Panart: San Felipe 1:75 Scale Build Log [COMPLETED BUILD]

Ok, let me see if I can answer this. Yes, my model is the art 747 and this is the start build date of November 14, 2016. So this model is from this particular era of production. Now, I do not know when this box was actually put together with the contents.

1) No plastic parts in this kit. All metal parts such as cannon barrels, the ornamentation on the stern, and figurehead all metal. Upper Deck Canon Port openings on main deck all metal. the other cannon port lids for lower decks all fabricated out of wood. All stern parts are mostly metal. In other words, as I said are NO plastic parts
2) No rigging blocks for the Cannon Carriages. I did not do this as the scale just too small. I would have had to order smaller blocks in the 1mm x 1mm or less in size to make the scale seem more realistic. to me, it is best to go without blocks on carriages rather than load up all the carriages with blocks too large as it really takes away the look.

Note: the MAIN deck had to be lowered (if I remember about 3mm) so that Cannon Carriages would sit on deck correctly. I have seen several models of this era that they modelers had to either remove the Carriage Wheels or make their own carriages because the deck is too high. The cannons will not even enter the Port Frame openings. I found this out before going further. You will see this in my log early on.

If I am following you right, you already have in your possession the art 747 Panart kit but it is from a long time ago. Is this correct? If so, then the Cannon Carriage placement issue with deck too high might not be an issue at that time.

To add more to this situation, if I had known more, I would have purchased my San Felipe from the ZHL model - their version of the San Felipe is so much better. The Panart was terrible. At first, I was very impressed with the amount of laser cut parts and all the fittings. But, it wasn't until actual construction that I ran into problem after problems.

If I can help you in any way - please let me know. I hope that I have answered your questions.
 
Donnie said:
So, I was making an attempt to reproduce what you see in this image I have attached. Each line (on each side) happens to wrap twice around and it is not a very good job.
This, as you know, is in simple terms a Yard Sling. Some slings have pulleys and some do not. While some are even more elaborate with double blocks. The two lines (one on each side) terminate at the bitt rails (located at the base of Mast).

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The oriental way. Denmark, Holland, France and Spain
 
hi donnie. do you know if cornwall have cannon kits for the san filippe? i would like to buy some for my model. all i have seen are cannon kits with out the blocking that hold the wheels. if not do you know where i can buy these? regards terry
 
Terry,
No luck with Cornwall Model - try this link for Model Expo as they have several sizes to choose from - wooden parts/kits - fittings. Since the carriages are made of wood, you can drill your own holes to mount the ring-bolts for your carriage rigging. I had bought several to test to see if I wanted to use them on my Santisima Trinidad, but I changed my mind. Here is the link to fittings: https://modelexpo-online.com/Cannons_c_68-2.html

This is an image taken from my Trinidad log showing the carriages from Model Shipways (Model Expo) Probably, the MS0662 will be more to accurate size - You might have to contact M.E. to see if they still carry it. eBay might have this as I was searching there.

Then lastly, I found this on ebay with a 38mm cannon-carriage kit.
www.ebay.com

Model Shipways MS0668 Cannon & Carriage 38mm | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Model Shipways MS0668 Cannon & Carriage 38mm at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

The assumption is that the dimension of f.e. 38mm is the cannon barrel lengh and NOT the carriage length.



samplecannon02.jpg​
 
Gary,
I'm currently finishing my first model ship "The Snake" and was amazed by the craftsman ship you put into your model and it was the inspiration for me to join this group. Just recently I purchased the PANART HMS Victory and the Sergal Sovereign of The Seas models and am looking forward to viewing your build as I begin sometime this summer
 
Hello Donnie,
I kind of need some guidance on the practice of generating a build log. I have an idea but would like some pointers. And yes, I have some good photos to upload here shortly. Yesterday was the first time I was able to return to the build due to many priority projects on the burner. I was up at 5:00 AM to review preps for the yards. ( basically the last of what needs to be finished) And of course it was like an exciting return home to roost. I am currently building a gothic shaped roof on a new storage building to provide room for extraneous items crowding my existing shop area. It is something I have always wanted to build and am finding it to be a fun challenge.

Hello Jim,
Thank you for the interest and I will upload some pics as mentioned above.

Rich
 
It is a Ryobi. By the way, I need to move your post at some point into your own personal build log.
kindly
Donald
 
Proud tower, I assume that by your question - are you referring to some saw that I used on the Panart Build log? I am not sure - since this is the only question and no other references, I can only assume this is what you need. I have many saws that I use. Do you mean Scroll Saw, Table Saw, hand saw? Can you be more specific?
 
Hello Donnie

Very Nice Build Pleasure to look at...Followed your log and made note of the issues you have had with this kit. I have this kit and will be building it in the future but will have sails. Thanks for your explanations and solutions to the problems found
 
Donnie said:
@ Paul
I will try the Casey Brass Black. Never heard of the product and I need to do more research on this. Thanks for mentioning this.

