LE COUREUR - french Lugger 1776 - POF kit from CAF in 1:48 by Uwe

We must note, that its location is incompatible with the operation of the two starboard side guns: unless the ship´s boat is moved or set in-tow behind the vessel
I have read that even bigger warships usually had boats towed astern when going into action. Not only to free space on the deck but also to reduce the possibility of the boats being damaged by gunfire and to avoid it becoming a major source of dangerous splinters. I also assume it must have been convenient to have the boat already at sea when it was suddenly needed.
Probably smaller warships like Le Coureur may even have towed the boat most of the time (even though the Admiralty, at least for British ships, had requested that all vessels should hoist their boats inboard while making a passage rather than towing them)
 
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I have read that even bigger warships usually had boats towed astern when going into action. Not only to free space on the deck but also to reduce the possibility of the boats being damaged by gunfire and to avoid it becoming a major source of dangerous splinters. I also assume it must have been convenient to have the boat already at sea when it was suddenly needed.
Probably smaller warships like Le Coureur may even have towed the boat most of the time (even though the Admiralty, at least for British ships, had requested that all vessels should hoist their boats inboard while making a passage rather than towing them)
Latest during action they put the boat(s) into water and towed them.
In minimum one boat the "goodies" and value stuff of the captain were stored, in this way this stuff was secured and safe during the action.
Also the enemy did not want to hit the boats, because this was part of the breeze money.
So -> No shooting towards the towed boats!
 
The compass cabinet or binnacle is also included in the kit of the Le Coureur

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and the location in front of the rudder tiller - please be aware, that it is exactly over the oven of the captain
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These are the well prepared wooden parts of the CAF-kit
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To the top of binnacle ventilation R1-9 I added a small part of a brass tube - in my opinion it is making more sense than to have it directly on the wooden board
For comparison of the size my usual tooth-pick in front
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The lower part of the backside is not very much important - it will be covered by the decks-lighthouse, so not visible
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Dry-fitting on the deck - one side of the binnacle feet still have to be shortened, so that the binnacle is standing in the same angle like the lighthouse
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Now also the angle is fitting
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The binnacle is located directly over the oven (and the hole, which drilled already (too early) for the chimney)

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Technically both on the same place at the same time is not possible !!!

=> my argumentation will be like this:
During sailing the binnacle is installed and tackled towards the deck - so the chimney for captains oven is dismantled - he has to freeze and wear a second pait of socks during this time
In harbour the seaman move the binnacle to the side, because it is not necessary in that moment and the chimney will be installed, so that the captain can sit in a warm captains room.......

There is every time a story behind ;)
 
The next parts for finalizing the structures on the deck are the bitts, or bow sprit and jigger boom partners

for this the bowsprit and the boom have to be sanded partly octagonal

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The boom aft

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and also the same principle fore at the stern for the bowsprit - BTW: I used the here the round material included in the kit and adjusted only the part close to the ship with sanding an octagonal cross-section - the overall rest of the boom and bowspri I will do much later when I praper the masts and spars - they are used in moment only for the dimension and adjustments of the partners installed at the deck

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To get an impression of the overall length of the finished ship model .....

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Latest during action they put the boat(s) into water and towed them.
In minimum one boat the "goodies" and value stuff of the captain were stored, in this way this stuff was secured and safe during the action.
Also the enemy did not want to hit the boats, because this was part of the breeze money.
So -> No shooting towards the towed boats!
This is an interesting revelation to me. I never considered it before. Fascinating! Rich (PT-2)
 
The next parts for finalizing the structures on the deck are the bitts, or bow sprit and jigger boom partners

for this the bowsprit and the boom have to be sanded partly octagonal

View attachment 255206

The boom aft

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and also the same principle fore at the stern for the bowsprit - BTW: I used the here the round material included in the kit and adjusted only the part close to the ship with sanding an octagonal cross-section - the overall rest of the boom and bowspri I will do much later when I praper the masts and spars - they are used in moment only for the dimension and adjustments of the partners installed at the deck

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To get an impression of the overall length of the finished ship model .....

