- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,668
- Points
- 738
thanks my dear friend for your kind words, I'm happy that you liked it
POF L'Amarante Corvette de 12 canons 1744 1:36 (Ancre Monograph- Gérard Delacroix) By Shota
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,668
- Points
- 738
my dear friend, Thank you very much for your kind words and encouragement
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,668
- Points
- 738
my dear friend Grant, thank you very much for your compliments, it's means to me a lotGood morning Shota. Wonderful. It looks so good before sanding. After some sanding hoursI foresee something special. Cheers Grant
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2021
- Messages
- 4,777
- Points
- 688
Good looking, Shota, your hard labor is showing.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,668
- Points
- 738
good evening dear friends
In the last week I sanded all the frames of the ship inside and out, until I reached the continuous contours of the ship.
After that I applied a thin layer of Butcher Block Conditioner of howard, is a revitalizing blend of genuine beeswax, Brazilian carnauba wax (hardest natural wax available), and pure USP Food Grade Mineral Oil.
I like this material because it gives a deep shade to the wood.
After that I installed the keelson. today I started preparing the wooden boards for whale boards made of ebony as well as for the upper boards that receive a decorative wavy decoration from boxwood. For a moment it seemed to me that I was producing more sawdust than wooden boards
In the last week I sanded all the frames of the ship inside and out, until I reached the continuous contours of the ship.
After that I applied a thin layer of Butcher Block Conditioner of howard, is a revitalizing blend of genuine beeswax, Brazilian carnauba wax (hardest natural wax available), and pure USP Food Grade Mineral Oil.
I like this material because it gives a deep shade to the wood.
After that I installed the keelson. today I started preparing the wooden boards for whale boards made of ebony as well as for the upper boards that receive a decorative wavy decoration from boxwood. For a moment it seemed to me that I was producing more sawdust than wooden boards
You keep me wondering about the quality of your and improving your overall skills, my friend! Keep up the excellent work, and BTW, I like the finish produced by this conditioner.
What an interesting combination of treatments for your timbers Shota. I do like the warm tone the timbers have. I use "Butcher Block" mineral oil on my actual cutting boards, stuff works great.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,668
- Points
- 738
Thank you very much for your comments Daniel. Very much appreciated
it's nice to know that you to work with this product
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,668
- Points
- 738
my dear friend Jim, thank you very much for your kind words and compliments
I'm doing my best to improve my abilities
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,668
- Points
- 738
thank you very much my dear friend Stephan for your kind words
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,668
- Points
- 738
Hello dear friends
I would like to share a little work I did, mainly out of the feeling of satisfaction with the result and the way to it.
In the ship there are ductile panels that I plan to make from boxwood.
I have a kent shaper up to 4mm, so I decided to make one of my own 4.5mm wide.
On the third try I get to the right place in my opinion
I would like to share a little work I did, mainly out of the feeling of satisfaction with the result and the way to it.
In the ship there are ductile panels that I plan to make from boxwood.
I have a kent shaper up to 4mm, so I decided to make one of my own 4.5mm wide.
On the third try I get to the right place in my opinion
Witaj
Drogi Shoto twój kadłub wygląda super ale po nałożeniu wosku i oleju nie będziesz miała problemu z klejeniem innych części. Pytam bo nie używałem nigdy wosku ani oleju.. Zrobiłeś świetną grubościówke na papier ścierny gdzie kupiłeś walek na papier scierny?.Pozdrawiam Mirek
Drogi Shoto twój kadłub wygląda super ale po nałożeniu wosku i oleju nie będziesz miała problemu z klejeniem innych części. Pytam bo nie używałem nigdy wosku ani oleju.. Zrobiłeś świetną grubościówke na papier ścierny gdzie kupiłeś walek na papier scierny?.Pozdrawiam Mirek
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,668
- Points
- 738
Mirke mój drogi przyjacielu
Doskonałe pytanie, po około dniu materiał całkowicie wchłonął się w drewno, nie tworząc tłustej warstwy i dla pewności delikatnie przetarłem cały kadłub statku bawełnianą szmatką i wtedy nie miałem problemu z przyklejeniem go do statku.