@ Eric
Sorry - it seems that you are still (I hate to say cursed) with the mayflower. the black paint I am using here is water based and is a watered down coat. I think the Mayflower, I must have used enamel - I honestly can not remember. I am still using Titebond. The bottoms of the supports do not have any paint.
I am not going to plank over anything. I know this goes against what most people do.

@ everybody else
I know, I am breaking all the rules for this ship - and I knew it was going to be cringe-worthy of all my friends out there. But what I am having to work with is pretty bad. When I first opened the box, I was very delighted on the amount of lazer cut parts, and all the nice fittings. The drawings were second to none....BUT, after some investigating, I noticed that a "nice" drawing can be WRONG. "nice" parts can NOT fit right.

But, I am determined to make a nice model out of this. I have to admit that I wish I had done more research on other San Felipe's out there. I know Gary had suggested the one in China, but what through me off is rigging lines not being right and of different colors (if I remember). I have heard so many stories of people buying off of eBay and that was the major no no to me.

But, I see a lot of people choosing the China version of the San Felipe being built. it is 47" long. The wood looks better and you have total control over the Gun Port placement. I am sure that Panart had good intentions, but when the Upper Bulwark piece (that has the pre-planking done and then the cannon port holes DO NOT line up correctly, but are Way out of alignment, then it just makes out for a very difficult build to get everything right. The parts are "nice", but don't fit right !!!

I really feel for the person that has zero experience will find out the Cannons do not line up. As a matter of fact, I saw a Panart San Felipe online via a French Forum and the person literally sanded or grinded down the wheels of the carriages to make the cannons low enough to point through the port lids. If you do not make provisions for this, the Cannons will be pointed downward ALOT !!! That is crazy and very poor design and planning. The Cannon placement along with other things are the REFERENCE point of the deck height, port lid height and placements, among other things. It is very important (at least my humble opinion). I have always seems people struggle with Cannon placements on kits. Same with the Trinidad. I had to realign the cannon port lid openings to make sure of alignment.

You must get the Deck / Cannon / port lid arrangement done first as a reference point first and then the rest of the ship should line up with that. Just my opinion.

Well, that is my rant.
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I guess I was lucky, Donnie. Most of my Connie gun placement on the upper deck was fine. Unfortunately, the lower openings for the cannons gave me problems in that the flap covers did not always fit. I guess I should have temporarily attached the covers before planking.
 
Donnie said:
Thank you Denis, and all....
The latest is not really all that exciting, but necessary. I read ahead in the instructions because the planking that meets the Stern was bugging me - seems the pieces did not have a correct flow to it. Found out I was correct and the planking had to be trimmed back some to be at same angle as last Bulkhead. Then I wanted to make sure that my Stern Pieces would have a nice flow of fitting too, so I just took a sample plank at different areas to see how flush things fit. This last image just shows a (clay modeling tool) since it has an angle to it, to use as a wedge or a prop to it so that the Spiling piece will dry to the shape I want. As a side note, the tool feel out and landed in my lap, I closed my legs to keep it from falling on the floor and guess--- I STABBED myself in the leg with the tool. It was hanging out and I literally had to PULL it out of my leg !!! OUCH.

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I've had that pricking sensation. Only for me, it was an exacto knife.
 
Donnie said:
......Awww Shucks - ROFL
thanks Eric. Seriously, I appreciate the tip. Now, just to find some.

So, here is the latest. I am waiting for a special "Downcut Endmill" for wood that is 5/16 or 2mm so that I can mill out extra on the wooden Axels of the carriages. In the meantime, I thought I would try rigging these lanyards.... my gosh, it has been almost 2 years since I did this. The deadeye is not seized just 100% correct and the lanyards are "fair". However these deadeyes are terribly small. I mean ----- really small.

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Donnie, my kit told me to start the lanyards from the top instead of the bottom. That gave me some ugly line at the end of the ropes journey back to the top. This seems much neater. I'm nor sure I'll have the room to poke it through the hole between the shroud line and the deadeye, though.
 
Donnie said:
Thank you Fright and others. I appreciate all the likes. I am going to post a few more images on the steps of how I am rigging the other side of the bowsprit tree.
My small point and shoot camera bit the dust and I am using my iPhone, but for now I can't get the images off my iPhone into my PC.

This rigging line that came with box is more like a polyester and is not cotton. In some regards, it is good as it does not "fray", however, the bad part is that it has a mind of its own since it was wrapped on the square plastic holder ( I hate it when they do that). They should all use a round card board tube. I prefer cotton as I can use beeswax. The beeswax also is great when tying knots as it "stays put". Not the polyester. It does *not* like beeswax and I have to put a little CA on the knots to make it hold or it springs back !!! Thumbs-Down
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Did I read somewhere that beeswax attracts dust over the years that will not come off?
 
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