Did you make it, or did you purchase it with the t-slots?
POF La Palme (L'Amarante) Corvette 1744 1:36 (Ancre Monograph) by Tobias
Hello Korsar, the plate is self-made. The T-slot rails were bought exactly to size, as were the aluminium profiles on the underside.
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Tobias my dear friendHave a wonderful good Sunday evening everyone. A little update, this week I started with the rear, I can tell you it's pretty tricky, well that's how I wanted it. I had to redo frame 52 and 53 on the port side. The following error happened to me with the No. 52: I misinterpreted the plan and milled the notch for the fashion piece a little too deep. For No. 53, I glued the double frames mirror-inverted.
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See you soon.
Ps.: Thanks to everyone for your comments and likes.
I need your help
What is the height of the part marked in the pictures with a black line and an arrow? In the drawing it is not clear where exactly it is measured and is it the height of the next four below it?
Many thanks in advance
Hi Shota, you can actually take all the measurements from the plan, but I admit that you have to switch back and forth between 2 or 3 plans from time to time.
Maybe a few pictures will shed some light on this.
In the ascending wood you have the notches (picture below) for the crossbeams a, b, c, d and e (picture above) and if you have done everything correctly when preparing, you won't be able to get out. Use a piece of 7mm for crossbeam a, then glue it and cut out the top view first.
Then cut out the side view and glue it on and then work out the curvature with a sander, e.g. a spindle sander.
A little hint in the plans you will always find grey shaded pictures (see second picture) this is the cross-section of the component and here you can measure the height and width of the beam, for example.
Here is another picture I think I have not published maybe it helps a little.
Maybe a few pictures will shed some light on this.
In the ascending wood you have the notches (picture below) for the crossbeams a, b, c, d and e (picture above) and if you have done everything correctly when preparing, you won't be able to get out. Use a piece of 7mm for crossbeam a, then glue it and cut out the top view first.
Then cut out the side view and glue it on and then work out the curvature with a sander, e.g. a spindle sander.
A little hint in the plans you will always find grey shaded pictures (see second picture) this is the cross-section of the component and here you can measure the height and width of the beam, for example.
Here is another picture I think I have not published maybe it helps a little.
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I will have to sit down and study the data thoroughly and properly plan the work
Dear Tobias, Thank you very much for your detailed answer, I really appreciate it
I will have to sit down and study the data thoroughly and properly plan the work
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I wish you all a wonderful evening.
I've been very busy in the last few days and couldn't do anything in the shipyard, perhaps some of you will remember this picture.
There were a lot of suggestions and constructive criticism about the colouring of the plank between the whales, for which I am very grateful. I thought long and hard about whether to make it black, as most of you suggested.
What can I say, I removed it and I'm glad I took this step. There was one suggestion that I personally really like and I think I will go down that route.
It won't be black like 99% of the L'Amarante built. Here I would like to take Christian @AnobiumPunctatum suggestion and will do it with a boxwood plank.
I'm glad about your feedback, that's what this forum is all about.
I've been very busy in the last few days and couldn't do anything in the shipyard, perhaps some of you will remember this picture.
There were a lot of suggestions and constructive criticism about the colouring of the plank between the whales, for which I am very grateful. I thought long and hard about whether to make it black, as most of you suggested.
What can I say, I removed it and I'm glad I took this step. There was one suggestion that I personally really like and I think I will go down that route.
It won't be black like 99% of the L'Amarante built. Here I would like to take Christian @AnobiumPunctatum suggestion and will do it with a boxwood plank.
I'm glad about your feedback, that's what this forum is all about.
That’s superb work Tobias. Well done.
As usual great looking work. Will you please let me know if these clamps are hand made or where I can purchase them.
thanks!
thanks!
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Hi Oliver,
These are called Machinist/Toolmakers Parallel Clamps. While you can certainly make it yourself, here is the link on Amazon (not necessary for you to purchase from there
)
That was quick! Thanks Jim it really helps when you know the name of a thing in order to search for it!Hi Oliver,
These are called Machinist/Toolmakers Parallel Clamps. While you can certainly make it yourself, here is the link on Amazon (not necessary for you to purchase from there
Hi Oliver, Jim has already explained everything. I bought them from a German manufacturer, but I would like to build some myself from wood.
Thanks Tobias. I too am deciding on how best to make some. I’ve looked at a bunch of YouTube videos for insight… we’ll see.
Here you go everyone who wants to make your own
www.homews.co.uk
ToolmakersClamps, making. Conventional and Single sided. 1
Method of making, and dimensions for, both conventional and single sided toolmakers clamps.
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I have those toolmaker clamps too, but most of the time I use my homemade clamps of wood.
Post in thread 'Hohenzollernmodell 1660-1670 Scale 1/75 POF build by Stephan Kertész (Steef66)' https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/hohenzollernmodell-1660-1670-scale-1-75-pof-build-by-stephan-kertész-steef66.11344/post-299974
And I believe Christian @AnobiumPunctatum made some to.
Post in thread 'Hohenzollernmodell 1660-1670 Scale 1/75 POF build by Stephan Kertész (Steef66)' https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/hohenzollernmodell-1660-1670-scale-1-75-pof-build-by-stephan-kertész-steef66.11344/post-299974
And I believe Christian @AnobiumPunctatum made some to.
It just happens I was near my PC, therefore jumped to answer...but you are certainly correct, it is teamwork! SOS is a unique forum, where we strive to help each other!
Good evening everyone.
Attaching the top moulding and the first planks, here I use the tissue paper again, this time the red-brown one. To get a contrast between the moulding (boxwood) and the planking (also boxwood) I have attached a 1mm thick strip below the moulding. And now a few pictures with lots of clips and clamps.
Here is a picture when the paper is removed.
Ken @Hoss6262 , yes Jim did the running, I was busy in the workshop.
Attaching the top moulding and the first planks, here I use the tissue paper again, this time the red-brown one. To get a contrast between the moulding (boxwood) and the planking (also boxwood) I have attached a 1mm thick strip below the moulding. And now a few pictures with lots of clips and clamps.
Here is a picture when the paper is removed.
Ken @Hoss6262 , yes Jim did the running, I was busy in the workshop.
I can only agree with you Jim SOS is a wonderful forum. It's a place to feel good, you get help, constructive criticism, valuable suggestions and the knowledge of builders is gladly shared, last but not least -> good mood and humour.