NORSKE LOVE - Billing Boats 1:75 scale

Dean, you have most likely come across this issue but, for a newb, it is not particularly obvious. I observed the blocks you placed horizontally between the bulkheads and quickly learned that, if they are not as per instructions, they should be. I have a kit from the 70's which is not precut - for the most part. It has no instructions, only plans. I have recently downloaded the plans from Billing to follow step by step but found your log to be far superior for this purpose. When cutting the upper bulkhead spacer blocks, I referred to the download plans for length. The scale of my plans is not the same. The 60mm space between BH8 and BH9 is, on my plan, 59.5mm. The 57.5mm space between BH9 and BH10 is, on my plan, 57mm. Since errors in the same direction are cumulative, it eventually makes a considerable difference to the fit of other parts. LESSON LEARNED .... use the same reference for measurements or be prepared to cut or fill!
 
ogopogo said:
Dean, you have most likely come across this issue but, for a newb, it is not particularly obvious. I observed the blocks you placed horizontally between the bulkheads and quickly learned that, if they are not as per instructions, they should be. I have a kit from the 70's which is not precut - for the most part. It has no instructions, only plans. I have recently downloaded the plans from Billing to follow step by step but found your log to be far superior for this purpose. When cutting the upper bulkhead spacer blocks, I referred to the download plans for length. The scale of my plans is not the same. The 60mm space between BH8 and BH9 is, on my plan, 59.5mm. The 57.5mm space between BH9 and BH10 is, on my plan, 57mm. Since errors in the same direction are cumulative, it eventually makes a considerable difference to the fit of other parts. LESSON LEARNED .... use the same reference for measurements or be prepared to cut or fill!
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Unfortunately the instructions are a set of full scale plans and a book with some isometric views and very little text. You have to look ahead always and determine what is the logical order to build it. There is no step by step instructions, which you have determined. I suspect it is because they label the kit as an expert level kit. Therefore they assume you have already built many ships before and don’t need explicit step by step instructions.
I compared the spacing dimensions in the booklet to the full scale plans to verify actual needed spacing. I also added spacers at the top of the bulkheads below the deck height to ensure they were all parallel to one another and perpendicular to the keel. This also adds more structural integrity to the hull assembly. This ensures everything remains aligned when planking. This is very helpful since there is so much planking, and it will be a lot of time between start to finish! ;)
 
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Heinrich said:
I get the fact that the keel ends have to be joined via a centre board. I get how the frames are mounted on the "keel" - that is sort of a nice difference and slightly more challenging. But why oh why are there differences in the thickness of the wood ??? It is not as if that is going to test building skill - especially not yours. So in my book that just goes down as an irritation and poor execution by the manufacturer.

Glad to hear that you are not going for the yellow/black look!
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tipecal from Billing Boats. I have built both the NOT laser cut version and in 1980 yh when laser-cut came on the market -the model was in fact from the son Kent of Mr Billing as a gift for the help to find a distributor in Spain. Repaired two more
 
RDN1954 said:
Morning Dean,

A well written and illustrated tutorial on how to ensure your frames are aligned, parallel to one another, perpendicular to your reference frame... I am most pleased with the relative simplicity (but no less effective) of your solution; in that regard I am a fervent supporter of the KISS-axiom.
The one thing that bugged me over the weekend was the 57,5mm lengths for your distance holders, just not understanding where that particular dimension was coming from. I remembered seeing a pitch of 60mm between bulkheads, but I missed the 57,5mm dimension.
But I found it; in post #15, you show figure 1A of the build plans and there it's shown; the lengths of the distance holders.
In another post, from Henk Liebre, another method was described and illustrated on the application of temporary distance holders, in this case for the POF Bluenose.
What Henk's and your posts underline for me is the importance of getting a proper "foundation"; if you get this wrong, the rest of one's build will be bothersome, at best. In the case of the partially exposed frames of the POF BN esthetics also play an important role.
And for me, I don't mind a single bit you sharing your methods on SOS, please keep doing just that!

Johan
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RDN1954 said:
Morning Dean,

A well written and illustrated tutorial on how to ensure your frames are aligned, parallel to one another, perpendicular to your reference frame... I am most pleased with the relative simplicity (but no less effective) of your solution; in that regard I am a fervent supporter of the KISS-axiom.
The one thing that bugged me over the weekend was the 57,5mm lengths for your distance holders, just not understanding where that particular dimension was coming from. I remembered seeing a pitch of 60mm between bulkheads, but I missed the 57,5mm dimension.
But I found it; in post #15, you show figure 1A of the build plans and there it's shown; the lengths of the distance holders.
In another post, from Henk Liebre, another method was described and illustrated on the application of temporary distance holders, in this case for the POF Bluenose.
What Henk's and your posts underline for me is the importance of getting a proper "foundation"; if you get this wrong, the rest of one's build will be bothersome, at best. In the case of the partially exposed frames of the POF BN esthetics also play an important role.
And for me, I don't mind a single bit you sharing your methods on SOS, please keep doing just that!

Johan
Click to expand...
Being one of the newcomers present I thoroughly enjoy the tutorials. This site being practically the only place available For us beginners. I have purchased three books on ship modeling and none of them teach how to do anything. So please keep up the good work.
I know this thread is older so I'm not looking for a response, I just wanted to thank you for the time you take to help us beginners.
Ted
 
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