NORWAY`S HMS BLANDFORD CROSS SECTION BUILD 1-32

Jimsky

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Hello Knut, I am really impressed with the shot locker you made. Your precise preparation is paid off! Thumbs-Up And again, you show unlimited possibilities for 'Lego' blocks. Please keep up your great work! :cool:
 

Norway

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Thanks friends, Yes Jim, Lego is fine to have in hand when you need something that is angled.
 

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What is their opinion on this test ?.
test (1).jpgtest (2).jpgtest (3).jpg
Should I mark the space between the boards this way or should I just leave it as it is, just fine-tune and poly.
The sample you see in the pictures is made with the tool you can see and a layer of linseed oil / poly.
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Jimsky

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Hello Knut. Personally, I like the way it is. However, we darken between the planks to represent the caulking used on decks and hull. Here, in the shot locker, I don't believe they where using caulking. You can try, however, chamfer each adjacent plank. Take a look at some photos of how @bibigon Sergey (Bibigon) made those planks.


file(23).jpg

file(24).jpg

file(25).jpg


file(26).jpg
Hope you like it.
 

Uwek

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I agree here with Jim. For inside construction, also the inner planking were not caulked, only the outside planking and deck planking to make the hull watertight (as much as possible).
I would also slightly chamfer them (appr. 1/4 of thickness), like shown in the second and the following photos shown by Jim.
 

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Thanks for your good advice Uwe and Jim, then I can do the same procedure but without a pencil, then it will be more clearly distinguishable between the boards.
I have now made hatches and door, door frame, and doing exercises in brass work (hinges), showing later in the process.
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DocBlake

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I don’t use a pencil to simulate caulking on inboard structures. I use it to highlight the individual planks. Once the poly goes on, the pencil graphite has a “shadow” effect...kind of like the dry brushing technique our plastic modeling friends use to make a mono color military uniform look real by painting in wrinkles and folds. The effect is not stark black like caulk, but more a grayish-brown shadow between boards. Just my preference.
 
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Norway

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A little more work with shotlocer, brass hinges that will be fine-tuned and blackened with brass black,
the door is also made and will also be fine tuned,
finally a test for how to mark the distinction between the planks of the bulkhead.
brass door hatshes (1).jpgbrass door hatshes (2).jpgbrass door hatshes (3).jpgbrass door hatshes (4).jpgbrass door hatshes (5).jpg
Regards-
 

Jimsky

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A little more work with shotlocer, brass hinges that will be fine-tuned and blackened with brass black,
the door is also made and will also be fine tuned,
finally a test for how to mark the distinction between the planks of the bulkhead.
Hello Knut, The distinction between planks looks great!!!! I like the frame around the door, however, if you don't mind, the brass hinges look a bit wide, specifically on the door. But this is my view only... ;)
 

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Very good work and progress.

Hello Knut, The distinction between planks looks great!!!! I like the frame around the door, however, if you don't mind, the brass hinges look a bit wide, specifically on the door. But this is my view only... ;)
I have to agree here with Jim - I would also narrow the hinges a little bit, looking a little bit oversized
 

Norway

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Lower deck beams.
The beams are roughly fitted and dry mounted, added to the knees too just to see what I need to do later.
a.jpg

As you can see, my drawings do not match in size, I make all the parts according to this pattern and adjust them to fit, not correct according to the plans but it will look about the same.
b.jpg

The pattern is glued to the deck beams and is ready for further work.
c.jpg

Finally, my workbench indoors, no room to make a lot of dust here.
m.jpg

Regards-
 

Uwek

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Looking good - good progress
And you have a nice (and warm) indoor working place - with chocolate for the breaks :cool:
Or do you use the Toblerone only for the possible comparison of size? ;)
 
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