Pavel Nikitin San Bartolome

The stern cap rail was a tricky one to get even clamp pressure on. So I made small block to fit the contour of the cap. I also clamped a piece of wood in front of it to keep it from sliding forward. Pretty happy on the fit. No gaps to speak of. Not in any of the pictures but I also used filler blocks between the inner bulkhead and outer planking to create more gluing surface area.IMG_9724.jpeg
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I got the masts done and dry fitted. Word of caution to those building this ship. I found that the foremast and the mizzenmast crows nest will not fit over the cross trees, so make sure you leave your top mast loose and unglued until you are ready to final assemble your masts. See the last pictures in the group of progress photos for reference. All my cross trees and Flagstaffs are all glued and mounted to the top mast. I left the top mast unglued from the bottom mast.IMG_0252.jpegIMG_0253.jpegIMG_0254.jpegIMG_0255.jpegIMG_0256.jpegIMG_0289.jpegIMG_0290.jpegIMG_0291.jpegIMG_0294.jpegIMG_0295.jpegIMG_0296.jpegIMG_0297.jpegIMG_0298.jpegIMG_0299.jpegIMG_0300.jpegIMG_0301.jpegIMG_0302.jpegIMG_0303.jpegIMG_0304.jpegIMG_0305.jpegIMG_0306.jpegIMG_0312.jpegIMG_0313.jpeg

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Jagpilot said:
I got the masts done and dry fitted. Word of caution to those building this ship. I found that the foremast and the mizzenmast crows nest will not fit over the cross trees, so make sure you leave your top mast loose and unglued until you are ready to final assemble your masts. See the last pictures in the group of progress photos for reference. All my cross trees and Flagstaffs are all glued and mounted to the top mast. I left the top mast unglued from the bottom mast.
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From the markings on the end, it looks like you rounded the masts by hand (not with a lathe). You are certainly a better man than I, as they look excellent (very round). I shudder to think of what mine would have looked like. Well done!
 
Signet said:
From the markings on the end, it looks like you rounded the masts by hand (not with a lathe). You are certainly a better man than I, as they look excellent (very round). I shudder to think of what mine would have looked like. Well done!
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Thank You! And yes they are rounded by hand. My wife thought I was crazy considering I have a full size and a mini lathe. I figure I am in no rush and keeps the manual dexterity sharp.
 
Got a little more done on some deck furniture. I got the foremast and main mast fife rails installed. I pegged the main mast fife rail for added strength.
I also started working on the cat heads. The lower cat head ring on the foremast had some slop which will make it difficult to mount the cat heads. So I bent some wood to fill the space. This will also give a solid mounting for the fife rail. It was tricky to get it right and not interfere with ladder opening on the forcastle deck. I will also peg the foremast fife rail when its final mounting is done. Not perfect but pretty happy with how everything came out. IMG_0519.jpegIMG_0520.jpegIMG_0517.jpegIMG_0516.jpegIMG_0518.jpegIMG_0521.jpegIMG_0522.jpegIMG_0523.jpegIMG_0524.jpeg
 
Here are some pics of the fife rail construction. I can not recommend this sander enough.It’s perfect for jobs like this. It keeps everything square or at the perfect angle. I used to fit the height of fife rails while maintaining the required angle to match the angle of the deck. They are not cheap but it’s a tool for life. I use it every time I sit down at the bench.IMG_0504.jpegIMG_0501.jpegIMG_0503.jpeg
 
Looking for some ideas from the historians of the group that might be with familiar construction techniques of ships from the 1590’s. Although I know this ship is a retro style ship and not necessarily a 100% accurate replica of the real San Bartolome ship. I would like to know if the planks were treenailed, trenail, trennel, or trunnel, or nailed with iron in this time period. I would like to simulate how the planks would’ve been done in this era. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
 
