won't be attaching any sails.

The next picture shows the route of the port fore tack on the boomkin with shoulder block. The standing part is protected against chafing in the front area.


The standing part of the fore sheet, as can be seen in the last picture, is also protected against chafing in the rear area. The fore sheet runs over a sheave in the ship's side for securing to a cleat.


To be continued...

 

[Mirek]

Witaj
Johanie, ręce same składają się do oklasków praca na najwyższym poziomie . Pozdrawiam Mirek

 

[serikoff]

Perfect, that's all I can say

 

[dockattner]

I rarely post here Johann because there are only so many superlatives that can be shared. But I do like to visit with each new post just to see someone accomplishing what I think might be beyond the scope of scale ship building. A joy to see your work, my friend.

 

[Peter Voogt]

Continuation: Fore yard – Sheets and Tacks / Écoutes et amures
After some back and forth, I finally decided on the cable version and have now attached the sheets and tacks on the starboard side.

For the model cable version, I tried to lay the required ropes as loosely as possible. This resulted in a cable that wasn't too stiff.

The first picture shows the arrangement of the sheet, tack, and clew line blocks, which are connected by toggles, as I won't be attaching any sails.
View attachment 518869
The next picture shows the route of the port fore tack on the boomkin with shoulder block. The standing part is protected against chafing in the front area.
View attachment 518870

The standing part of the fore sheet, as can be seen in the last picture, is also protected against chafing in the rear area. The fore sheet runs over a sheave in the ship's side for securing to a cleat.
View attachment 518871

To be continued...

Like Paul wrote above I also didn’t make a comment on all of your post of the rigging. With every new post I enjoyed watching your adding of the ropes and attached elements on the model. And your well-maintained photos with enlargements of the details. All the pre work on your ropes is now paying off. My great respect for your eye for details!
Regards, Peter