LE COUREUR - french Lugger 1776 - POF kit from CAF in 1:48 by Uwe

I finished the preparation of the frames for axis 2 up to axis 37. Final adjustment and cleaning I plan to do during the installation of the frames on top of the keel....... One additional step is done and I think they are looking good - let us see in the future, if I prepared the frames in acceptable accuracy (I hope, that I do not need to make any frame once more...... If I need: Tom: hope that I do not need spare to correct my errors)

Repeating the sketch from CAF
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Here the "Regular trapeziod" frames
(Axis 1 laying in front I will do during the installation on the keel)
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Here the "Inverted trapeziod" frames

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Puh......
 
For most of the visitors of my log this post will be somehow boring, but maybe it will help one or another modeler in future to check a frame in detail.
Maybe also for me later good to see them, if I realize at the end a mistake in the overall construction.
You can see, that the individual frames are not completely finished (most of them inside not faired)
-> In a later stage of the build, when all the frames are really finished, I plan to make similar photos and show them in an extra support topic .......

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and the last frames starting with No.23 also from the other side
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The only frame missing in the last post is cant-frame No.1 which I want to show here ....
I was not able to interpret the laser marks directly (was tired already) , so I decided to adjust this frame during the direct installation at the stempost :rolleyes:

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donfarr said:
GREAT LEARNING LOG AS WELL AS GREAT CRAFTMANSHIP, I HAVE ONE QUESTION I CAND NOT UNDERSTAND THE FRAME TRAPAZODIAL AND INVERTED WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE, HOPE THIS IS NOT HIJACKING YOUR LOG. STAY SAFE GOD BLESS YOU AND YOURS DON
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Hallo Don,
do not take these definitions so important.....it is mainly a definition that the frames fairing is different midship to aft comparing midship to fore
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If you see the floor timber of the frame is every time (left and right side) at the bottom
The frames midship towards aft are red
The frames midship to fore are green

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Here the floor timbers are marked with blue arrow
and with the red line and arrow (repective also green) I marked the necessary direction of the fairing of the frames

If you follow strictly some rules in the "Making of the frames" and follow the lasered marks of the parts - you will have a correct result !!!
 
Wow Uwe, extra effort on your part to help those less experienced builders like me, I really appreciate the extra time and effort you are giving - much easier to understand the process when I see it... Question: on the frames that you have faired, when there is a lot of wood to remove for the bevel (like frame 37) do you only use a #0 needle file? Or do you shave some wood with a knife and finish with the file?
 
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Stargazer said:
Wow Uwe, extra effort on your part to help those less experienced builders like me, I really appreciate the extra time and effort you are giving - much easier to understand the process when I see it... Question: on the frames that you have faired, when there is a lot of wood to remove for the bevel (like frame 37) do you only use a #0 needle file? Or do you shave some wood with a knife and finish with the file?
Click to expand...
I am happy to help if I am able to....
I tried several ways with the tools I have and realized, that in principle the best and most accurate results are with the files - nevertheless everybody has to try his/her best ways. I can only explain, which methods worked for me the best.

Taking a look at the frame 37 which is aft the most complicated one
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I marked with green arrows the area, which I did completely with the files

With red arrows are marked areas, where I used for the "rough" work the Proxxon drill with the sanding drum
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and afterwards a file (on the frame 37 I did not make the real finish - it is still rough prepared)

And these are the files of the set, which I used most often

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yellow: standard file because no sanding area at the sides
green: sanding when the tooth was very small (but not very often)
red: final sanding of curves, the areas where I made before with the Proxxon drill - drum

I did not try with a knife , although in some areas it could work - sometimes maybe problematic, because the knife will try to follow the grain of the timber and not the direction you want......
 
Hello Uwe,
Let me assure you that your log is far from boring. And for us rookies even less. Every detail is helpful to us. From my side, many thanks for every post you - and other experienced modelers -makes about the build Thumbsup
May I ask you about a thing I wonder: The distance between the violet lines is that a due to a wrong laser marking by Trident or a slightly misplacement by you or . . . ?
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PoulD said:
Hello Uwe,
Let me assure you that your log is far from boring. And for us rookies even less. Every detail is helpful to us. From my side, many thanks for every post you - and other experienced modelers -makes about the build Thumbsup
May I ask you about a thing I wonder: The distance between the violet lines is that a due to a wrong laser marking by Trident or a slightly misplacement by you or . . . ?
View attachment 185302
Click to expand...
First of all it is not Trident it is CAF - but I guess this was the mixing up with the other running group build.
I know about the mismatch of this line you are showing with violet arrows.
When you glue the elements together, like I did with having the floor and top timber on the paper - the showed lines are covered and not visible - I was following from the other side the teeth / steps and tried to keep them one upon the other... I made the mistake not to check these parts before more in detail - so I can not say more what is correct or not - so I have to see when I install the frame finally
PS: Good eye !!!
 
Status of today:
In moment the keel (post #2ff) and the frames (post #11ff) are prepared.
Figure 8 of the Manual is showing the construction of the stern-timbers, but in moment I will shift this a little bit until the jig is completely prepared and ready to take over the complete elements - my thinking is going in this way, that the jig can maybe help in the construction and alignment of the stern timbers.....

So the next working step is the jig.....

This is, what the manual is telling us

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Due to the fact, that I am fixing the base elements B1 and B2 directly to a wooden solid base I decided not to use the wooden parts B3, B4 and B5 - first glued and weight with some metal weights - afterward I fixed it in addition with some screws
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These are the parts, which I did not use
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Starting with dry-fit of the vertical elements A1 to A10 and the horizontal waterline elements with the notches for the frames
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In the following I am showing the parts which are maybe not self-explaining

C4 - blue arrow

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In figure 15 of the manual the two parts of the frame jig is shown with the connecting elements (C1-2 in the manual)

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On the timber sheet these connecting parts are numbered with C4 (blue arrow) !!!!

And here is the photo showing the final location marked with the red arrow - they are fitting in the wider slot of the vertical element A4
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C3 and C5

marked on the timber sheet with red and green arrow
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you can see that the timber part C5 is in the manual defined as C1-4 / C3 on timber is C1-3 in manual.
I am pretty sure, that @CAFmodel will adjust and correct the manual in future editions......
Maybe it would be a possibility to upload here revised versions of the manuals - we should discuss this

and here the final location
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Now we have this four parts (marked with red arrows), where I do not have any clue for what, where or they are for ?!?!?

They are not numbered - and they have no 90° angle

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They can not be for this later stage shown in the second manual, because the parts 3C-3 can be found on a sheet in the second box
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So I hope, that Tom from @CAFmodel will enlighten me ..... please
Or does somebody else has am idea or information .....
 
PoulD said:
Maybe it is better not to glue any vertical part to B1 & B2 since the jig should be converted at a later stage (manual 2)
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You are absolutely right - when I saw this sketch (and others) from the second manual

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I realized this also

The base elements B1 and B2 can be used also as a solid base for the deck, rigging etc. works.

- we have to think which connections have to be fixed and which connections should be loose or only temporary fixed with only some spots of glue
It looks like that the slots in the base for the vertical parts A2 and A6 can be used
 
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