Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here

Just received my new sander from Byrnes Model machines. I currently have his 5" sander as well as his table saw & thickness sander. All of which are superb tools. What enticed me to buy another sander was Jim's new design being variable speed as well as CW or CCW rotation.
The sanding disk is 4" diameter as opposed to his original 5". The new sanding disk is a two-piece unit which makes for more rapid changes of the sanding disk. It comes with a second disk on which you can have a different grit available for a quicker change. Additional disks are available for purchase.
View attachment 354218
The sander showing the controls conveniently located on the side of the unit. Basically, the same robust construction as the 5" unit and all of his tools. You can see the split line on the sanding disk which is easily changed by three screws accessible from the back through the slot at the top of the motor mounting plate. Very quiet and smooth-running unit.


View attachment 354219
Also included is a second sanding disk, miter gage and Bondhus ball driver for the disk attachment screws.


View attachment 354220View attachment 354221
Two pages of safety and operating instructions.
Many thanks for showing us your new sander - I am also thinking about an order......
 
I have just ordered the sander from Byrnes
I am currently in the US and will bring it back when I return to France in a few weeks.
The nice thing for us Europeans is that it works both 110V and 220V, so no need for a transformer.
Hi Gilbert,
I thought you had to order either one or the other voltage, maybe that has changed.

Enjoy your new machine.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Hi Gilbert,
I thought you had to order either one or the other voltage, maybe that has changed.

Enjoy your new machine.

Cheers,
Stephen.
Hi Stephen
it is bi-voltage. See http://byrnesmodelmachines.com/discsanderVS5.html
The previous sander and the saw are either 110V or 220V.
The new sander has a DC motor which explains the bi-voltage. I imagine that the AC/DC transformer supports both voltage input
 
Hi Stephen
it is bi-voltage. See http://byrnesmodelmachines.com/discsanderVS5.html
The previous sander and the saw are either 110V or 220V.
The new sander has a DC motor which explains the bi-voltage. I imagine that the AC/DC transformer supports both voltage input
Thanks Gilbert,
I should have checked before I said anything, but better to be sure.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Hi Stephen
it is bi-voltage. See http://byrnesmodelmachines.com/discsanderVS5.html
The previous sander and the saw are either 110V or 220V.
The new sander has a DC motor which explains the bi-voltage. I imagine that the AC/DC transformer supports both voltage input
I have not so much knowledge in electrical stuff, so I am wondering, how the motor is acting with two different voltage
The motor should be strong enough to sand when he is getting 110 Volts
In Europe he get the double volts, does this mean that the motor is running double faster, means that the minimum turns per minute is not anymore 200 but 400 rpm?
Defintely you need in Europe a plug adapter for the US-plug

When you use an european hairdryer (230V) in America (north and south) with 110V - -> it is like a V8 motor running only with 2 cylinders - It needs hours to dry the hair (and mine are short)
 
I have not so much knowledge in electrical stuff, so I am wondering, how the motor is acting with two different voltage
The motor should be strong enough to sand when he is getting 110 Volts
In Europe he get the double volts, does this mean that the motor is running double faster, means that the minimum turns per minute is not anymore 200 but 400 rpm?
Defintely you need in Europe a plug adapter for the US-plug

When you use an european hairdryer (230V) in America (north and south) with 110V - -> it is like a V8 motor running only with 2 cylinders - It needs hours to dry the hair (and mine are short)
When it got a DC motor it has a build in power adaptor. These are so made they can handle 110 to 250 Volt AC. The output to the motor will always the power what it needs. for example 24 Volts DC. Sometimes you see a switch on your powerunit 110 or 220. Like the power of a computer for example.
 
I have not so much knowledge in electrical stuff, so I am wondering, how the motor is acting with two different voltage
The motor should be strong enough to sand when he is getting 110 Volts
In Europe he get the double volts, does this mean that the motor is running double faster, means that the minimum turns per minute is not anymore 200 but 400 rpm?
Defintely you need in Europe a plug adapter for the US-plug

When you use an european hairdryer (230V) in America (north and south) with 110V - -> it is like a V8 motor running only with 2 cylinders - It needs hours to dry the hair (and mine are short)
Motors 101:

The speed of the motor depends on the number of poles and, if an AC motor, the cycle rate of the power. For Europe, AC power is 50 cycles per second, or 50 hertz. For America, it is 60 hertz. The speed of the motor is the number of poles times the cycle rate, so in America a 4 pole motor using 60 hertz power runs at 1800 rpm.

The energy output the motor is basically the voltage times the current (volts x amps). If the voltage is higher but the motor uses less current in amps, the energy output could equal a motor that uses more current at lower voltage.

