Good morning. The two tone looks very good. I love the teak colour for the hull. Cheers Grant
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Misticque, 1/36 - Build Log by Moreplovac
- Thread starter moreplovac
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- Watchers 18
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- Mar 1, 2022
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Dear friend, you are unaware, then you have no guilt, but this guy is a pirate copy from ZHL, although in a different scale, of Corel's Mystique SM 21.
Yeah, but I already decided to use paint... needs to test my airbrush
Pirate of a pirate
? Good luck and welcome to the Mystique building crew... ask me if you have any questions...
My planking exercise keeps me busy... and very curvy hull is giving me some challenging times... it appears that this darker wood is very generous when it comes to twisting, just need a bit or either water, alcohol or anything water based to have it very flexible. Have not tried a wine yet... For those weird angles I am using CA mostly and white glue to cover holes. I lost lots of skin so my fingerprints will not be acceptable on any border for some time .
Planks were covering water openings so needed to drill a small hole from the inside just to point place for triangular file... also area where I planing to use a file to widen the openings, covered with CA to keep the plank strong and not prune to splitting and cracking but still careful usage of file is required..
Happy modelling..
.Planks were covering water openings so needed to drill a small hole from the inside just to point place for triangular file... also area where I planing to use a file to widen the openings, covered with CA to keep the plank strong and not prune to splitting and cracking but still careful usage of file is required..
Happy modelling..
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That's for after the planking.
I think planking this challenging curved model, I broke every single rule in planking steps
Getting to the last few planks and preparing the hull for nice amount of scrapping and sanding before layer of paint will be applied..
On the inside side of planking, I run lines of CA glue to the gun openings to harden planks so they will be hard to break during opening process. In the past I had some issues with split or broken planks when holes are drilled and sanded around gun opening and hopefully this step will prevent it.
Happy modelling..
Getting to the last few planks and preparing the hull for nice amount of scrapping and sanding before layer of paint will be applied..
On the inside side of planking, I run lines of CA glue to the gun openings to harden planks so they will be hard to break during opening process. In the past I had some issues with split or broken planks when holes are drilled and sanded around gun opening and hopefully this step will prevent it.
Happy modelling..
Good morning. These Xebec hulls are sneaky. Especially when using brittle veneer to plank with. I remember having a few boxing matches with my veneer.I think planking this challenging curved model, I broke every single rule in planking steps
Getting to the last few planks and preparing the hull for nice amount of scrapping and sanding before layer of paint will be applied..
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On the inside side of planking, I run lines of CA glue to the gun openings to harden planks so they will be hard to break during opening process. In the past I had some issues with split or broken planks when holes are drilled and sanded around gun opening and hopefully this step will prevent it.
Happy modelling..
. Some sanding, paint and 
those curves will look sexy as these Xebecs are 
. ( If I remember you are painting your hull). Cheers Grant.
Hello, yeah, I will paint the hull, just because of the weird experience with planks, maybe next one will be done with no paint..Good morning. These Xebec hulls are sneaky. Especially when using brittle veneer to plank with. I remember having a few boxing matches with my veneer.
Cheers
The planking has been completed; now the work continues with scrapping, sanding, potentially filling some holes, marking the paint lines and waterline and painting. On this one I will try doing airbrush the first time on wooden ship if I can locate some safe space protected from paint and well ventilated to leave ship/paint to dry. That will be interesting...
Happy modelling..
Happy modelling..
Some sanding was done; now I am working on opening gun and oar ports. Dropping a line of CA glue around port openings and veneer on the outside, helped keeping veneer from breaking and splitting.
Also, I working on filling those water openings to keep them nice and tidy..
Once I complete with port work, I will run one more layer of red colour on the bulwark, to cover some dark spots and tiny marks caused by work on ports..
Happy modelling.
Also, I working on filling those water openings to keep them nice and tidy..
Once I complete with port work, I will run one more layer of red colour on the bulwark, to cover some dark spots and tiny marks caused by work on ports..
Happy modelling.
That’s coming along very nicely, well done.
A true story
Touch up of a red colour is completed and protective blue tape removed.
Today I continue with assembly, attaching the "board", not sure the name but it is located 2mm under the lower port opening side. The board was painted in black first then glued with CA and left drying secured with clamps. The challenging part is towards the bow, where curving is manageable but need some soaking and bending.
First I measured 2mm distance and run a layer of panter' tape as a reference point.. Then just glueing and securing..
Happy modelling..
Today I continue with assembly, attaching the "board", not sure the name but it is located 2mm under the lower port opening side. The board was painted in black first then glued with CA and left drying secured with clamps. The challenging part is towards the bow, where curving is manageable but need some soaking and bending.
First I measured 2mm distance and run a layer of panter' tape as a reference point.. Then just glueing and securing..
Happy modelling..
My work on the bulwark continue, adding more boards and secure them with clamps, nothing exciting here...
Just to break routine a bit, I started assembling some other parts.
Cut them from the frame, light sand to remove some laser burns... then put them on the deck to visualize the setup..
There are needs to sand a bit these longer parts in order to accommodate curvature of the deck..
Then after all is sanded and tested, I put them together since it will be easier to paint assembled unit (I mean assembled as much as possible) instead of one piece at a time. I also want to add some simulating spikes by using 0.7mm coper wire...
I worked on two assembly units; first I assembled parts..
.. tested fitting..
.. then drilled the hole using hand drill and 0.7mm bit and pushed in wire. Left some extra wire sticking out since it will be sanded once unit is painted in black.
At the end, the whole unit is painted in black..
Not sure about you friends, but I find it very expensive to buy those "speciality" colours in very small containers like Vallejo paints, particularly for hand painting which I am doing for these parts. Airbrush is probably different story and most likely will not experiment using paint not made for airbrush units... but for hand painting, decided to give it a try with painter' acrylic paints, which can be purchased in bigger containers and for a really small price...
After assembly dries I will give it a light sand with 0000 steel wire and sand the spike simulation... results will follow.
Happy modelling.
Just to break routine a bit, I started assembling some other parts.
Cut them from the frame, light sand to remove some laser burns... then put them on the deck to visualize the setup..
There are needs to sand a bit these longer parts in order to accommodate curvature of the deck..
Then after all is sanded and tested, I put them together since it will be easier to paint assembled unit (I mean assembled as much as possible) instead of one piece at a time. I also want to add some simulating spikes by using 0.7mm coper wire...
I worked on two assembly units; first I assembled parts..
.. tested fitting..
.. then drilled the hole using hand drill and 0.7mm bit and pushed in wire. Left some extra wire sticking out since it will be sanded once unit is painted in black.
At the end, the whole unit is painted in black..
Not sure about you friends, but I find it very expensive to buy those "speciality" colours in very small containers like Vallejo paints, particularly for hand painting which I am doing for these parts. Airbrush is probably different story and most likely will not experiment using paint not made for airbrush units... but for hand painting, decided to give it a try with painter' acrylic paints, which can be purchased in bigger containers and for a really small price...
After assembly dries I will give it a light sand with 0000 steel wire and sand the spike simulation... results will follow.
Happy modelling.