NORWAY`S HMS BLANDFORD CROSS SECTION BUILD 1-32

Hallo Knut,
very good progress with all these frame parts Thumbs-Up

Which type of saw you used for cutting the parts? Scroll saw or band saw?

One small hint: do not rush when you are cutting - The saw shall do the work without big pressure of the wood against the blade.
Slowly but surely
Than you can follow much better the lines on the paper of the frames and will not loose the direction
 
A little more equipment to test before the bonding of the frames begins.
Drawing plate - 30 days from order until it arrived in the mail, twice as expensive due to customs and fees. is not available for sale in norway.
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Blackboard paint that gets the appearance of ebony with a top layer of wood oil. I hope.
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Dave's needlework technique for nails.
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Thin black board for spacer deck planks, needles for glue applicator, black ink to make black glue.
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White wood glue and black ink to make black glue.
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I know that old boat builders used tar between all parts when they mounted frames, I want to try with black glue.
And it's just trying.
 
Uwe, I used the Scroll saw , the problem was just that I had glued the patterns
too close together on the material, finally I got out all the parts with
some extra meat on the sides. I have also sanded the outer and inner edges, the next step is to adjust
the frames to the keel.
 
Tree nails, first attempt, Holly.
Started by planing down the material 2.5mm, it took so long to pull that I started again.

The pictures show material that is 1.4mm which I have drawn down to 1.0mm and 1.2mm.
After cutting the material into strips I sanded it a bit rounder before I started drawing through the plate.
a (1).jpga (2).jpgb.jpgc.jpgd.jpge.jpg

A real shit job that could certainly be made much easier and faster.

Is there anyone out there who can tell how to make this work easier and faster.
I am open to all suggestions !.
 
Roger, it's a technique I should try, thank you.

Dave, What is a Drexel, I use a flat nose plier
to pull the material through smaller and smaller holes until I get the right dimension.
I have a drawing plate model from the model expo, do you know someone else who has this type
and are they happy ?.
Finally, thank you for all the attention.
 
Hi Knut,
I kinda agree with you: it is not the fastest nor the easiest method. You have to use a lot of force to pull. For the drawplate to work good on wood the flat (opposite) side must be perfectly ground to make a sharp edge. Note: for the wire to pull, this is not necessary, as you pull wire starting from the opposite side (see my sketch below)

IMG_0403.jpeg
 
Thanks for the information Jim, as your drawing shows, I draw the tree the right way,
Holly is a rather hard tree, and therefore breaks very fast.
Another thing I wonder is? is there anyone who has said that they have been sanded carefully on the side you are pulling off?
The plate I have is almost no opening on the holes below 1mm.
Thank you for following.
 
I have made some 'holy' treenails 0.6 - 0.7mm. They are not easy to make as from pearwood. Try different wood stock, and play with wood drawing direction. one hole from one end, the next hole from another.

...or you can sharpen your holy as toothpicks (both ends) using disk sander. This is the method @Maarten uses on his Carolina build. He just uses birch (if I am not mistaken) toothpicks.
 
Sample 1.
Stain and 50% vater.
nails (1).jpgnails (2).jpg

Materials are glued to pre-dried black paper, separated and glued together on a sample plate.
nails (3).jpgnails (4).jpgnails (6).jpg

Mark some holes with pencil and glued in the trenails.
nails (7).jpgnails (8).jpg

nedel tip I cut and sharpened, warmed it up before I made marks on the tables.
Not quite successful, after grinding the tables.
nails (9).jpgnails (10).jpgnails (11).jpg

Two layers of three oil, result.
nails (12).jpgnails (13).jpg

This is a test, something I've learned from and will improve later.
Kindly no April 1 commentaries, thank you.
 

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Steve, drawingplate can also be used to adjust the dimension of, for example, brass wire,
In my opinion, it is much more pretty with wooden nails in the same material as the planks they should be in.
Greeting-
 
@SteveA We have a number of threads in regards to different methods\techniques while treenail. It turns out it just a matter of personal preference, scale, and experience. A lot of our members use toothpicks as their method to treenail and archive awesome results. I like using drawplate (if possible) as treenails are more round and it just a matter of glue-and-insert. Also, it gives you flexibility on the material to choose from. I also like using wood putty on small scales.

@Norway I like how your sample treenails look, both using a blunt needle or drawplate. I would even say that a blunt needle looks better (IMHO). Treenails are perfectly rounded and look prominent. They are a bit bigger, though. You may look for a smaller diameter if decided to use blunt needle. :cool:
 
Some more samples.
Black ink and glue are mixed, dosing the ink with the syringe and making a sample.
black (1).jpgblack (2).jpgblack (3).jpgblack (4).jpg


Then I add two layers of oil, result.
black (5).jpgblack (6).jpgblack (7).jpg

Black water-based stain on birch two layers and two layers of oil,
Same with holly.
black (8).jpgblack (9).jpgblack (10).jpgblack (11).jpg

Holly, two layers of paint and two layers of oil, very poor results, should never be used.
black (12).jpgblack (13).jpg


Later I make samples of various types with bolts.
 
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