LE ROCHEFORT - Harbour yacht from 1787 1:36 by Tobias (Monograph by ANCRE)

Tobias · Feb 1, 2023

Uwek said:
Very good tutorial and explanations - Bravo my friend
BTW: Which kind of glue are you using sticking the paper to the wood - I have very good results with fixo-gum - you can remove the paper and glue afterwards without any problems

Hello Uwe Thank you and yes I also use fixo gum in part 1 in the last section I also mentioned it and in the following picture in this section you can see it too. I also touched on his personality briefly.
Good point, in any case I will add it again in part two.

moreplovac · Feb 1, 2023

Thanks Tobias, keep these nice tutorials coming...

Guessing you are using scroll saw for cutting those pieces and not a band saw, am I wrong?

Tobias · Feb 1, 2023

moreplovac said:
Thanks Tobias, keep these nice tutorials coming...

Guessing you are using scroll saw for cutting those pieces and not a band saw, am I wrong?

Absolutely correct moreplovac , for cutting I use a scroll saw.

OlivierF · Feb 1, 2023

Tobias said:
Hello Uwe Thank you and yes I also use fixo gum in part 1 in the last section I also mentioned it and in the following picture in this section you can see it too. I also touched on his personality briefly.
Good point, in any case I will add it again in part two.

Unfortunately it does not look like FixoGum is sold in the U.S. I use a simple everyday glue stick. Seems to work well enough although getting the paper off is a challenge... For the time being I sand the paper off.

dockattner · Feb 1, 2023

OlivierF said:
Unfortunately it does not look like FixoGum is sold in the U.S. I use a simple everyday glue stick. Seems to work well enough although getting the paper off is a challenge... For the time being I sand the paper off.

Hi Olivier,

I'm just using Elmer's Rubber Cement (on another build). Essentially the same as FixoGum but lacks the convenience of the tube. Rubs right off the wood without sanding. Makes a splendid mess until it dries though

.

OlivierF · Feb 1, 2023

dockattner said:
Hi Olivier,

I'm just using Elmer's Rubber Cement (on another build). Essentially the same as FixoGum but lacks the convenience of the tube. Rubs right off the wood without sanding. Makes a splendid mess until it dries though .

Thanks Paul. I agree and have used rubber cement as well. But as you say it makes a mess and smells to high heaven. That’s why a switched to the glue stick.

Tobias · Feb 2, 2023

Hello Together I found the following on Marabu's website. This would be the manufacturer of the glue FIXO Gum. Maybe it will be helpful.

Marabu Creative - High Quality Specialist Paints Made In Germany

Marabu has been a synonym for high-quality specialist paints with the quality seal “Made in Germany” for over 150 years.

marabucreative-usa.com

Tony P · Feb 2, 2023

Great work Tobias. Thanks for showing us your methods.

OlivierF · Feb 2, 2023

Tobias said:
Hello Together I found the following on Marabu's website. This would be the manufacturer of the glue FIXO Gum. Maybe it will be helpful.

View attachment 355061

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Marabu Creative - High Quality Specialist Paints Made In Germany

Marabu has been a synonym for high-quality specialist paints with the quality seal “Made in Germany” for over 150 years.

marabucreative-usa.com

Thanks Tobias. I had found their U.S. website but they do not appear to import any of the glue products. I sent them an email asking about it anyway. We’ll see…

dockattner · Feb 2, 2023

OlivierF said:
Thanks Tobias. I had found their U.S. website but they do not appear to import any of the glue products. I sent them an email asking about it anyway. We’ll see…

You can order Fixogum on US Amazon but it's imported so it costs $39 and takes 6 weeks to ship. Didn't pass the test of common sense for me but perhaps you might be willing...

OlivierF · Feb 2, 2023

dockattner said:
You can order Fixogum on US Amazon but it's imported so it costs $39 and takes 6 weeks to ship. Didn't pass the test of common sense for me but perhaps you might be willing...

Paul, you are correct. There are many other options for much less effort and cost.

OlivierF · Feb 2, 2023

Tobias said:
Good evening everyone, Tony had a bit of a problem with the stern and it's about the taper of the stern.

On the one hand, this can be seen from the plans and, on the other hand, Adrian describes it in his book. Here are the pictures for the plan/book.

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First you have to measure the overhang of the small triangle and then you need a small piece of wood that corresponds to the measurement and put it on the lower corner of the stern post. Now align your workpiece and clamp it.
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Now position your milling cutter at the beginning of the taper and mill path by path up to the beginning of the triangle up to the upper end of the triangle.

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Now it gets a little tricky since we have two different pitches, so place about half of the previous piece of wood under the other end and then continue routing to the first mark on the top small arch.

You do the whole thing on the other side too.
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Hi Tobias, I think I have correctly milled the long taper as your picture details. Now I’m trying to understand the 2nd step for the short taper. You say to

place about half of the previous piece of wood under the other end

I’m not understanding where to place the “shim” for this step.
thanks again for your help.

Tobias · Feb 2, 2023

OlivierF said:
Hi Tobias, I think I have correctly milled the long taper as your picture details. Now I’m trying to understand the 2nd step for the short taper. You say to

I’m not understanding where to place the “shim” for this step.
thanks again for your help.
View attachment 355144

Red arrow shows you the place where you should put a board half as thick.

OlivierF · Feb 2, 2023

Tobias said:
Red arrow shows you the place where you should put a board half as thick.
View attachment 355195

Thank You! Really appreciate the quick reply. I owe you a beer at least!

Tobias · Feb 5, 2023

Part 3
MILLING, GLUING AND SANDING.

In the next step, I mill the floor timbers. We have to consider two depths. To know which depth to use with which bottom wood, see the color-coded plan and the parts marked with a and b. In the first part I went into my auxiliary keel which is now used for the first time to check if my milling is ok.

When this is done, I put all the parts on my glass plate. With a piece of wood on which I have attached a piece of sandpaper (240 grit) I remove the degree created by the sanding. Then I sort my frames and glue the lower parts.

After drying, I take my plan of the frames and measure the upper width and align the upper joints that have not yet been glued and compare my measurement with that from the plan. If we have about 1mm deviation, we are right on target. If we have more we have to correct something. The question is how and where and how much. A good question is to take the part that has not yet been glued and sand it down a little, but really only 1/100 of a millimeter. Check again and then glue.

Next, I remove the excess glue on the gluing surface. I drag it across my sanding pad. I now apply a thin layer of glue to the inside of the frames and join them together, without pressure. Now I take my small keel and align my two halves and fix them with my clamps.

Now it is time to dry the frames. After drying, the frames are sanded to size on the spindle sander. In my case, the yellow marked side is always the upper side and then I sand to the line.

That's it for part 3 in the next part I'll show you the finish.

Tobias · Feb 5, 2023

Part 4
FINISH
At the front and rear formers we see the dashed lines, these are inside and outside that is our curvature. With the sander I slowly work my way to the dotted line.