Model VICTORY by Deagostini, scale 1/84

Hello Sasha,
Beautiful work on the copper plating!
Maybe you already mentioned this before, but are you planning on leaving it "all shiny" or will the plating receive a more weathered finish?
After removing the remaining glue, I plan to leave it in its natural form. Over time, the skin will acquire a natural patina. I don't plan on using chemicals.
 
At some point, the idea came to me to rub the sheets with GOYA paste. This is such a hard green stick, for polishing metal surfaces. The result turned out like this. I did not rub the whole body, only part of it. Now I'm wondering if it was even worth it. Shines like a new samovar. On the other hand, at the moment of rubbing, you can see all the places where the glue remains and it can be easily removed.20220629_164958.jpg20220629_165018.jpg
 
Beautiful work Sasha! I agree 100% with your decision to leave the copper plating and not to apply anything to it. From my steamboat modeling days, I know that nature creates the best patina.
 
Friends, hello everyone and have a nice day.
Continuation of the construction of the Victory ship model.
I made guides for the hoists of the gun ports. First, I made a template for marking the drilling sites. Marked over each gun port on the lower two decks of the gondek and middeldek. I drilled holes with a diameter of 1.5 mm and a depth of 5 mm. I cut pieces from a brass tube and inserted them into the holes. After processing the sides, I will blacken the ends of the tubes already in place. Photo result
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I installed the anchors yesterday. How I did it: first marked out the places for installing the fairleads, drilled holes for the tube. Brass tube with an outer diameter of 4 mm and an inner diameter of 3.4 mm. I made a template, cut the tube according to the depth of the template. I inserted the tube into the template and flared it. I did it with such a tool (this is a round profile scriber). from below, under the template, he placed an anvil. It turned out to be a clef as in the photo.
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