Hallo Tobias! Beautiful work. Once again, a question: how did you shape the S-shaped panel (image 420)?
And then sanded it to the line with a spindle sander? By hand? Sorry for all the questions. You work habits are so different from mine and I am trying to learn...@OlivierF , don't burn it under any circumstances, you're doing a great job.
Paul @dockattner , unfortunately I didn't take any more pictures of this part, but I have one from La Palme where I used this principle before. I cut it out with the fretsaw.
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And then sanded it to the line with a spindle sander? By hand? Sorry for all the questions. You work habits are so different from mine and I am trying to learn...
Thank you kindly, Tobias. The result speaks for itself!Good morning Paul, no problem. Yes, it is sanded exactly to the line with the spindle sander, then I use a square and a pencil to mark the top and bottom edges as well as the middle one, which symbolizes the bend. These three lines then help me to stick the side view on. In the next step, the final shape is cut out again with the fretsaw, with a little meat on the edge. Now the first rough adjustments to the rear follow, the support on the upper crossbeam is adjusted with a fretsaw and file. When this fits, the wood on the side gets the finishing touches.
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True storyBeautiful work Tobias! The more I look at your efforts the more I want to toss my work in the fire and start over. You are truly an inspiration to all the rest of us mere mortals!
tu m’étonne Tobias travail comme un maître Bravo, mais chacun fait à son niveau , pour moi Tobias est ici d’une grande inspiration également ,et toi Olivier je pense que tu fais de très belles choses également.Beau travail Tobias ! Plus je regarde vos efforts, plus j’ai envie de jeter mon travail au feu et de recommencer. Vous êtes vraiment une source d’inspiration pour nous tous, simples mortels !
happy Easter my dear friend TobiasGood morning Paul, no problem. Yes, it is sanded exactly to the line with the spindle sander, then I use a square and a pencil to mark the top and bottom edges as well as the middle one, which symbolizes the bend. These three lines then help me to stick the side view on. In the next step, the final shape is cut out again with the fretsaw, with a little meat on the edge. Now the first rough adjustments to the rear follow, the support on the upper crossbeam is adjusted with a fretsaw and file. When this fits, the wood on the side gets the finishing touches.
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Really nice progress, Tobias. The little English lady, you planned for the future is also on my list. Perhaps we have a really small group build.
Nice and precise work. Tobias. It starts ti accentuate her sheer.Good evening everyone, it's been a while since there was an update, in my defense, the Admiralty wanted a new wall color in the living room and dining room, the end result was that all the rooms got a new coat of paint. Furthermore, spring is just around the corner and so I've spent the last few nice days in the garden.
Now for the important thing. Thank you all for your comments and the likes you have received.
The next step was to make the waterway. This is not easy, it has to be adapted to the curvature of the inside, which at first doesn't seem that difficult, but the curvature is not consistent along the whole length. Unfortunately I am unable to take pictures of this process as you need both hands to work.
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A quick explanation:
You determine the measurement from the plan, copy the sides with the waterway and cut it out of a board of the right thickness. Then hold it to the inside, take a fine pencil and transfer the slope to the profile of the waterway (front and back). I carefully sanded it down along the whole length and finally adjusted it with a scraper. Then mark the beams, mill them and adjust them again.
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Now for the slope of the waterway on the inside:
You need two measurements for this, the thickness of the planks on the bulwark and the thickness of the deck boards. The waterway is already in place, now I took a sample of the plank on the bulwark and positioned it and then transferred it to the entire length of the waterway with a pencil, the same applies to the deck boards. Sand again and scrape off a little to get a fairly straight surface.
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The advantage of scraping is that the pores in the wood do not get clogged and you get a much better finish when you finish the surface with oil or varnish.
Lorsque je mets du ballistol sur le laiton délicatement, je tache tout de même le bois Vous avez fait comment pour que ça reste nickel ? Je suis obligé de poncer pour enlever l’auréole et forcément j’enlève le noire sur le carré, merci beaucoup d’avance et bravo pour votre taf
When I delicately put ballistol on the brass, I still stain the wood How did you do it to keep it nickel free? I have to sand to remove the halo and inevitably I remove the black on the square, thank you very much in advance and congratulations for your work
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Alternatively, in addition to what Tobias said (above), you can oil the holes and small surrounding area (a few times), then use Balistol.When I delicately put ballistol on the brass, I still stain the wood How did you do it to keep it nickel free? I have to sand to remove the halo and inevitably I remove the black on the square, thank you very much in advance and congratulations for your work
D’accord merci beaucoup Je vais essaye ça ce week end Pouce levéSalut Titoneri, j’utilise un cure-dent et je le trempe dedans, puis j’essaie d’en mettre juste un peu sur le laiton. Une fois qu’il commence à se décolorer, je le tamponne avec un chiffon humide.
Merci je vais essaye Pouce levéAlternativement, en plus de ce que Tobias a dit (ci-dessus), vous pouvez huiler les trous et la petite zone environnante (plusieurs fois), puis utiliser Balistol.D’accord e vais essai égal