Panart: San Felipe 1:75 Scale Build Log [COMPLETED BUILD]

Thanks guys. Well, what is next, I cannot and will not take credit for. Someone on this forum had this idea and I hope you do not mind me using your idea -- I cannot remember who it was or what build it was. This is what I would refer to as a Dead Eye Hold Down Jig. This is a brilliant idea - whoever came up with this. Of course the entire upper row will be fixed with the deadeyes. This will make rigging the shrouds faster and easier - I hope.

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Completed one side - not too bad, just about a late evening work for a couple of hours- then the other side next. A pin vise was used while I was holding the deadeye. Tweezers was used to simply push the nail in - no hammering needed.

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Thanks guys.
Well, this does really make things a lot easier. As you can see, once the dead-eye is fixed , I then take it off the jig temporarily and it is then held in a hands free tool. I have a weight on the hands free tool and that keeps the line tight and I can use both hands to seize the shroud. Then I put the dead-eye back on.
(again, I wish I could remember where I saw this. It was probably here and I must give the other person credit as soon as I find out who it was)

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The one I made is this one below I used the little eyebolts that come in the kits to hold the eyes in place while I run the shrouds once I have the shroud around the eye where I want it I put a tiny dab of glue on the line to ensure it doesn't move once dry I remove the line with eye attached and serve the line by hand. makes getting your dead eyes in a nice straight line much easier as with the jig they will all be the same length provided you pull the shrouds the same tension. I don't want to clog up this post so if you need more info shoot me a PM Brother
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Nice, Donny I use hemostats to lock the thread, they are at lot heaver and provide the right weight to pull a line taught, plus they grip the line very tight with no slip. You can get then on ebay very cheap. They come in varying lenghts and mak easy to get to difficult locations.
 
Hi Donnie

I have spent several hours over two nights reading your log right from the beginning.You display great patience and problem solving ability throughout the build to cope with the many pitfalls of this kit.Quite a few of us indulge in kitbashing but that doesn't give the manufacturer the excuse to manufacture kits like this.If I bought a kit and wished to build it out of the box,I would expect it to go together as intended.
I have always been an admirer of this kit but decided to buy Panart's plan and instruction pack when they made so many changes to the design.They are sat in a cupboard for a possible future build.Panart as you are aware,got the positioning of the vertical cannon support blocks wrong in their first version,as did Sergal with the Soleil Royal(I found that out when it was too late).They have obviously realised this,so why did they embarrass themselves further and make a hash of it the second time around?I can understand why some of these European manufacturers get such critiscism.
I personally I am not a fan of all the lasercut parts.Not because of the appearance,the decks look great on your model,but because the builder is boxed into a corner when accumulative dimensional errors appear.Try to conceal any adjustments is next to impossible.This will happen because this is a wood kit not injection moulded plastic.No two modelers will fair they frames exactly the same nor will they sand the first planking the same.This is why these precut items will always be a battle to fit.
Despite all the issues,your build is wonderful,you should be justifyably proud of the uphill struggle you have conquered to get where it stands today.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Thank you all for your compliments and to Nigel, yes, there are a lot of things that are wrong. Some things, I just had to "carry on" and not deal with it. I found out way early in the framing that the REFERENCE point for the deck height on the plans were really wrong - as this sets the stage for how the cannons were going to line up with the cannon port lids. I have seen other builds of this panart, and it is unfortunate that I read some of the builders comments that were not good at all when they got to the point of installing the cannons only to realize that the port lids "bottom of lids" are virtually right on the deck floor which would force the cannons to point seriously downward. I also saw some builders that just cut the wheels in half to lower the cannons. I saw a lot of frustrations from builders. But, I found this out after I started on the kit, not before. I think the best San Felipe is from China and almost bought it, but someone said that the color of the rigging line was not correct or something like that. But, I am sure that it has been corrected. I think ZHL claims that they constantly make revisions to their kits to reflect what the customers find.
I am afraid that the Euro market is going to be left out soon if they do not take some serious measures. I guess what they depend on are the first builders (that do not know).
 
Latest:
as you can see the dead eye hold-down assembly has been released from the channel and moved onto the deck. The dead eyes are taken off one at a time and the lanyards can be rigged. This really makes rigging the Shrouds much more pleasant. I went ahead and put a line through each starting point of each dead eye.

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Donnie said:
Thanks guys.
Well, this does really make things a lot easier. As you can see, once the dead-eye is fixed , I then take it off the jig temporarily and it is then held in a hands free tool. I have a weight on the hands free tool and that keeps the line tight and I can use both hands to seize the shroud. Then I put the dead-eye back on.
(again, I wish I could remember where I saw this. It was probably here and I must give the other person credit as soon as I find out who it was)

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It was me Donnie :) I used this technik in my San Francisco II. By the way i am happy to contribute to your build.

Best regards.
 
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