There are many other factors that affect how motors work. An AC motor functions differently than a DC motor. A DC motor has more torque at lower rpm than a typical AC induction motor, so DC motors are popular in cranes and positioning motors in CNC machines. Different motors have different applications.

As for voltage rating, if you run a motor designed for 110 volts with 230 volts, you will burn out the windings. If you use a 230 volt motor on 110 volts, you will also damage the motor. Use 230v on a motor wired for 230v. There exist many motors that are rated to run on either 110v or 230v, but how you connect the wiring is different for 110v than it is for 230v. Many industrial motors are designed to allow you to connect the stator windings two different ways so you can use it for both voltages. If you want to run a 110v motor in 230v, you need a step-down transformer to reduce the voltage to 110v. Otherwise, you get a very exciting electrical fire.

Suffice to say, electrical machinery gets complicated. As a marine engineer, I was trained in basic operation, maintenance and repair of motors and switchgear. What I described above is a very simplified answer, Uwe.
 
Ha Ha
many thanks for the given information
I am civil engineer, so I understand everything about concrete and rebars ...... but cables - uggh - because of this my models have also no lighting inside
I will wait until @Gilbertm made his experiences with the new sander, when he arrived back in France and used the sander (over some time)
Please do not forget to smell, if there is something melting, burning etc. ;)
 
Ha Ha
many thanks for the given information
I am civil engineer, so I understand everything about concrete and rebars ...... but cables - uggh - because of this my models have also no lighting inside
I will wait until @Gilbertm made his experiences with the new sander, when he arrived back in France and used the sander (over some time)
Please do not forget to smell, if there is something melting, burning etc. ;)
Hi Uwe
I am not worried by burning anything outside of sliced bread :)

If you are using your laptop in Austria, the input AC current is 220V. However, if you use the same laptop in the US (with the same power brick and just a plug conversion), then the input AC current is 110V.
The brick converts the input voltage to DC (to the proper voltage required by your PC).

The new Byrnes sander must work exactly the same way.

But anyway, I'll tell you once I am back in France in a couple of weeks.
 
Based on a tip by Dirk alias @Dubz Modelling World in his building log


I ordered my Rhinestone Applicator - I got a purple one and not a pink like Dirk - thanks god

IMG_2170.jpg

Indeed very cheap - and yesterday I tested it on some 1 and 2mm thick watered wooden strips
and
It is working surprisingly very well - f.e. with a pear planking strip I was able to bend to a circle of appr. 2cm
 
Based on a tip by Dirk alias @Dubz Modelling World in his building log


I ordered my Rhinestone Applicator - I got a purple one and not a pink like Dirk - thanks god

View attachment 355069

Indeed very cheap - and yesterday I tested it on some 1 and 2mm thick watered wooden strips
and
It is working surprisingly very well - f.e. with a pear planking strip I was able to bend to a circle of appr. 2cm
Are you making your own Elvis suit Uwe? :)
 
Nice shopping trip :)
Don’t know about the drill but I have both the others and know you will enjoy the sander and the Ultimation cutter.
 
Hello
While I was in the US during the last few weeks, I bought and brought back some new toys:

- Byrnes variable speed disk sander (it works perfectly well on 220V since this is a DC motor)

View attachment 359198

- Micromark electric drill

View attachment 359202

- Ultimation Slicer
View attachment 359203
Hi Gilbert, I have the ultimation slicer too. It is a fantastic tool, and I think you will find yourself using it frequently. I am jealous of your other purchases. It sounds good to be able to travel to US to collect the machine rather than rely on postag.
 
Whilst looking on a certain auction site at wooden decks I chanced across some balcony decking for my revell queen Mary 2 and delivered in less than a week from China while other bits I am waiting for from the EU still hasn't arrived yet and it was ordered 2 weeks ago. IMG_20230224_122817.jpg
 
Hello
While I was in the US during the last few weeks, I bought and brought back some new toys:

- Byrnes variable speed disk sander (it works perfectly well on 220V since this is a DC motor)

View attachment 359198

- Micromark electric drill

View attachment 359202

- Ultimation Slicer
View attachment 359203
We builders from the US and Canada are spoiled for the items we can get so easy, but there are items from EU or the Pacific that cost us an arm or leg to obtain as well.
 
We builders from the US and Canada are spoiled for the items we can get so easy, but there are items from EU or the Pacific that cost us an arm or leg to obtain as well.
I hate to say this but stuff from US to Canada is also quite pricey. I needed $12.00 in parts from a location in US and the shipping was about 40$ US. I did order those things because I needed them, but boy why so expensive?
 
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