Hello Matt
Exquisite detail, you truly are an expert builder! I shall enjoy your build all the way through.
Daniel
Exquisite detail, you truly are an expert builder! I shall enjoy your build all the way through.
Daniel
Pinnace Papegojan 1627 - 1/48 [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter mati.n
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- completed build papegojan
your rigging is looking wonderful - the appearance, used materials, execution -> all first class
And it is in addition very interesting to see such special formed blocks, which were used during this time period ..... many thanks for sharing with us, especially to show them in macro-distance, so we cann all the details
And it is in addition very interesting to see such special formed blocks, which were used during this time period ..... many thanks for sharing with us, especially to show them in macro-distance, so we cann all the details
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Hi All,
Thank you @Daniel20, @shota70 and @Uwek for your nice comments!
"Cucumber season" is on so as many others I had some break from the model. Nice weather outside so not much motivation to sit behind workbench
Anyway... I have some small progress.
Bowsprit and spritsail yard rigging has been almost completed. Missing sheets will be added later... now they might obstruct space and knowing my luck i will knock off something
I hope photos will be clear enough to see how each particular rope has been fixed.
Cheers,
Matt
Thank you @Daniel20, @shota70 and @Uwek for your nice comments!
"Cucumber season" is on so as many others I had some break from the model. Nice weather outside so not much motivation to sit behind workbench
Anyway... I have some small progress.
Bowsprit and spritsail yard rigging has been almost completed. Missing sheets will be added later... now they might obstruct space and knowing my luck i will knock off something
I hope photos will be clear enough to see how each particular rope has been fixed.
Cheers,
Matt
Just beautiful to see - realy one of the best rigging works I have ever seen - very realistic appearance
Hi Matt!
You make a fantastic rigging!
Own block with homemade splice.
On a model the blocks are much smaller. How do you splice the strapes and where is the finished splice on the block? Under the seizing? It is a true splice or are both ends twisted and glued?
Cheers,
Thomas
You make a fantastic rigging!
Own block with homemade splice.
On a model the blocks are much smaller. How do you splice the strapes and where is the finished splice on the block? Under the seizing? It is a true splice or are both ends twisted and glued?
Cheers,
Thomas
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@Uwek thanks again for your generous comment really appreciate that somebody is enjoying my work and approach to rigging. I hope it will be helpful too for others.
@Thomas Marocke thank you.
In term of block strops...
...I'm lazy so no fancy splice Both ends of rope for block strop always receive tiny drop of super glue, then with sharp scalpel blade I'm cutting those ends to have perfect straight joint. Most of the time glued joint is hidden under the seizing... sometimes on the lower part of the block... all depends to block size and diameter of the rope used for strop. CA glue has tendency to shine a little bit... to make joint with matt finish I'm applying just a little bit of micro-crystalline wax to hide this effect... but it's just me... freak to notice this shine you will have to shoot spot light straight to this joint and have magnification glass
Most of the ropes used for block stopes are ~0,5mm and blocks between 3mm -> 6mm and I came to conclusion that making real splice it will be torture so I've decided to go with gluing and hiding the joint under seizing. Not a pure approach applied to rigging... and nothing I'm proud of it, but let say... it's acceptable shortcut
Cheers,
Matt
really appreciate that somebody is enjoying my work and approach to rigging. I hope it will be helpful too for others.@Thomas Marocke thank you.
In term of block strops...
...I'm lazy so no fancy splice
Both ends of rope for block strop always receive tiny drop of super glue, then with sharp scalpel blade I'm cutting those ends to have perfect straight joint. Most of the time glued joint is hidden under the seizing... sometimes on the lower part of the block... all depends to block size and diameter of the rope used for strop. CA glue has tendency to shine a little bit... to make joint with matt finish I'm applying just a little bit of micro-crystalline wax to hide this effect... but it's just me... freak to notice this shine you will have to shoot spot light straight to this joint and have magnification glass Most of the ropes used for block stopes are ~0,5mm and blocks between 3mm -> 6mm and I came to conclusion that making real splice it will be torture
so I've decided to go with gluing and hiding the joint under seizing. Not a pure approach applied to rigging... and nothing I'm proud of it, but let say... it's acceptable shortcut Cheers,
Matt
Hallo Matt, Ican only admire your rigging work. Looks just great, lots of things to learn there.
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I agree, we all can learn a lot here and even let us see that this is possible with just patience and knowledge. The last one we got here. Patience is something we must learn.
Hi Matt!
The earlier modelers doweled and nailed their planks because they didn't have suitable adhesives. They also had to bind their blocks because of the lack of glue. We have it a little easier today.
There are many methods to bind the blocks, but yours is the most invisible. Your rigging looks perfect!
Continue to have fun building
Thomas
The earlier modelers doweled and nailed their planks because they didn't have suitable adhesives. They also had to bind their blocks because of the lack of glue. We have it a little easier today.
There are many methods to bind the blocks, but yours is the most invisible. Your rigging looks perfect!
Continue to have fun building
Thomas
I second this - I have never seen such a rigging before. Thanks for sharing, Matt.
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- Feb 22, 2021
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Hi,
So many generous compliments and comments
Thank you @pianoforte, @Steef66, @Thomas Marocke, @Gennaro!
Thanks a lot for other colleagues for many likes!
I'm really happy that other modelers can find something interesting... perhaps helpful in my build.
It's always giving me much more motivation to carry on and pushing me to improve my work and pump it up level of details as much as I can.
Thanks a lot for your support!
