Oehhh thats going much quicker than my 1100 nails which I have to shape with cup burrs.
LE COUREUR - french Lugger 1776 - POF kit from CAF in 1:48 by Uwe
Apropos kill drill, do you have any experience decapitating a drill so the bastards head breaks off inside the skin? I wonder (fear) if that should happen if it is possible to get the drill bit out without messing up the surface around the hole with an ugly result?
Hope and pray !!!
It happened some days ago ..... and .... the top of the drill ist still inside the timber
No way to bring it out - could not get the broken end of the drill with the tweezers etc. so I tried and pressed it partly inside (seems, that I killed the drill after finishing the drilling and pulled the drill out - so the drill hole was deep enough)
maybe possible with a small dott of superglue between the broken drill and a nail head (or something similar - but not with simple pulling out - better is with reverse spin .....
Finally I had very good results related to lifetime / endurance with the simple Proxxon drills HSS-MICRO - they are available with 0,5mm
My father was a wise man, he told me: Der Horizont ist weit und Geduld ist eine Tugend, the horizon is far away and patience is a virtue. Could it be helpful to you?
KI
A master at work !
My friend, "quicker" ?!?!
in the meantime I am not sure if it is really less work, compared with your method of shaping the heads with burrs.
You : -> cut the heads - one burr - second burr - FINISH - no sanding any more, because you would destroy your heads
Me : -> cut the heads - file the head flush with the planking - afterwards partly sanding when I have to remove some new scratches on the wooden surface
Somehow in average I needed 1 hour total work for one row (vertical alongside a frame) - for the bow and stern more
Just kidding: Nailing the hull planking is a lot of additional work - but in my opnion worth the time and energy (and broken drills)
Speed:
Unfortunately I finished only one side - and it is the side with much less planking length, because of the windows - so I guess I have now appr. 600 nails made
So the full planked side of the hull is still waiting - another 1.000 nails - UPPPPPPS
Now I have to forecast the number of drills I need
The Ferrari has a bumper sticker: Thanks UWE
I can hear you all as I have the same troubles removing the broken drill part, Ouch... Maybe...again...hypothetically...I have not tried... before start boring the hole squeeze the drillbit between the soapy fingers, this should remove additional friction???
One thing I've learned, do not to use those circuit board drill bits. Look like they only twisted wire. They are good for other drilling job...
Only jobber's drill bits
Yep, your father was a wise man
Seems like we all have a great stash of drill bit sets were all the small drills are missing 
.
The only thing is that the drill bit sets are cheaper then the single small size drills, so my stash is growing and growing, think I have plenty 1 mm drill bits a untill my retirement.
, which is still long long long time away.
.The only thing is that the drill bit sets are cheaper then the single small size drills, so my stash is growing and growing, think I have plenty 1 mm drill bits a untill my retirement.
, which is still long long long time away.
It is hard to find here in the US the mm (micro) drill bit or set. Imm is not too bad, but the range from 0.3 to 0.5 (specifically 0.5) is very hard. Uve @Uwek mention, the ones from Proxxon and Busch are available and they are great but not long enough for some work, but a 0.5mm drill bit is hard to find.
I use these, set of 20 start at 0,3 up to 1,6. It is basic quality but good enough.
If you want I can order some and send them to you by mail.
HBM 20 Delige HSS Borenset 0,3 - 1,6mm
Wanneer je vaak kleinere gaten boort, is deze HBM twintig delige HSS boren set van 0,3 tot 1,6 mm een goede keuze. De set wordt geleverd in een kunstst...
www.hbm-machines.com
Many thanks, Mon Amie. I have a good stock from 0.6 and up. I just need 0.5mm and down to 0.3. Bat many thanks for your offer.
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
For model railroading and other hobbies, I use my tiny drill bit set. They are numbered by size, not listed by diameter.
The smallest I have is a size 80, about 0.35 MM, very tiny small drill bit and they do break often.
Numbered drill are easy to order in US from hobby stores online.
The smallest I have is a size 80, about 0.35 MM, very tiny small drill bit and they do break often.
Numbered drill are easy to order in US from hobby stores online.
For the 0,5mm I really can recommend the Proxxon Micromot 28 864 HSS drills
There are 3 drills in one box - costs are appr. 4 to 5 Euro per box
There are 3 drills in one box - costs are appr. 4 to 5 Euro per box
Exactly Uwe, Ialso use them and am vary satisfied with them.
What I forgot to show last time is the photo showing the complete nailed hull - to get an impression and overview of the appearance on the model.
with the total view the nails are not looking oversized (in my opinion)
with the total view the nails are not looking oversized (in my opinion)
based on the information and the hint by our friend @Maarten in his building log of his HMS Alert, I tried also to clean the holes after drilling with a steel brush.
I adopted the idea and used my Proxxon with the brush with low speed
the holes after drilling - the dust was already blown away
after brushing
I adopted the idea and used my Proxxon with the brush with low speed
the holes after drilling - the dust was already blown away
after brushing
I have a question Uwe: When I questioned if the nails should really be in one straight row from gunwale to keel you said, if I'm not mistaken, that it would be redundant to have 2 rows of nails for the futtock overlaps. Obviously you have at a later stage changed your mind. Why?
