Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here

I've been using my Proxxon pen sander for years and I am very happy with it, first of all with the 'dogleg' attachments. And you don't have to buy those very expensive and weak sanding pads to it. Any sandpaper can be used with it, when attached with a THIN double sided tape (like that for attaching carpets)
Janos
 
[QUOTE = "Ivan Trtanj, Beitrag: 79186, Mitglied: 5672"]
JEDINO ŠTA NA UNIMAT ILI EMKO 3 NEVALJA TOJE MOTOR ALI ZA TO
IMA REŠENJE
Für den Fall, dass Sie nicht mehr weiterkommen möchten
Für den Fall, dass Sie nicht mehr weiterkommen möchten

Google Übersetzung (und Uwe Interpretation):
Das einzige Problem des Unimat oder des Emco 3 könnte der Motor sein, aber es gibt mögliche Lösungen.
The only problem could be the motor configure, aber dadurch gibt es Lösungen
[/ZITAT]

Hier ist die Lösung: Ein kleiner Elektromotor im Wert von 80, - Euro. Alles zusammen auf einer Stahlplatte montiert und in Funktion gesetzt mit einem O-Ring oder auch Dichtungsring für Wasserleitungen. Und so habe ich die Wärme von dem Nähmaschinen-Motor entfernt, da ich den Motor rausgeschmissen habe.
P1010124.JPGP1010125.JPGP1010126.JPG
 
Super, gute Idee. Hast Du an den Führungen auch was gemacht, Ivan ? Mein Querschlitten wackelt wenn man dran zieht oder drückt.. Ich werde mal
versuche ihn einzustellen. Ich habe nur im Netz gelesen dass einige Leute die Kunsstoffführungen im Schlitten gegen Messing austauschen.

Translation:
Great, good idea. Did you do anything about the tours, Ivan? My cross slide wobbles when you pull or push it... I will try to adjust it. I just read on the net that some people are replacing the plastic guides in the sled with brass.
 
New in my shipyard office. A 1.80m x 1.20m Whiteboard. I have a lot of problems to handle the drawings from my project without to damage or wear them.
I hope this board will help me to work more efficient with the drawings and other informations.

View attachment 123811
Looks like a very good investment..... could you please show later on, how you use it?
And we can see, that you are also a modeler with cat ...... nice face
 
@Uwek

There is nothing special, i think a lot of persons use a whiteboard. For me was important to have access to a lot of drawings in one view. The La Belle helps me beacause the sheets are not too big. But for the Bonhomme Richard or the L´Artesien i can use this wall as well. I need the drawings near on my Computer for the reasaerch, the CAD, ect. I will do as well my own rigging plans (on the left side in the upper corner). This will need as well a lot of space.
And a very serious reasion more for this all. One of my satanic cats has lacerated parts of my Planche 1 from my Bonhomme Richard. :confused::eek:. After this experience you press very fast the buy-button to save the rest.

1576394425446.png
 
Got a new lamp with magnifying glass for my workshop - I was before searching around and I wanted a higher quality one, which is flexible and durable
I was buying the Lumeno 861 with additional base for the top of the table and a rolling basis - so I am able to lift or roll the light to the different locations


all together it is appr. 23 kg !!!!

mounted in the table base (8kg !!!)
IMG_4987.JPG

a very solid base with a weight of 8kg
IMG_4990.JPG

the original base
IMG_4994.JPG

the rolling base with 12 kg weight
IMG_4993.JPG

IMG_4992.JPG

The lamp with an oval lense with the with 1,75 enlargement - light with SMD-LEDs (6500k) similar to daylight
IMG_4991.JPG

a view through the lense
IMG_4988.JPG

and the same without - camera location not changed
IMG_4989.JPG

We will see, how it will work under workshop conditions
 

Attachments

  • Datenblatt 861X.pdf
    384.7 KB · Views: 9
Supa glue comes in 3 versions, Thin, medium & thick. The thick/ Medium is good for eyelets, metal, cannons etc. But still has a weak cross tension. Its good when you dont want runs or just very small spot glues, but takes longer to dry.
 
Hi KNUT, you can also use an accelarator, but be carful of the accelarator, it will turn the wood, i switched out from ZAP=A=GAP to MERCARY ADHESIVES, i always use the medium works well for me, when i need to use it i try to stay away as much as i can from CA GLUES, Don
 
Thanks friends.
I will try this one first, since I can buy this brand in a local hobby shop, they said it mostly glues and does not flow out.
This is a brand from the UK, possibly someone from England here on the forum who has tried this glue type and say their opinion.
We'll see what happens, greetings-
 
For gluing brass to wood, use a small (jewelers type) file, medium coarse, and gently file the hinge to roughen the metal and also remove any coating there may be. One small dollop(drop) of glue will do the job, leave overnight to fully cure.
Regards the hinges, they would have been pressed out of sheet and consequently there will be a burr all round, you can file most of it off, leaving a minute hollow underneath. Forgot to mention, clean the metal parts in acetone to remove any coatings and oils.
 
Hello Knut! An excellent choice of the knife- swish made, and great quality. One word of caution, however...using this diamond sharpener (top picture) can easily kill your perfect knife! Those 'Diamond' sharpeners - are tools killers (IMHO)!!! A much better (or I should say) safer way to use sharpening stones: natural or synthetic. They come in various grits and require more time to sharpen initially, but any consecutive sharpening time you will need only the highest grit of the stone and honing.

The stones could be water or oil base sharpening methods. You cannot substitute them e.g. you can only use water stones with water and not the oil. I use Japanese Naniwa water stones and very, very happy with their performance. It is a kinda investment. I have 3 grits, for the most part, it should be enough to start:
220, 1000 and 5000 grit.

Oil-based stones as good, and it is just a matter of personal taste and preference. One of the popular oil-based stone - is 'Arkansas'.

Avoid using Diamond sharpeners at any cost... :eek:
 
Regarding diamond sharpeners, they are suitable for sharpening CARBIDE TIPPED tools, i.e. router bits and power saw blades, etc. I ditto what Jimsky said.
The hardware shops sell a sharpening stone which is DRY, it is fine on one side and coarse the other, suited to sharpening chisels, hand planer blades etc., they can be impregnated with oil. The fine side is about the equivalent of about 120 grit, size is about 8 x 2 x 1 inch's
 
Last edited:
Back
Top