Mirek my dear friend
Excellent question, after a day or so the material was completely absorbed into the wood without producing an oily layer and to make sure I gently rub the entire hull of the ship with a cotton cloth and then I had no problem gluing it to the ship.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,668
- Points
- 738
good evening dear friends
The update this time is Mainly to get help and guidance when it comes to building the rear part of the stern.
I realized that before I put the decorative boards and the whale boards, I need to complete the rear hull of the stern.
As you will see in the picture, it relies on three pairs of longitudinal beams g f and h. I made g and f relatively easily also because they stand at a 90 degree angle.
However, a pair of h-beams is inclined at an angle and after thinking I decided to start with the production/cutting of the angle/back profile from wide cubes and only then to cut the side profile from them. Do you know another good way? I am attaching pictures of my work and pictures of Tobias and Jumpy65's work as a reference.
The next issue I need help with is Regarding the three parts i j k that are between the beams f and actually through it in a channel/round tube the ship's rudder comes out.
I'm having trouble understanding the outlines of the three parts (i j k) and what the exact positions are in relation to all the structural components of the rear front of the stern.
Any detailed instruction accompanied by pictures will be welcomed (also this time I will attach pictures of the friends' work - finished result without documentation of the steps)
Many thanks in advance
The update this time is Mainly to get help and guidance when it comes to building the rear part of the stern.
I realized that before I put the decorative boards and the whale boards, I need to complete the rear hull of the stern.
As you will see in the picture, it relies on three pairs of longitudinal beams g f and h. I made g and f relatively easily also because they stand at a 90 degree angle.
However, a pair of h-beams is inclined at an angle and after thinking I decided to start with the production/cutting of the angle/back profile from wide cubes and only then to cut the side profile from them. Do you know another good way? I am attaching pictures of my work and pictures of Tobias and Jumpy65's work as a reference.
The next issue I need help with is Regarding the three parts i j k that are between the beams f and actually through it in a channel/round tube the ship's rudder comes out.
I'm having trouble understanding the outlines of the three parts (i j k) and what the exact positions are in relation to all the structural components of the rear front of the stern.
Any detailed instruction accompanied by pictures will be welcomed (also this time I will attach pictures of the friends' work - finished result without documentation of the steps)
Many thanks in advance
You made some very nice steps on the stern, Shota.
Regards, Peter
Hello Shota, to make the side stern wood. Here I took the following approach at Le Rochefort. Since I didn't have wood that wide, I glued two boards together. Then I took the view from the back and glued it to the wood and cut it out, then I glued the side view and cut it out, so you get an absolutely precise side part. Sand a bit and adjust the slight bevels.
As for the middle part, it's not too complicated. The important thing is that you make a copy of the plan and build a device to keep the exact angle. In the plan you can see the angle at which the rudder is installed. I glued an oversized cube out of the three inner pieces of wood and then clamped it in the vice and used the router to mill a hole (I think 16mm), then made and adjusted the middle stern pieces (with the help of another copy) and glued everything together.
In order to get an exact position of the side pieces of wood, I also attached small strips with holes at the upper edge and adjusted the distance with a small threaded rod.
I hope I was able to shed some light on the matter. Best regards, my friend.
As for the middle part, it's not too complicated. The important thing is that you make a copy of the plan and build a device to keep the exact angle. In the plan you can see the angle at which the rudder is installed. I glued an oversized cube out of the three inner pieces of wood and then clamped it in the vice and used the router to mill a hole (I think 16mm), then made and adjusted the middle stern pieces (with the help of another copy) and glued everything together.
In order to get an exact position of the side pieces of wood, I also attached small strips with holes at the upper edge and adjusted the distance with a small threaded rod.
I hope I was able to shed some light on the matter. Best regards, my friend.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,668
- Points
- 738
thank you very much my dear friend Tobias for your help and guidance!!!
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,668
- Points
- 738
hello my friend
they are permanent spacers
These pieces will be trimmed to the inner and outer line of the frames