Which is most probably faster than the 300 UhlenhautWhen I drive long distances I take my SUV.
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Lemke-LeGrand 1:8 Mercedes-Benz 300SLR Uhlenhaut Coupé GullWing
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
- Start date
- Watchers 15
That’s what also came up in my mind, Maarten. But I don’t know how tight the bodywork will fit around this parts. And there is a lot to be done. Then also the dashboard has to be done.
It's a bit disappointing that Lemke-LeGrand didn't work this out themselves. The older Pocher models did have it to some extent.
Despite all the praise I've given this Lemke-Legrand kit so far, I already have a short list of items in the manual that aren't (completely) correct or that they could have paid more attention to. I contacted them via email about the first one I encountered. I received a somewhat evasive response. That didn't exactly encourage me to share my experience.
It's nice that they've already custom-made the seat upholstery, for example. It's just a bit ‘disappointing’ they didn't properly check the pattern's continuity: the elongated rectangles. It’s twisted crosswise. No, I didn't swap the seats or backrests. The width of the seats and shape of the backrest bolsters are different. If I swap them, the pattern on the left and right seat would still differ by a quarter turn. They themselves have swapped the backrests in the manual of ‘der Blaue’.
Regards, Peter
….. 290 km/h / 180,2 mph ……Which is most probably faster than the 300 Uhlenhaut
Group 3, steps 47 till 54:
Merging the interior and Dashboard.
The base of the interior has been placed in the chassis and bolted down:
With the modular construction of the dashboard and subframe:
Where I can't quite follow Lemke-LeGrand's line of reasoning:
Then they add details to the underside of the dashboard that you'll never see. But I did that myself also with the Duc's too...
We know it's there .....
Regards, Peter
Merging the interior and Dashboard.
The base of the interior has been placed in the chassis and bolted down:
With the modular construction of the dashboard and subframe:
Where I can't quite follow Lemke-LeGrand's line of reasoning:
Then they add details to the underside of the dashboard that you'll never see. But I did that myself also with the Duc's too...
We know it's there .....Regards, Peter
Group 3, steps 56 + 57:
The dashboard and another engine mount installed:
A few more shots from the other three angles:
Adjusted a button on the dashboard that wasn't shaped correctly.
Group 3 is complete, 73 parts with 60 bolts.
That brings the total to 365 parts and 325 bolts.
Regards, Peter
The dashboard and another engine mount installed:
A few more shots from the other three angles:
Adjusted a button on the dashboard that wasn't shaped correctly.
Group 3 is complete, 73 parts with 60 bolts.
That brings the total to 365 parts and 325 bolts.
Regards, Peter
Looks great!
Pretty cool looking model, Peter! The red will be the perfect foil for the silver.
Thanks, Dean.
Yes it is, Paul. I liked the red / 'der Rote' more the blue / 'der Blaue'. Her a comparison with some pictures from Lemke-LeGrand:
Regards, Peter
Last edited:
After two weeks in the Italian Dolomites, attending visiting some Olympic competitions and enjoying some skiing, as I showed in my Balder log, I'm still enjoying this view from 3265 meters on the Marmolada:
Back home, not immediately at my work table for the Balder, but cozy with my Admiral at the dining table. She's embroidering, and I'm doing:
Group 4, step 58:
Spokes for the first wheel. Because this still required quite a bit of study, I took some photos of the intermediate steps.
It's a jig on which you attach the first part of the rim and the hub:
On this wide side of the hub, there are 12 rows of 4 holes, diagonally above each other. The first and third will hold the spokes of section B. The second and fourth will hold the spokes of section A.
This is what it looks like:
The principle is somewhat similar to that of Pocher's spoke wheels.
Group 4, steps 59 to 61:
On the left, the first 12 spokes of section B:
In the middle, all 24 spokes, and on the right, with the retaining ring.
Group 4, steps 62+63:
All 24 spokes of section A:
The ends of the spokes are loose in the outer rim.
Group 4, step 64:
You now have to remove the template from the bottom and place it on top, on the spokes of section A. Then you have to turn the wheel over and continue with the spokes of section C.
When placing those spokes, I noticed that most of the spokes of section A were coming loose, and the spokes became a mess.