Worked on the forecastle railing this weekend. not sure why the rear railing, laser, cut outs did not match the deck cut outs. So I had to make a new rear railing. you can see in the picture how crooked the balusters are. I also added a small piece of wood inlay in the bottom of the railing for some added strength. Everything is dry, fitted, and ready for final sanding and finishing. And just a word of caution to those building this kit haven’t gotten to this stage. Don’t over sand the balusters you will definitely have slop in the laser cut openings in the railings.IMG_0591.jpegIMG_0590.jpegIMG_0589.jpegIMG_0592.jpegIMG_0593.jpegIMG_0610.jpegIMG_0611.jpegIMG_0612.jpegIMG_0613.jpegIMG_0614.jpegIMG_0615.jpegIMG_0616.jpegIMG_0617.jpegIMG_0618.jpegIMG_0625.jpeg
 
Jagpilot said:
Worked on the forecastle railing this weekend. not sure why the rear railing, laser, cut outs did not match the deck cut outs. So I had to make a new rear railing. you can see in the picture how crooked the balusters are. I also added a small piece of wood inlay in the bottom of the railing for some added strength. Everything is dry, fitted, and ready for final sanding and finishing. And just a word of caution to those building this kit haven’t gotten to this stage. Don’t over sand the balusters you will definitely have slop in the laser cut openings in the railings.View attachment 464439View attachment 464440View attachment 464441View attachment 464442View attachment 464443View attachment 464444View attachment 464445View attachment 464446View attachment 464447View attachment 464448View attachment 464449View attachment 464450View attachment 464451View attachment 464452View attachment 464453
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Good afternoon. Great set of joints and very clean tidy woodwork. Lovely work. Cheers Grant
 
Hi, I'm a long way behind you on this build. I managed to finally cobble together enough bits and pieces and build the gunport walls ( I somehow lost the original kit flats for those pieces) on the main deck. Can you explain how you formed the top piece (the gunwale??)

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I"m having trouble visualizing what I need to do to get the right shape.

Jan
 
Pathfinder65 said:
Hi, I'm a long way behind you on this build. I managed to finally cobble together enough bits and pieces and build the gunport walls ( I somehow lost the original kit flats for those pieces) on the main deck. Can you explain how you formed the top piece (the gunwale??)

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I"m having trouble visualizing what I need to do to get the right shape.

Jan
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Hello Jan,
The first thing I did was fill the dead space between the outer planking and the inner gun port walls. This makes it easier to sand and get the correct angle sloping down towards the gun deck.
Plus, it will give you more glue surface area to make sure the cap rails will stay securely glued.
It’s not a huge slope down, but it is there based on my interpretation of the plans and seeing Pavels finished ship it seems that way. Once the cap rails were all glued and sanded I left them at their original width and length. All I did then was put the cap rail on a piece heavy card stock to get curve and profile correct. I than cut the profile and taped it to the outter planking and traced the profile onto the planking. And be careful there is a right and left side cap rail. There is a slight difference in the curvature from Foreward to aft. I made sure that I placed the template to only take the bare minimum of wood away. Once I had the cap rail dry fit in place the making sure forward and aft extended past the quarter deck and the forecastle deck because I had not installed the cap rails on those decks yet. I used a flush cut saw to trim it to length. While it was still clamped in place I cut a pencil very short so that I can trace the bottom of cap rail with out hitting the gun deck. Obviously the opposite side, which was on the outer planking area did not need a pencil. Once I had traced basically the thickness of the bulkhead and outer planking I added a few millimeters so that I would overhang on each side. I brought the upper lines of the tracing to the thickness of the cap rails on the quarter deck and four castle deck. Once I had a shape I liked I laminated a piece of cherry veneer to the Cap rail to hide all the glue marks and how the plans had you layer it within strips would so they are hidden underneath the cherry veneer. I am not sure how clear this is , but feel free to ask anymore questions I will try to answer them. And if you look back in my posts, some of this is documented with pictures. and if you have specific questions, I can try to answer them with a picture that I may have stored.
 
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