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Modelship Dockyard - New Kit [Modelship Dockyard] PoF H.M.S. Enterprize 1774, the 1/48 version!

It would seem (so my research has concluded) that square nails were indeed a part of French ship construction. Perhaps it was used by other nations as well. With that said, proceed with caution on an English ship, my friend :).

Of course, you are the captain and should do what appeals to your eye and brings your model to the look you want! My work is replete with all manner of departures, and no one has ever complained (well, that's not true...I just try to not let it bother me too much ROTF).
Agree, true.
I'm not a craftsman, just a modeler, i like small details on model.
I'm also a bit intrigued by perfectionist approach, that some people take to a simple model.

If i had to do everything perfectly, i'd kneel in a museum by a display case for two weeks, day and night, and i would come out as stupid as i came in...
Then it would be a matter of who's crazier, you or me... ROTF
 
Agree, true.
I'm not a craftsman, just a modeler, i like small details on model.
I'm also a bit intrigued by perfectionist approach, that some people take to a simple model.

If i had to do everything perfectly, i'd kneel in a museum by a display case for two weeks, day and night, and i would come out as stupid as i came in...
Then it would be a matter of who's crazier, you or me... ROTF
Indeed. We are all a bit crazy building tiny ships that no one cares about with the exception of other crazy people building tiny ships :rolleyes:.
 
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Interesting solution and I am guessing they would look great. Hope you post some photos when you get them. I have always just gone with copper wire and made nails as I can use these as is, then once in place and wiped clean with some water to get the filings removed, blacken in place with diluted liver of sulfur as it will not stain the wood. I cannot find any contemporary drawings that show square heads so only used round stock, but would love to see drawings that show the square nails.

Allan
FWIW the "Ed Tosti" method is the best I've ever seen/used and faster than anything I've ever seen.
Simple black monofilament in a few diameters, simply glue, snip, sand down, perfect where iron nails were used. The copper wire system works as well for joints exposed to water.
 
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Indeed. We are all a bit crazy building tiny ships that no one cares about with the exception of other people building tiny ships :rolleyes:.
Not a surprise that something as complicated as a full scratch requires modes adjustments and adaptations.
I suspect complete revision of all instructions would have resulted in higher pricing.
I've had a couple curve balls but.....you work them out in the end
 
Sounds like a nice home made draw plate! I just use a regular draw plate with holes down to 0.016" diameter and my own choice of wood at these small diameters has been bamboo most of the time. Bamboo from skewers at found at the grocery store works really well and the color is very subtle. I slit them to a suitable size then start drawing them as you describe going from the larger holes to the smallest required.
Allan
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nice one Allen 30.00 on amazon
 
SORTED THIS its on the plan Not instructions
The Sheet numbers for the Hanging Knees, Lodging Knees and Beam Arms Please for Lower Deck
I am Looking at D5 which has L2d (Twice)
and D6 which is L1d and C2 which also has L1b and L1d

THANKS
 
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Not a surprise that something as complicated as a full scratch requires modes adjustments and adaptations.
I suspect complete revision of all instructions would have resulted in higher pricing.
I've had a couple curve balls but.....you work them out in the end
But probably not so many REplacement Parts
 
nice one Allen 30.00 on amazon
The one in the photo is from Jim Byrnes that I bought from him when we first met many years ago. It has never failed me. $25 plus freight from Byrnes Machines. Freight and duty may be exorbitant though from Florida to the UK. I have no idea if the one you found is Byrnes, but if not, be careful. I have two others that were less expensive but the holes were not always perfectly round and something not sequential in size . Caveat Emptor.
Allan
 
The one in the photo is from Jim Byrnes that I bought from him when we first met many years ago. It has never failed me. $25 plus freight from Byrnes Machines. Freight and duty may be exorbitant though from Florida to the UK. I have no idea if the one you found is Byrnes, but if not, be careful. I have two others that were less expensive but the holes were not always perfectly round and something not sequential in size . Caveat Emptor.
Allan
think i will find me tobacco tin and/or drill a new one !! its only for light wood !! but thanks
 
if you want tree nails i use small thin square strips
I pull it through an old tobacco tin from 50 tears ago 7 or 8 different sizes of holes an pull the wood through successive smaller holes
Will try and fid it - i do need it!!
What a great idea. I have some of my old jewellery drawplates somewhere, but they work in a different way. I had considered abrading the flat side and using them backwards for wood, but the tobacco tin idea is great. Just need some thin steel sheet.
 
What a great idea. I have some of my old jewellery drawplates somewhere, but they work in a different way. I had considered abrading the flat side and using them backwards for wood, but the tobacco tin idea is great. Just need some thin steel sheet.
any decent tin will do its just the right size and new tin boxes / cans are thinner
 
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