I was going to go with the suggestion from the instructions and use a spray primer. I have some handy.
I was going to go with the suggestion from the instructions and use a spray primer. I have some handy.
That should work!
RD- Looking good- and this just came into my mail at the perfect time! I just received MY kit today in the mail!
The first thing noted- is that there were TWO bottoms provided- one in a solid piece- and one in 3 longitudinal pieces- to glue together!
Can anyone advise what the deal with that is? They're both on the same board... is it an option to avoid having to glue the 3 pieces together???
I just hope mine looks as good as yours!
The first thing noted- is that there were TWO bottoms provided- one in a solid piece- and one in 3 longitudinal pieces- to glue together!
Can anyone advise what the deal with that is? They're both on the same board... is it an option to avoid having to glue the 3 pieces together???
I just hope mine looks as good as yours!
I'm pretty sure it's optional, in case you want to save a step.
Yes it is an option.
I did figure out the 2 bottoms were to have a choice to assemble the 3 pieces- which is what I did- or use a one- piece bottom.
One thing I figured out as a use for the extra bottom was to clean out the slots at the ends of the extra bottom- and lay it on the bottom that already has the cleats across the bottom-and use that as a guide to line up the stem and the stern pieces when gluing- to try to get them as straight as possible!
Parts are very delicate... working with a headband magnifier helps a great deal!
One thing I figured out as a use for the extra bottom was to clean out the slots at the ends of the extra bottom- and lay it on the bottom that already has the cleats across the bottom-and use that as a guide to line up the stem and the stern pieces when gluing- to try to get them as straight as possible!
Parts are very delicate... working with a headband magnifier helps a great deal!
So I successfully got all my frames assembled- as well as the bottom- without any breakage- and everything is fitting up good! UNTIL I place the frames on the building board... which they are a very snug fit- as they should be.
Thing is, they all tilt about 10 degrees towards the bow!!! Uniformly!
Is this correct?
I would think they should be perpendicular to the building board!
Thing is, they all tilt about 10 degrees towards the bow!!! Uniformly!
Is this correct?
I would think they should be perpendicular to the building board!
One piece is easier but three-piece construction is more accurate. Since plywood was not yet available during the hay day of the Bank dory, the bottom of a dory had to be made up of individual planks. If the boatbuilder had access to wide pine boards, a bottom could be made of three planks. If the boards were narrower, it might require five planks. Fair winds!
Hull primed...
...and painted.
...and painted.
I haven't been to Mystic Seaport in about 35 years. I should really plan a trip next year.
I've got the cap rails primed and painted. I'm not going to start glueing until I figure out how to deal with the gap at the stem end.
Your boat looks great for that gap just put in a small strip of wood, sand it flat to the rail cap and paint it.
Rob
Hhmm. Something seems out of kilter. The breasthook should join the caps (which are green) at the same height as the caps. It ended up below on the gunwales. Also, the sheer planks look to be above the gunwales fore and aft. They should be flush. See the sketch below for a cross section. This is based on information in "The Dory Book". by John Gardner. Note that on some boats each gunwale (port and starboard) was a single piece laying on top of the frames. On others, the gunwale was constructed of separate pieces between the frames. Fair winds!
I think you are mistaken. According to the instructions, the breast hook belongs at the level of the gunwales; it "unites them inside the bow." I did trim the frame too aggressively so the gunwales are lower than they should be.
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Brother Betz:
I did not mean to imply that you did not follow the instructions. The construction looked odd and I wanted to check a trusted source of information to determine the right way to construct a Bank dory; John Gardner falls into that category. Of course, construction methods vary among boatbuilders and it's quite possible that some folks built Bank dories with a breasthook at the gunwales. I see no reason why that wouldn't work. I also found pictures of dories without any breasthook at all (see first picture below), which illustrates how construction details can vary. The second picture is of a dory with the breasthook at the cap rail as specified by Gardner. The third picture is a model built from a Bluejacket kit, which also has the breasthook at the caps. Fair winds!
Interesting variations. It looks like my stem may be too tall also. Oh well. This is my first wooden boat and I'm climbing the learning curve. There are mistakes I'm aware of and there are likely more I'm not. At this point I'm not so much interested in accuracy as having a decent looking final product.
Agree 100%, RD~ this is a beginners model- and just to get it together in some semblance of a nice finished model to display is a challenge in itself! You kind of have to work with how it goes as progress progresses!~|
I think this old saying is appropriate here- the mark of a craftsman is not someone who never makes a mistake- however the mark of a craftsman is someone who can fix and/or hide those mistakes- and still come up with an item to be proud of!
That's how I feel about my Dory I'm just finishing up!
I think this old saying is appropriate here- the mark of a craftsman is not someone who never makes a mistake- however the mark of a craftsman is someone who can fix and/or hide those mistakes- and still come up with an item to be proud of!
That's how I feel about my Dory I'm just finishing up!