Le Saint Philippe 1693 after Jean-Claude Lemineur (Ancre) in scale 1:48

[Namabiiru]

Wonderful craftsmanship. A real eye opener!

I have a question Paul - If you decide to use sanding dust and glue to mask gaps, how do you prevent the mixture being a much darker and more saturated version of the wood colour? I have always found this a problem and never found a solution.

Instead of glue, experiment with mixing sawdust with cooked white rice as a filler. The rice dries rock hard and will take stain the same as wood.

 

[dockattner]

A very skilled approach, and awesome results, mon ami!

Thanks, Jim. This step turned out better in my imagination - but it's mine and I like it.

Beautiful work Paul, I really like the curved upper frame of the lights (or are those also canon ports)?

Curved upper: just following the plans - though I agree it does add some visual interest (I think these are still gun ports, but...).

 

[dockattner]

You are too hard on yourself Paul. Your work has always been a progression of very skillful modelling that many of us can only wish to attain. As I look at your photos today I can only mutter to myself “I wish I could do as well”. Truly great work my friend.

What @RogerD said! Great results!

Thanks, guys. Yes, hard on myself is what I do best . I've seen these sills done better - but also 'not better.' I did the best I could, so as I mentioned to Jim above I have really no option but to like it.

 

[dockattner]

The ports looks very nice, Paul. Looking at your progress is a nice sidestep from my own build.
Regards, Peter

And I likewise use your work and others as a diversion (inspiration!) from my own.

 

[dockattner]

my dear friend Paul
you are doing tremendous work, it's looks so promising and accurate

Thank you kindly, Shota!

 

[dockattner]

Wonderful craftsmanship. A real eye opener!

I have a question Paul - If you decide to use sanding dust and glue to mask gaps, how do you prevent the mixture being a much darker and more saturated version of the wood colour? I have always found this a problem and never found a solution.

Hi Richard. Your experience is why I'm not a huge fan of this approach.

Instead of glue, experiment with mixing sawdust with cooked white rice as a filler. The rice dries rock hard and will take stain the same as wood.

And suddenly, from the other side of the world, a possible remedy! I am fascinated by this idea, Namabiiru, and I'm confident others are as well!

 

[Herman]

Calling your joints mediocre?? They are somewhat.. well, way above mediocre imho. Fantastic piece of work.

 

[dockattner]

Calling your joints mediocre?? They are somewhat.. well, way above mediocre imho. Fantastic piece of work.

My wife assures me I am mediocre. I use that for calibration .

 

[Corsair]

Beautiful work as always Paul !

 

[RichardG]

Instead of glue, experiment with mixing sawdust with cooked white rice as a filler. The rice dries rock hard and will take stain the same as wood.

Very interesting. Does the type of rice matter?, long grain - short grain. What about the long term implications, degradation, insects?

 

[Namabiiru]

Very interesting. Does the type of rice matter?, long grain - short grain. What about the long term implications, degradation, insects?

Sticky rice, not minute rice. Japanese craftsmen have been using rise as both an adhesive and a filler (rarely needed in Japanese joinery) for centuries so insects and degradation are not known to be problems.

 

[Masters Mate]

Sticky rice, not minute rice. Japanese craftsmen have been using rise as both an adhesive and a filler (rarely needed in Japanese joinery) for centuries so insects and degradation are not known to be problems.

We have used it in our book restoration business for years. We add a few drops of clove oil which stops it going mouldy, but once it is properly dry it lasts for many years so long as the insects don't find it..

 

[Masters Mate]

Hello Friends,

Today I wrapped up the gunport and window (light) upper and lower sills.

Under macro imaging the joinery is mediocre at best, but keep in mind that the entire outer surface of the hull will be planked. Since the inner surface of the hull will not be planked I tried to get those joints more closed - but at this stage in my development as a modeler this was the best I could do (I need to figure out a way to standardize the cutouts in the framing).

I'm not a huge fan of using sawdust/sanding dust to fill gaps but if my eye keeps being drawn to certain gaps, I may have to resort to that.

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I believe this leaves the 'skin' of the ship mission accomplie. Time to do some trials and figure out how best to 'finish' the pearwood before starting to add things that will make sealing and protecting what you see here impossible.

As always, I am grateful that you would take time away from your own models to see what I have been doing.

So, I went looking for your gaps that needed filling and, well, I wouldn't. They would probably fill with paint or something, but would never detract from your precise work.

Gaps aren't REAL gaps unless the light gets through (like when the wing on a plane flexes and light shines in near your feet! It happened to me once as a passenger in a DC3 flying from Port Moresby to Kokoda. I was very quick to call THAT a gap and the pilot returned us safely to Port Moresby).

Love your work, Paul.

 

[Masters Mate]

I saw a video of someone doing it with a red-hot square poker. Easier and faster? Check. Better? Hmmm….

That was a Vietnamese builder I believe, on Facebook. It scared the daylights out of me, but it made neat square holes!