Its a good tool for bending wide stock. And I bet the temp isn't a big issue because the wetted wood only needs heating for relatively short periods. And there is a possibility the current can be regulated with potentiometer or a variac transformer. But it is designed for bending wood so I 'm betting it isn't a big problem.
For the painting I use an airbrush with a 1.5 stroke and a pressure of 1.4 bar. I use the dyes without dilution. First the black patina which, as soon as it dries, I remove with a 240 grit sponge. Next, depending on the piece to be painted, I use the mahogany dye and the walnut dye, airbrushing with light coats and smoothing between coats. For the bridge, before painting, I completed the nailing with 0.9mm holes, then I used the black patin and the oak dye. In the end, only on the bulkheads, I gave a first coat of oil
Hi, I found that the 30W iron worked fine the three or four times I used it. I think the problem was how the iron was manufactured. I do a lot micro-electronic circuit builds and have quite a few soldering irons of different wattages. All of them have some sort of mechanical protection around the irons heat element. Some have metal rings and others have an air gap.
Hi Don, thank you for your post. I did check out the Amazon tool. Looks like a great way to bend stock. My experiment was to see if the tool on Pavel's videos was a better solution to gluing the planks at the bow of the Galleon by applying heat versus trying to figure to how to temporarily clamp the plank while the glue set. More curiosity than any thing else. As I posted above I'm quite happy with the plank bending tools I got from Hans.
Good morning Jan. Playing a little catch up this morning. You certainly did a proper job on that soldering iron- excellent work
. Scarf joints on the curve of the bow are always going to be a a problem child. Is it not a solution to glue each plank separately to the hull rather than pre join them? It does mean you will have to get the bend of each half of the scarf joints perfect tho? This way the water and heat won’t affect the bond of the PVa? Cheers Grant
A good point Grant. I did try that method, unfortunately most of the scarf joints are either at the edges or span the space between frames. I couldn’t properly clamp the separate pieces to get a good fit. I haven’t started planking the starboard side yet, so I have a lot of time to come up with a solution. Another lesson for the “How To Do This Manual”.
What if you build a support structure between the bulkheads where the scarf joints are going to be ? This could also be done in a way to use clips to hold the scarf joints in place while they dry….or maybe use fillers between the bulkheads and some tiny “removable “nails Anyway you will make a plan for sure. Cheers GrantA good point Grant. I did try that method, unfortunately most of the scarf joints are either at the edges or span the space between frames. I couldn’t properly clamp the separate pieces to get a good fit. I haven’t started planking the starboard side yet, so I have a lot of time to come up with a solution. Another lesson for the “How To Do This Manual”.
Jan
Grant,
Hi Don, thanks for stopping by.
Good job.
Hi Heinrich, great to see you have stopped by. The garboard strake is precut, as are all the other strakes. With that in mind there is very little wiggle room placing them. With my
"Vast Experience" planking and fairing hulls, I find that planking is still a skill to be mastered. Oh yes indeed, I depend a lot on the YouTube videos and try to replicate what I see. There are no written instructions, the plans are a good indication of the parts placement, but there also have been a few "head scratchers".
Hi,