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Very nice work with your detailing and bowsprit preparation. This is going to be a great ship to see evolve. Rich (PT-2)
 
Many Thanks to all freinds making comments and also to every like received ..... highly appreciated
I am very happy to see, that there is still some interest in my detailed explanations inside my building log of the Le Coureur

finalized also the small structure for the belaying pin - especially for @Jimsky who made once a comment - now, with some small adjustments the joints are mcuh better and rectangular

small additional comment: I realized with these photos that the pins are not sitting correctly (partly half mm too high), so I widdened the holes a little bit and now they are sitting directly on top of the horizontal bar
The pins supplied by CAF are great !!!!
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to get a feeling for the size - see the toothpick in front
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Great work (as usual), Mon Amie! As usual, I have a question of mine. The question today is in regards to the belying pins. I see your belaying pins are 'blackened' (cause they turned from brass). What makes me think about what material are they were made from? I cannot see they were made out of iron (this would be way too heavy), then it should be wood. The wood color should be natural unless the wood is treated with tar to extend the life in service. What do you think?
 
Many Thanks to all freinds making comments and also to every like received ..... highly appreciated
I am very happy to see, that there is still some interest in my detailed explanations inside my building log of the Le Coureur

finalized also the small structure for the belaying pin - especially for @Jimsky who made once a comment - now, with some small adjustments the joints are mcuh better and rectangular

small additional comment: I realized with these photos that the pins are not sitting correctly (partly half mm too high), so I widdened the holes a little bit and now they are sitting directly on top of the horizontal bar
The pins supplied by CAF are great !!!!
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to get a feeling for the size - see the toothpick in front
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That pin rail/bits are very nicely sized with plenty of room beneath for securing the falls below as well as above the pins. Rich
 
Great work (as usual), Mon Amie! As usual, I have a question of mine. The question today is in regards to the belying pins. I see your belaying pins are 'blackened' (cause they turned from brass). What makes me think about what material are they were made from? I cannot see they were made out of iron (this would be way too heavy), then it should be wood. The wood color should be natural unless the wood is treated with tar to extend the life in service. What do you think?

Many Thanks for your comment.
Based on my short research related to the belaying pins you are partly right.
Usual these pins were made out of hard wood - you can find them from a very light brown color up to more or less black brown. And I found also some examples of brass pins which went over the time to black (but I do not know when this changed). But you are right, that maybe 80% were brown and made out of wood
BTW: Often these pins were also used in direct man to man fights on deck
Due to the fact, that I had no brown paint by hand, I decided to blacken them (better blueing) and this will also produce a nice contrast to the brown of the running rigging
 
At this stage of progress I could once more not resist to make my overall photos of the actual status with the deck equipment I have prepared (everything still dry fitted on the deck
It is really a beautiful ship and a very good kit .... enjoy

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Next coming working step is the rails aft ...... to be continued .....
 
Hi Uwe,
Finally I had some time to catch up with your blog. You are building at great speed and the results are fantastic. Looks like you didn t go on summer holidays outside your workshop :-) .

This is really a nice model and she will beautifully fit on the mantlepiece.

Great work.
 
At this stage of progress I could once more not resist to make my overall photos of the actual status with the deck equipment I have prepared (everything still dry fitted on the deck
It is really a beautiful ship and a very good kit .... enjoy

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Next coming working step is the rails aft ...... to be continued .....

I can confirm this to the full extent, beautiful ship, cleanly built, simply a feast for the eyes.
Premier Cru, better Grand Cru
 
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Many Thanks for your comment.
Based on my short research related to the belaying pins you are partly right.
Usual these pins were made out of hard wood - you can find them from a very light brown color up to more or less black brown. And I found also some examples of brass pins which went over the time to black (but I do not know when this changed). But you are right, that maybe 80% were brown and made out of wood
BTW: Often these pins were also used in direct man to man fights on deck
Due to the fact, that I had no brown paint by hand, I decided to blacken them (better blueing) and this will also produce a nice contrast to the brown of the running rigging
I have read that some of the wooden belaying pins were made of lignum vidae (not sure of the spelling) which is the same wood used in dead eyes and blocks if those sheaves were not metallic. Great looking ship. Rich (PT-2)
 
Many Thansk to all your comments hints and also likes received

The railing was the next working step

Here the manual skecthes - first the vertical timbers / pillars have to be installed inside the notches
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and after correct leveling the small pillars - the horiziontal rail can be finally adjusted (if necessary) and fixed
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