So many generous compliments and comments
Thank you @pianoforte, @Steef66, @Thomas Marocke, @Gennaro!
Thanks a lot for other colleagues for many likes!
I'm really happy that other modelers can find something interesting... perhaps helpful in my build.
It's always giving me much more motivation to carry on and pushing me to improve my work and pump it up level of details as much as I can.
Thanks a lot for your support!
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2021
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- Points
- 253
Hi All,
Another small update...
Mizzen mast is nearly fully rigged. Just ratlines missing.
As you see model doesn't have sails, but still I would like to keep as many ropes as possible.
That's why you can see clewlines and sheet on mizzen mast yard.
With sails clewlines should be attached to sail cringles and sheet to clew... but without I have decided to keep them in the way as you can see on the photos with excess rope belayed next to the blocks on the yard. Sheet block which is attached to mizzen clew has been attached with knot to the yard.
You can see also parral, which is slightly different to parrals on main and fore yard.
...I'm jumping from one yard to another just because to not get bored I was missing fore yard parral.
It's almost the same as main yard, but slightly smaller.
Cheers,
Matt
Another small update...
Mizzen mast is nearly fully rigged. Just ratlines missing.
As you see model doesn't have sails, but still I would like to keep as many ropes as possible.
That's why you can see clewlines and sheet on mizzen mast yard.
With sails clewlines should be attached to sail cringles and sheet to clew... but without I have decided to keep them in the way as you can see on the photos with excess rope belayed next to the blocks on the yard. Sheet block which is attached to mizzen clew has been attached with knot to the yard.
You can see also parral, which is slightly different to parrals on main and fore yard.
...I'm jumping from one yard to another just because to not get bored I was missing fore yard parral.
It's almost the same as main yard, but slightly smaller.
Cheers,
Matt
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Great work again.
Your rope is magnificent made. The look, the colour and the shade of bitumen. I couldn't find it back in your thread. What is the colour of Serafill yarn you did use to create this rope coloured in bitumen?
And this block
I like the shape, it's, I think, a deadeye of the 13th century?
Your rope is magnificent made. The look, the colour and the shade of bitumen. I couldn't find it back in your thread. What is the colour of Serafill yarn you did use to create this rope coloured in bitumen?
And this block
I like the shape, it's, I think, a deadeye of the 13th century?
Well Matt you have some of the finest rigging I've seen to date. Your work will stay as part of my reference library, thanks for sharing.
Daniel
Daniel
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Hi,
Thank you @Steef66 for nice comment!
I'm using color number 0326 for Serafil... however big part of the rigging is also made of white (natural color) Ariadna Tytan 360 or 250.
Even when thread is white or slightly off white after bitument they both looks the same
This block is called bridle block. Used mainly on bowlines and on mizzen for clewline.
Similar block called bullseye or preventer will be used (but bigger) for spritsail sheet... it will be attached to fore shroud.
Thank you @Daniel20 for your kind comment. I'm happy that you are finding my work helpful to you...
I hope photos are clear enough. If you or anybody else would like to have some close ups on some details, which is not clear let me know so I can take same additional photo.
Cheers,
Matt
Thank you @Steef66 for nice comment!
I'm using color number 0326 for Serafil... however big part of the rigging is also made of white (natural color) Ariadna Tytan 360 or 250.
Even when thread is white or slightly off white after bitument they both looks the same
This block is called bridle block. Used mainly on bowlines and on mizzen for clewline.
Similar block called bullseye or preventer will be used (but bigger) for spritsail sheet... it will be attached to fore shroud.
Thank you @Daniel20 for your kind comment. I'm happy that you are finding my work helpful to you...
I hope photos are clear enough. If you or anybody else would like to have some close ups on some details, which is not clear let me know so I can take same additional photo.
Cheers,
Matt
Last edited:
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Thanks Mat. I saw simular blocks in the drawings of Peter Kirsch when I was building the galleon. In that day I couldn't find any info about what that tiny thing in the drawing was. I asked in the build log but nobody could tell. I use instead of this a single block because I couldn't find the info. At this moment I know that this kind of block exist, but only the name was a riddle to me. Till now. Thanks.
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- Feb 22, 2021
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Hi All,
@Steef66
Another small update.
In order to complete wooden sticks I had to hung last two yards. Main and fore topsail yards.
Both yards had slightly different type of parrals.
I saw few different "designs"... but I have decided to go with Herman Keeting "look".
Photos might be not that obvious, because of obstruct and tight spot so I'm attaching also drawing how more or less it should look
Having all yards in place I was able to start with other rigging.
Braces...
Topsail yards lifts...
You can see on some photos that I have started with ratlines, which is about time, but when all will be done I will post some photos and details.
It's kind of boring to make all those clove hitches so I'm taking breaks and jump to other part of the rigging
Cheers,
Matt
@Steef66
Another small update.
In order to complete wooden sticks
I had to hung last two yards. Main and fore topsail yards.Both yards had slightly different type of parrals.
I saw few different "designs"... but I have decided to go with Herman Keeting "look".
Photos might be not that obvious, because of obstruct and tight spot so I'm attaching also drawing how more or less it should look
Having all yards in place I was able to start with other rigging.
Braces...
Topsail yards lifts...
You can see on some photos that I have started with ratlines, which is about time, but when all will be done I will post some photos and details.
It's kind of boring to make all those clove hitches so I'm taking breaks and jump to other part of the rigging
Cheers,
Matt
Прекрасная работа. такелаж выше всяких похвал. Недурно Недурно Недурно