LE COUREUR - french Lugger 1776 - POF kit from CAF in 1:48 by Uwe

[Chello]

You are absolutely right - when I saw this sketch (and others) from the second manual

View attachment 185332

I realized this also

The base elements B1 and B2 can be used also as a solid base for the deck, rigging etc. works.

- we have to think which connections have to be fixed and which connections should be loose or only temporary fixed with only some spots of glue
It looks like that the slots in the base for the vertical parts A2 and A6 can be used

I agree it is best not to glue anything other than the two support pieces.
Once all parts are “clicked” properly in place the jig is very sturdy. I did screw the bottom pates to a solid plank for more stability as advised in the manual.
Great work as usual Uwe!!

 

[donfarr]

JUST ABSOLUTLE WONDERFUL UWE, ESPECIALLY FOR SOME ONE LIKE ME,,,QUESTION ON FILES WHAT CUT ARE YOU USING. GOD BLESS YOU AND YOURS DON

 

[Stargazer]

Don, I know he just bought some hi falutin’ file sets from Pferd to use on the coureur.... they were 0 and 1 plus he said he already had some 2’s - the frames aren’t super smooth so I would guess he’s using the new 0’s -that’s what I’m gonna use so it doesn’t take forever to do....

 

[donfarr]

THANK YOU VERY GREATLY, I TOO AM GOING TO ORDER THOSE BUT CAN ONLY GET ONE AT A TIME, THANK YOU VERY MUCH. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON

 

[CAFmodel]

Now we have this four parts (marked with red arrows), where I do not have any clue for what, where or they

Thank you very much. The manual needs to be improved and expressed more clearly，

 

[CAFmodel]

For the bottom of the dock, we usually use quick drying glue. It can fix the dock very quickly and firmly in the early stage. However, after two months, it will become brittle. If you break it hard, you can loosen it. In addition, there is a kind of dissolving agent, which can effectively dissolve the quick drying glue and make the parts loose

 

[Uwek]

Thank you very much. The manual needs to be improved and expressed more clearly，

Thanks - this would be good and we would be happy to assist here.

 

[Uwek]

Don, I know he just bought some hi falutin’ file sets from Pferd to use on the coureur.... they were 0 and 1 plus he said he already had some 2’s - the frames aren’t super smooth so I would guess he’s using the new 0’s -that’s what I’m gonna use so it doesn’t take forever to do....

Absolutely correct

 

[Uwek]

These are the next information related to the jig given by the manual.



According Figure sketch No. 20 and 21 there are two options possible -
option 1 with closed side walls or option 2 with the open one´s with cut outs.

Due to the fact, that in my opinion it is very helpful to have a sideview possibility to check f.e. the connection between the individual frames with keel I decided to follow option 2









VERY IMPORTANT !!!

Take also a look in the manual No.2 inside the second box





And you realize, that for the future work you have to install "measuring sticks" through some holes in the side-walls which are defining the correct height of the internal structures......

You can see these prepared holes very good on this photo marked with the different arros (only a few are marked)


and you can easily see, that the holes are often located in the elements, which you remove for the before mentioned option 1 with open "windows".

Here one shown in closer view


So keep these parts and do not throw them away - You will need them later !!!!




Here you can see the topview with installed keel and the view through the window.

 

[Uwek]

Many thanks for the interest and the likes received - highly appreciated

In the meantime I fixed the jig of the Le Coureur and glued the parts to the base. And I could not restrain myself to put the frames on top of the keel, in order to make a first check of the fitting accuracy between keel, frame and the jig.
GREAT - I have in moment only really small gaps between the frame top timber and the notches of the jig









And here some impressions with the view through the windows where we can see the frames sitting on top of the keel





Especially in the area of the bow and stern it will be necessary to check the correctness of the floor timber beveling exactly -> Therefore I recommend to open these windows, otherwise it would be only a guess


Many Thanks for your interest .... to be continued .....

 

[Maarten]

Wonderfull work Uwe at great speed. Seeing all these clincker frames I am happy I started the Alert group build. That must gave been a ...load of work filing all these frames.

 

[Uwek]

Many Thanks for all your kind words and likes

One small tip or a description of something I realized.

When I tried to remove two frames (such one, which are located directly on a vertical stiffener of the jig A5 and A6), which were sitting on top of the keel dry-fitted I broke once more the floor timbers. There can be two reasons, which I tried to eliminate



The frames have to have enough space, so that they are not squeezed into the jig

1) first step was sanding slightly the teeth of the "A"-parts of the jig


2) sanding the top parts of the "A"-parts, where the top timbers are touching the parts

 

[Uwek]

another small, but very good working tip.

On bigger frames (of other ship models) I am usually sanding the inside with my drum sander. Here for the relative fragile frames of the Le Coureur I am using the small sanding drum on a Proxxon drill



Did you realize the black tube on the top left of the photo?

It is the mouth of my vacuum cleanr tube, fastly fixed with a bench-vise! With this modet of the dust is immediately removed.....

 

[Uwek]

Like mentioned in another topic I started this weekend also the stern structure....

first of all the information given in the manual and the drawings, that you all are getting a feeling of the construction

The manual








Here the excerpt from the drawing


Due to the fact, that the Le Coureur was a relatively small ship, also the stern was relatively small.
And because of this the elements of the stern structure are also small, very small for big fingers. And the structure contents our of more than 30 parts - tricky but extremely interesting

So take the time, no rush, so hurry up - this structure will need its time to build - otherwise a lot of other future work will not fit

So think twice, try dry three times (or even more)
and before you use the glue
-> start once more to think about it

 

[PoulD]

I tried sanding the side counter timbers and felt as if I was intime shaving a pissant while wearing boxing cloves

 

[Jimsky]

Like mentioned in another topic I started this weekend also the stern structure....

I will be of much interest to see the stern structure and assembly progress. Alert kits also have a number of parts for stern, and careful planning should be taken.

 

[CAFmodel]

The stern is the most complex part of the structure

 

[Uwek]

The stern is the most complex part of the structure

I can completely agree with your words...... complex - tricky - and produces a lot of fun to work on

 

[Uwek]

Now I want to show you the parts the stern structure will be build

on the left side the cnc parts which will form the outer main frames (still not removed from their base)
in the middle the vertical elements (not cleaned from char) and
on the right the three horizontal parts


The cnc parts are made out of two or three layers of cherry wood - some how a plywood, which is producing the stiffness of the parts (otherwise I think it could break easily following the grain)


Here the prepared parts - you can see that the side counter timbers are made each out of three elements


I glued first the two smaller vertical elements - good to see also the steps for connecting the parts


And here the final form of the counter timbers - In the back ground the Boudriot drawings - I tried to make photos from different angles, so you can see the complex three-dimensional form of these parts

 

[Uwek]

Thes are the three horizontal elements of the stern structure, two are cnc and one is laser cut

This time on top of the CAF drawing so you can see the future location of the parts




dry-fitting


All the parts have to be taken a dozen of times into hand and try the best fit with each other. In order to understand the parts, their correct connection and and and - highly interesting