NORWAY`S HMS BLANDFORD CROSS SECTION BUILD 1-32

Thanks Shane, I hope you follow Dave`s, building log as a reference, since I've already made some mistakes, but this is the first model I build this way (pof).
At least it can be said that this is a very nice way to learn about this construction method.
 
Lathe - cannon
I have never done this before, first attempt.
The cannon is made of birch, drilled hole for shaft, I made dust extraction of cardboard, saw some mistakes, see arrows, then loosen, lock screw (arrow), then everything collapses, but I'm happy since I've never tried this before, the next try will probably be a lot easier.

Regards-

c (1).jpgc (3).jpgc (4).jpgc (6).jpgd.jpg​
 
Hello Knut, I have a question about your scroll saw. The main question is about the saw blade. Are you using a Medium or Fine saw blade and really to be more specific, do you know how many Teeth Per MM (or sometimes called TPI= Teeth Per Inch) but since you are metric, I am not sure how your saw blade is rated.
The blade in my scroll saw is rated
Denture Standard / Diente regular 15DPP / 15TPI
Width = 3.0 mm
thickness = 0.5 mm

I do have a thinner finner blade Denture Standard / Diente regular 18.5 DPP / 18.5 TPI
Width = 2mm
thickness = .24mm

I also like the way you fix the cannon template to wood stock. I must increase my knowledge.
 
Hello Knut. The result is very good for the first attempt. Repetition will allow you to grasp the techniques and every next one will be just better. But wait...beside they have to look good, the barrels must be identical (I mean close to being identical). One of the methods is to make a profile template. I made a sketch (freehand) yours should follow the shape of your barrel, but you get an idea. You can make one out of cardboard, but a better way, IMHO, to use thin brass or thin aluminum plate (0.8 mm). The reason for those materials, they much easy to shape than steel. As you turn the next barrel, you will check constantly with the template until the barrel touches each shape (without space) ;)

IMG_1149.jpeg​
 
Donnie said:
Hello Knut, I have a question about your scroll saw. The main question is about the saw blade. Are you using a Medium or Fine saw blade and really to be more specific, do you know how many Teeth Per MM (or sometimes called TPI= Teeth Per Inch) but since you are metric, I am not sure how your saw blade is rated.
The blade in my scroll saw is rated
Denture Standard / Diente regular 15DPP / 15TPI
Width = 3.0 mm
thickness = 0.5 mm

I do have a thinner finner blade Denture Standard / Diente regular 18.5 DPP / 18.5 TPI
Width = 2mm
thickness = .24mm

I also like the way you fix the cannon template to wood stock. I must increase my knowledge.
Click to expand...
Hallo Donnie,
take a look at this page, which is explaining the differences in the blades very good
scrollsawer.com

Choosing the Right Blade - Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts

Simple guidelines for matching the blade to the pattern and wood.
scrollsawer.com

and I know that you like videos also

 
Norway said:
Lathe - cannon
I have never done this before, first attempt.
The cannon is made of birch, drilled hole for shaft, I made dust extraction of cardboard, saw some mistakes, see arrows, then loosen, lock screw (arrow), then everything collapses, but I'm happy since I've never tried this before, the next try will probably be a lot easier.

Regards-

Click to expand...
your first attempt is looking very good Thumbsup
 
Donnie, to be perfectly honest I don't know, I bought the thinnest and narrowest I could find, if I find packaging then I'll give you an answer.

Jim, the plan is to create a cannon that I'm happy with, and use this as a template to cast with epoxy. thank you for your good advice.
 
I guess original hinges were between 7 to 10 cm, the door-hinge maybe 15cm wide - so in the scale 1:48 somehow 1,5 to 2mm and for door 3mm wide.
For me they are looking good Thumbsup will you add some rivets also?
 
Great work, Knut!
Additionally to Jim's advise I would make a little tool to turn identical reinforcement rings. This looks exactly like the moulding tool for special profiles. The profile is ground into a broken or dull Exacto blade so that its handle is used for holding the blade while turning the profiles.
Janos
 
Uwe, Yes I will try to make one nail per plank, door and hatches, I will also make an addition to each hinge, I will show later.

Janos, I'm turning a new cannon tomorrow, if it gets good, then I'll use it to cast four copies, good tips you gave, I'll try to create such a profile just for the rings on the cannon. worth a try.

Dave, thanks, then the race goes on.
 
Cannon.
The first attempt turned into a key bundle.
1 nøkkelknippe.jpg
Attempt number two, forget a ring, then crack it just before finishing.
2 knekk.jpg
The third attempt is by leaving a tip of 8mm at each end so that I can fasten the workpiece to the motor side only, for a more controlled finish, the chuck in the picture is 8.3mm inside.
3 neste.jpg4 chuck.jpg
..
 
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