I sanded a few frames. The frames do fit after all ! but,,, if I move the jig that will change that fit. So now what’s my next move ?
Le Rochefort 1:36 build by Tony P
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Before you fit your frames, you should first finish your keel with the individual notches and do the same with your frames.
The problem with your frames will be that they are not milled and you have one deeper and one narrower notch per frame which will be quite difficult to mill.
Next you need to align your top plate, for this you need to decide whether you want to follow the waterline or the deck structure. If you prefer the waterline you have to cut out the crossbeam as shown in my picture. If you prefer the waterline, you can leave the plate as it is, but you will have to adjust your plate.
The problem with your frames will be that they are not milled and you have one deeper and one narrower notch per frame which will be quite difficult to mill.
Next you need to align your top plate, for this you need to decide whether you want to follow the waterline or the deck structure. If you prefer the waterline you have to cut out the crossbeam as shown in my picture. If you prefer the waterline, you can leave the plate as it is, but you will have to adjust your plate.
I cut the plate so all is good. Yes the frames I just test fitted to make sure the jig was ok. The frame notches I’ll mill where I can and hand cut the rest. I may even have to modify the rising wood to fit my particular frames. That might be easiest. I’m making new stern filler pieces now as the other 4 I made might or might not work for me. Thanks Tobias
Todays progress. Long hours the past days spent on the axial structure and stern. All semi rough shaped. I ended up making all new stern filler pieces and wing transom. Fine tuning will be done after I glue it up and possibly make new rising wood.
Thanks its going to be a long road.
Hi tobias,
Will you share the dimensions of your t-track table? I’m in the process of designing one like it and don’t want to make it too small (or too big, for that matter)
thanks,
Olivier
I built the keel end supports for the jig and sanded about hand the frames. I spent alot of time making new slotted rising wood only to realize it’s not going to work with the Hahn frames. I did mill one frame to fit the two different size slots in the rising wood but can’t see doing all of them being a success.
I made a solid piece of rising wood for the square frames. 5 to 25. I will slot the frame bottoms to fit it. I may make a new keelson with slots to fit my frames. I’d like to know what’s the recommended way of treating the frame bottoms while using Hahn style frames that were glued together then cut out ?? This is what I’ve settled on but I’d still love to know how the Hahn method treats this. Thanks Tony
I made a solid piece of rising wood for the square frames. 5 to 25. I will slot the frame bottoms to fit it. I may make a new keelson with slots to fit my frames. I’d like to know what’s the recommended way of treating the frame bottoms while using Hahn style frames that were glued together then cut out ?? This is what I’ve settled on but I’d still love to know how the Hahn method treats this. Thanks Tony
Post in thread 'Le Redoutable 1/48'
Maybe Oliver's contribution will help. And Toni, importantly, you still need the wood of the keel with the notches.
If you’re referring to me, good luck! I’m a novice on scratch building models and understand that I know less than nothing. I do have extensive full size woodworking knowledge and some kit building success but have quickly learned that this is a whole new world!
Thanks Tobias, I suppose I could cut the frame bottoms off. I can then make new bottom "blanks" mill them properly then glue them to the frames. ? I could also make yet another rising wood with slots that fit my frames, same with the keelson above.
Oliver's Historic Shipyard he's talking about.
As it is now. If my frames are notched to fit over the rising wood and I make a new keelson with notched to fit over the frames why is that an issue ? When we use the Hahn method were taking the framing accuracy away anyway. From what I understand Hahn invented this method to make it easier to build a POF model. Comparing this method with the normal follow the plan method is a mistake I think. Id really like to find out how the frame bottoms "should" be done Hahn style.
Whew, thanks for clarifying. Now I can go back in my corner and ponder what the next step should be…
Hi Toni, unfortunately I don't know how the Hahn method works exactly. That's why I put a video under information. I have also read in other forums that Herold has chosen this principle to simplify the frame construction and to be faster, neglecting the accuracy of the joints. I have also read that the ships are built upside down. I can't give you any tips on this, sorry.
Tobias, yes exactly right. Im only using his framing method, nothing else. That's why I'm not concerned about framing accuracy. If I really wanted it very accurate I'd build the regular way. I'm trying this method as I've been curious about it for a long time. There's info out there on the Net but it doesn't explain it fully. Thanks
Tobias, Where's the video ?
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i am not sure i fully understand the issue with the Hahn method
It’s not an issue to me. I’d like to just continue as I am but I don’t know what’s right or wrong. See my message. Thanks