D,
Superb model !!!
Superb model !!!
Panart: San Felipe 1:75 Scale Build Log [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter Donnie
- Start date
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- completed build
Finally!!Nice work!
You go boy.
Rick
Rick
Hallo Donnie,
all the Best and Happy Birthday
all the Best and Happy Birthday
Happy birthday Donnie!!
Hello Donnie!! Happy Birthday! Today is yours, why not have the best one!
ME TOO DONNIE, HAVE A GREAT ONE TODAY. Don
cheers, happy birthday Donnie
Perfect!!! Excellent work, Donnie.
Thank you all for the kind words. I am now making room in the Gallery for this.
Hi Don I have a question here. How did you do the gluing with CA glue and there are no white stain from dried CA glue. Did you paint the rope somehow ? Or is your CA glue leaving no white stains after it dries up?
Hi Ciciak,
I used a very thin CA on the rigging ends. The very thin CA is like water as it soaks into the rigging line and dries. So, far, it has no residue. The lines were all Nylon of which I hate. I much prefer cotton rigging line so I can use beewax. If you have cotton line, then you can run your rigging line through the beeswax several times to make it more stiff. The knots will stay and no need for glue. it looks more natural than the CA. The CA will darken the lighter color rigging line.
I have found later on that the best way to make lines have a tension on them when they do not is to use like a 50/50 diluted water and white glue mix. Run the rigging line through this mixture, and then let the line hang with some weight on it. The line will be very stiff and easy to work with. For instance, if you have a very long YARD BRACE that will run almost the length of the ship, well, you know that the line is not going to be like a tight - rope. It is going to have some natural SAG to it as the weight of the rope will do that. So, you can use the trick I just mentioned. Then you can create your own "SAG" in the line and it will look very real and natural.
I used a very thin CA on the rigging ends. The very thin CA is like water as it soaks into the rigging line and dries. So, far, it has no residue. The lines were all Nylon of which I hate. I much prefer cotton rigging line so I can use beewax. If you have cotton line, then you can run your rigging line through the beeswax several times to make it more stiff. The knots will stay and no need for glue. it looks more natural than the CA. The CA will darken the lighter color rigging line.
I have found later on that the best way to make lines have a tension on them when they do not is to use like a 50/50 diluted water and white glue mix. Run the rigging line through this mixture, and then let the line hang with some weight on it. The line will be very stiff and easy to work with. For instance, if you have a very long YARD BRACE that will run almost the length of the ship, well, you know that the line is not going to be like a tight - rope. It is going to have some natural SAG to it as the weight of the rope will do that. So, you can use the trick I just mentioned. Then you can create your own "SAG" in the line and it will look very real and natural.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2017
- Messages
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- 23
Hi Donnie, brilliant model the log has helped me a lot, could you tell me what the blocks of wood are for in this photo (not from your ship) on the spars towards the middle, they seem to be varying in widths (spaces in between) I thought it might have been to keep the spar located on the masts but apparently not as I have seen some photos with them on the opposite face, should they all have this, did you bother ?
This looks amazing!
Hi Arizonasun,
many apologies for such a delay - I am attaching a drawing I made that shows just about all typical layouts for blocks. This is not a rule, but more of a guideline. I see what you mean. Two blocks on each side near the center. I am almost inclined to think these blocks are used for the CLEW rigging. On the tips of the sail, you will have either a double or a triad of blocks.
So, from the DECK:
you will travel starting from a Belaying Pin UP to a Block ON THE YARD, then down to the tip of the sail which should have a mounted block, then after the line passes through the CLEW BlOCK on sail, then the line will TERMINATE wrapping around the yard.
Or you can pass via the opposite direction
So, from the YARD:
Tie your rigging line very next to the Block that is mounted on the yard. Then, take the line and pass it through a block that is mounted on the tip of the sail at bottom corner, then after passing line through block, take line up to the block you have mounted on the yard. Then take the line after passing and terminate it at a belaying pin.
many apologies for such a delay - I am attaching a drawing I made that shows just about all typical layouts for blocks. This is not a rule, but more of a guideline. I see what you mean. Two blocks on each side near the center. I am almost inclined to think these blocks are used for the CLEW rigging. On the tips of the sail, you will have either a double or a triad of blocks.
So, from the DECK:
you will travel starting from a Belaying Pin UP to a Block ON THE YARD, then down to the tip of the sail which should have a mounted block, then after the line passes through the CLEW BlOCK on sail, then the line will TERMINATE wrapping around the yard.
Or you can pass via the opposite direction
So, from the YARD:
Tie your rigging line very next to the Block that is mounted on the yard. Then, take the line and pass it through a block that is mounted on the tip of the sail at bottom corner, then after passing line through block, take line up to the block you have mounted on the yard. Then take the line after passing and terminate it at a belaying pin.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2017
- Messages
- 44
- Points
- 23
Hi Donnie, thanks for the reply, with regards to the photo attached could you explain the double lines wrapped around the spar, I understand one that the spar is hung on but it looks like it goes around twice hence why I can see 2 lots of double lines ?
So, I was making an attempt to reproduce what you see in this image I have attached. Each line (on each side) happens to wrap twice around and it is not a very good job.
This, as you know, is in simple terms a Yard Sling. Some slings have pulleys and some do not. While some are even more elaborate with double blocks. The two lines (one on each side) terminate at the bitt rails (located at the base of Mast).
This, as you know, is in simple terms a Yard Sling. Some slings have pulleys and some do not. While some are even more elaborate with double blocks. The two lines (one on each side) terminate at the bitt rails (located at the base of Mast).
hi donnie just wondering what this cost you? i have an old kit from panart art747] but not that very clear. is there a newer model out by cornwall with clearer instructions about how to follow the instruction book. hope you can lead me in this or their directions to build this model.old kit has a lot of plastic parts. did yours come with alot of metal parts? thanks terry