POF La Palme (L'Amarante) Corvette 1744 1:36 (Ancre Monograph) by Tobias

Tobias said:
Have a wonderful good Sunday evening everyone. A little update, this week I started with the rear, I can tell you it's pretty tricky, well that's how I wanted it ROTF. I had to redo frame 52 and 53 on the port side. The following error happened to me with the No. 52: I misinterpreted the plan and milled the notch for the fashion piece a little too deep. For No. 53, I glued the double frames mirror-inverted.

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See you soon.
Ps.: Thanks to everyone for your comments and likes.Thumbsup
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Tobias my dear friend
I need your help
What is the height of the part marked in the pictures with a black line and an arrow? In the drawing it is not clear where exactly it is measured and is it the height of the next four below it?
Many thanks in advance
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Hi Shota, you can actually take all the measurements from the plan, but I admit that you have to switch back and forth between 2 or 3 plans from time to time.
Maybe a few pictures will shed some light on this.

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In the ascending wood you have the notches (picture below) for the crossbeams a, b, c, d and e (picture above) and if you have done everything correctly when preparing, you won't be able to get out. Use a piece of 7mm for crossbeam a, then glue it and cut out the top view first.
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Then cut out the side view and glue it on and then work out the curvature with a sander, e.g. a spindle sander.

eZy Watermark_18-02-2022_02-19-06PM.jpeg

A little hint in the plans you will always find grey shaded pictures (see second picture) this is the cross-section of the component and here you can measure the height and width of the beam, for example.

Here is another picture I think I have not published maybe it helps a little.

eZy Watermark_24-02-2022_10-26-50PM.jpeg
 
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Tobias said:
Hi Shota, you can actually take all the measurements from the plan, but I admit that you have to switch back and forth between 2 or 3 plans from time to time.
Maybe a few pictures will shed some light on this.

View attachment 408517

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In the ascending wood you have the notches (picture below) for the crossbeams a, b, c, d and e (picture above) and if you have done everything correctly when preparing, you won't be able to get out. Use a piece of 7mm for crossbeam a, then glue it and cut out the top view first.
View attachment 408526

Then cut out the side view and glue it on and then work out the curvature with a sander, e.g. a spindle sander.

View attachment 408519

A little hint in the plans you will always find grey shaded pictures (see second picture) this is the cross-section of the component and here you can measure the height and width of the beam, for example.

Here is another picture I think I have not published maybe it helps a little.

View attachment 408520
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Dear Tobias, Thank you very much for your detailed answer, I really appreciate it :)
I will have to sit down and study the data thoroughly and properly plan the work
 
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I wish you all a wonderful evening.

I've been very busy in the last few days and couldn't do anything in the shipyard, perhaps some of you will remember this picture.

eZy Watermark_01-08-2023_09-54-56-6160PM.jpeg

There were a lot of suggestions and constructive criticism about the colouring of the plank between the whales, for which I am very grateful. I thought long and hard about whether to make it black, as most of you suggested.
What can I say, I removed it and I'm glad I took this step. There was one suggestion that I personally really like and I think I will go down that route.

eZy Watermark_24-11-2023_08-57-33-5420PM.jpeg

It won't be black like 99% of the L'Amarante built. Here I would like to take Christian @AnobiumPunctatum suggestion and will do it with a boxwood plank.

I'm glad about your feedback, that's what this forum is all about.
 

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Hi Tobias, I love your own decision to accent with Boxwood, rather than the black inner wale!

Jim, Tobias and Stephan, I have never seen answers come back so quickly in assisting a member. This IS teamwork! :D But officially, Jim wins the race! ROTF
 
Good evening everyone.
Attaching the top moulding and the first planks, here I use the tissue paper again, this time the red-brown one. To get a contrast between the moulding (boxwood) and the planking (also boxwood) I have attached a 1mm thick strip below the moulding. And now a few pictures with lots of clips and clamps.

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Here is a picture when the paper is removed.

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Ken @Hoss6262 , yes Jim did the running, I was busy in the workshop.
 
Jimsky said:
It just happens I was near my PC, therefore jumped to answer...but you are certainly correct, it is teamwork! SOS is a unique forum, where we strive to help each other!
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I can only agree with you Jim SOS is a wonderful forum. It's a place to feel good, you get help, constructive criticism, valuable suggestions and the knowledge of builders is gladly shared, last but not least -> good mood and humour.
 
Witaj
To uszczelnienie wygląda super jak i cała twoja praca .Pozdrawiam Mirek

Hello
That seal looks great as well as all your work .Regards Mirek
 
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