So I turned the wheel over again and secured all the ends of the spokes of section A with a bit of CA.
PS: I have no idea why they called the first 24 spokes B and the second 24 spokes A...........
Group 4, steps 65+66:
The narrow part of the rim is now on top. It contains 12 rows with two holes diagonally above each other:
For the first row of 12 spokes and for the second row of 12 spokes, use section C.
It takes some figuring out and careful study of the Lemke-LeGrand videos, but you have to weave the spokes from the rim through the other spokes so that they end up on the underside of the rim.
Once you've mastered the weaving pattern and turn the wheel over again after placing the two rows of 12 spokes, you'll get this view:
All the ends of 48 spokes on this side are in their recesses.
Group 4, steps 67+68:
The 48 ends are secured with a metal ring and secured to the second part of the rim. I forgot to take a picture of this.
Soak the tire in warm water for a while and tighten it around the rim:
The result is impressive.
The narrow part of the rim protrudes slightly beyond the rim flange. I placed the wheel there and turned it. The entire wheel is nice and straight and balanced.
Up to 5 other wheels ...... 5x72=360 spokes to go.
Regards, Peter
Back home, not immediately at my work table for the Balder, but cozy with my Admiral at the dining table. She's embroidering, and I'm doing:
Group 4, step 58:
Spokes for the first wheel. Because this still required quite a bit of study, I took some photos of the intermediate steps.
It's a jig on which you attach the first part of the rim and the hub:
On this wide side of the hub, there are 12 rows of 4 holes, diagonally above each other. The first and third will hold the spokes of section B. The second and fourth will hold the spokes of section A.
This is what it looks like:
The principle is somewhat similar to that of Pocher's spoke wheels.
Group 4, steps 59 to 61:
On the left, the first 12 spokes of section B:
In the middle, all 24 spokes, and on the right, with the retaining ring.
Group 4, steps 62+63:
All 24 spokes of section A:
The ends of the spokes are loose in the outer rim.
Group 4, step 64:
You now have to remove the template from the bottom and place it on top, on the spokes of section A. Then you have to turn the wheel over and continue with the spokes of section C.
When placing those spokes, I noticed that most of the spokes of section A were coming loose, and the spokes became a mess.
So I turned the wheel over again and secured all the ends of the spokes of section A with a bit of CA.
PS: I have no idea why they called the first 24 spokes B and the second 24 spokes A...........
Group 4, steps 65+66:
The narrow part of the rim is now on top. It contains 12 rows with two holes diagonally above each other:
For the first row of 12 spokes and for the second row of 12 spokes, use section C.
It takes some figuring out and careful study of the Lemke-LeGrand videos, but you have to weave the spokes from the rim through the other spokes so that they end up on the underside of the rim.
Once you've mastered the weaving pattern and turn the wheel over again after placing the two rows of 12 spokes, you'll get this view:
All the ends of 48 spokes on this side are in their recesses.
Group 4, steps 67+68:
The 48 ends are secured with a metal ring and secured to the second part of the rim. I forgot to take a picture of this.
Soak the tire in warm water for a while and tighten it around the rim:
The result is impressive.
The narrow part of the rim protrudes slightly beyond the rim flange. I placed the wheel there and turned it. The entire wheel is nice and straight and balanced.
Up to 5 other wheels ...... 5x72=360 spokes to go.
Regards, Peter
Oh my! That's quite a process. Steady hands needed with the tweezers!
I’m a bit taken aback, and now I’m debating which is more challenging: planking the hull or installing those spokes.
Thanks, Paul and Jim. You have to take your time, patience and study. And don’t hesitate to start again when it doesn’t look good.
Regards, Peter
Welcome back Peter,
That was a busy downhill from the Marmolada, nice red slope by the way, it fits your Uhlenhaut interior.
That was a busy downhill from the Marmolada, nice red slope by the way, it fits your Uhlenhaut interior.
Thanks, Maarten. As we say: ‘Mooi rood is niet lelijk.’ (A beautiful red isn't ugly.)
A well-prepaired red slope is better than a worn-out blue. This red was already in bad condition 11 a.m.
Regards, Peter