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La Renommee 1/48th Scale

Hi Chris, it's great to see that you've started building L'Amarante's big sister. La Renommee is a fantastic frigate and a great project. As we discussed previously, I think it was the right decision, and with Patrik's frame drawings, it's a lot easier.
 
Thanks Paul and Tobias - thanks to the forums and others who have built this ship I have a good idea how to proceed. As a friend told me so much of this construction involves careful study and visualization of the plans thinking several steps ahead before lifting a tool. Thats one of the things I love the most about scratch building.
 
Depends on the author of the Monograph - Boudriot and Lemineur do not illustrate full frames. Delacroix does - which still requires making copies of them, tracing or drafting during construction.

I had the advantage of one of my friends in the French forum share the frames for Renommee he uploaded into pdf form as full frames which was a huge advantage. I could print the frames with ease on my home computer which sped up the process considerably.
 
CLB said:
Depends on the author of the Monograph - Boudriot and Lemineur do not illustrate full frames. Delacroix does - which still requires making copies of them, tracing or drafting during construction.

I had the advantage of one of my friends in the French forum share the frames for Renommee he uploaded into pdf form as full frames which was a huge advantage. I could print the frames with ease on my home computer which sped up the process considerably.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Chris. I was asking more specifically about Boudriot's La Renommee. I have the monograph and know he draws half frames. I was wondering if there were full frame drawings commercially available.
 
Here's a simple idea I thought may be helpful - borrowed from a French site I reference - a frame calibrated ruler. This makes the creation of a construction site and many other applications easier. Basically you take the lines off the frame profile drawing and attach it with double sided tape to a yard stick. Brilliant !

Frame Calibratred Ruler.jpg

Frame Calibrated Ruler 2.jpg
 
Hi Chris,

Just trying to learn for my own future application...
What 'line' are you using for the upper board? For my stern section I used maximum breadth but some books endorse using a gun deck. It looks like you used the water line (?) which was my original plan but then for some reason I changed my mind.
Is there a best practice in this regard?
 
Thanks so much Jeff and Brad. Working on Hawse Timbers and the installation of frame 1 - hopefully an update soon
 
Plugging away at the hawse timbers - here they are after a few attempts. Pencil marks are there for waterline reference. I believe I need to install frame 1 first and then hope they will fit the keel and frame 1 after some adjustments - otherwise do them over yet again !



I am on the fence with nailing the frames with bolts simulated with 22 gauge square brass wire which is the most common way to do it. I'm just not sure if I like the appearance. I have still not decided whether or not the hull will have openings as the lines of this ship are so beautiful I may want to leave the frames intact which certainly is one reason not to bother with the bolts. I could change my mind though. Any opinions are welcome.

Hawse Timbers !.jpg

Hawse Timbers 2.jpg

Frame Nailing.jpg
 
This is nice work on a very challenging construction!

RE: bolts. Tell us more about your vision for the ship. Are you building out the interior? Is that why you are considering frame cut-outs? One side only?
 
Thanks Paul - hope you're enjoying your vacation. I am heading out this Sunday for mine as well.

In terms of my vision, it changes. I chose 1/48 scale because I want the option, no matter how slim the chance will be, to rig later and in 1/36 it would not be possible. While I do want to build out the interior to some degree, I am unsure of cut outs as they really interrupt the beautiful lines of the frigate. So I am undecided here - hence my decision regarding the bolts. I will give them another go with nickel wire to see if I like the appearance better than brass.

I am a huge fan of Padaon's approach to his craft. His Nereide is spectacular. His approach to aging is his signature. I would not try to imitate it, thats for sure. However, what elements he chooses to construct and how he displays his ships I find really interesting. He's a true artist.
 
I agree with you that there are reasons to question the esthetic of the bright brass bolts. If they could be blackened in situ it would look better but that is difficult. Casey's will stain regardless of how careful you are (though Giampy does it that way after first sealing the wood). I've heard liver of sulfur can be used without the danger of staining the surrounding wood, but I have no personal experience with it.

On the Kingfisher I used copper bolts and they are less 'visible' and seem more eager to naturally darken. But is square copper stock even available?
 
dockattner said:
I agree with you that there are reasons to question the esthetic of the bright brass bolts. If they could be blackened in situ it would look better but that is difficult. Casey's will stain regardless of how careful you are (though Giampy does it that way after first sealing the wood). I've heard liver of sulfur can be used without the danger of staining the surrounding wood, but I have no personal experience with it.

On the Kingfisher I used copper bolts and they are less 'visible' and seem more eager to naturally darken. But is square copper stock even available?
Click to expand...
try Amati nails that are square-headed.Frank
 
Yup this place has square copper, silver, gold, brass etc all in half hard which is much easier to work with than soft for our purposes. I just placed an order for nickel (which is made up of mostly copper) and will give it a try when I get back from vacation

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