sgtmik's HMS Blandford cross section build

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Aussie048

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#2
Hey my shipmate SGTMIK.

I am glad to see you on the build. Lets enjoy this together with Mike.

We have a lot to learn. We have a excellent instructor.

Cheers Geoff
 

Sgtmik

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#3
Ahoy Shipmates,
I finally got off the dime and got started. I used some scrap 1/4in ply that I had for the top and went to lows and bought a piece of particle board for the base. I had picked up a 3/4 X 3/4in dowel from Hobby lobby some time ago and had never used it. It came in handy for my uprights and gussets.
I will be using Rosewood for the False Keel and European Beech wood for my Keel and frames.

Thanks for visiting my build log. IMG_1700 (2).JPG IMG_1701 (2).JPG IMG_1702 (2).JPG IMG_1703 (2).JPG IMG_1704 (2).JPG
 
A

Aussie048

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#5
Hi Mike

Good to see you start. It looks good. I hope I can start this week on my build.

Cheer
Geoff
 

Mike41

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#6
Hi Mike,
Nice choice of woods, you are off to a great start.
Mike
 

Sgtmik

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#7
Ahoy Geoff and Mike,
Thanks for visiting my build log and your kind comments. I still have some filing to do yet before my wood get here. I got all my plan sheets printed at office depot $0.27 per sheet.
 

Mike41

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#8
Hi Mike,
That is not a bad price for printing, you might want to put an 11 x 17 printer on the family Christmas List.
Mike
 

Sgtmik

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#9
Ahoy Shipmates,
I wanted to post this short update as I will be out for a couple of weeks. I used dry wall screws and titebond to effect the final assembly of my jig. and it should last for the time needed.

Thanks for visiting my build log. IMG_1714 (2).JPG
 

Donnie

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#10
So....you used your micromark saw to do all that? Notches too? You must have plunged cut into the top jig then. How did ya do that?
 

Sgtmik

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#11
Ahoy Donnie,
No I used my Dremel scroll saw to cut the notches. I used my table saw to cut my top out of a larger piece of wood.
 

Sgtmik

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#12
Ahoy Shipmates,
Here is another installment from "Ye Old Ship Yard." I used Walnut for the False Keel and European Beech-wood for the Keel. They are a little oversized and I will trim them to size when I fit the Keel to my build jig.
I found out quickly that I need a rip fence on my new band saw when I cut my walnut and large pieces of Beech-wood.

I found a dealer with smaller more manageable pieces of Beech-wood for my frames and cut the first frame with my Dremel scroll saw. I was gun shy of my first cuts and cut the pieces with plenty of room.


The bad news is while using my Dremel rotary sander to clean up my frame pieces I really cocked up number 1-4. Today I must go back to office depot and get another copy of plan sheet 1-2.
I used a pieces of plastic from my band saw box to cover my build sheet, and think I will search for a piece of glass to use instead. IMG_1753 (2).JPG IMG_1754 (2).JPG IMG_1755 (2).JPG IMG_1756 (2).JPG IMG_1750 (2).JPG IMG_1751 (2).JPG IMG_1752 (2).JPG
 

Mike41

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#13
Hi Mike,
The first frame is the hardest, it takes a while to get familiar with your tools. The bandsaw can save a lot of sanding when you stay close to the outline. When you are using the Dremel on the inside of the frame use light strokes quickly and you will avoid lumps and bumps, with a little practice you will notice a nice improvement in the surface of the frame.

You are off to a good start, only 8 more frames to go.

Mike
 

zoly99sask

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#15
Hello Mike,you have a good start here,I can't wait to start my cross section too,I will have a few to follow already .
 

Sgtmik

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#16
Hi Zoly,
I've been working on Solid works all day, but tomorrow I will bee on the tools. I have some repair work on my frame 1.
 

Sgtmik

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#17
Ahoy Ship Mates,
I've been back on the tools working on my keel. I used my mill to cut the notches my rabbit, and to drill my hole for the brass tubes. The keel is a bit too wide so I have been sanding to get it down to 3/8 inch.I think I need to build a jig to get it more evenly sanded. Right now I have it at 0.401" at the thinnest to 0.414" at the widest.Since the goal is 0.375" as equates to 3/8" we aren't talking about much. I would like to be more accurate.

Thanks for visiting my build log. IMG_1762 (2).JPG IMG_1764 (2).JPG IMG_1777 (2).JPG IMG_1790 (2).JPG IMG_1787 (2).JPG
 

Mike41

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#18
Hi Mike,
Nice work on the notches, your mill looks just like mine except yours looks a lot cleaner.
Mike
 
A

Aussie048

Guest
#19
Hey Mike it is only new give him time and it will looks like ours.

One suggestion to the Sgt is maybe you should hold the keel on the compound Table and not in a vice, that way the level will probably be more accurate. I think the compound Table has about 135mm of movement, so wod will need to move the wood. What I use is a piece of right angle aluminum to help square up the material I am going to mill by placing it in the slots of the compound table and taking it out after the wood is clamped down.

You could do it that way as long as you have material at both ends to make sure the keel is flat when clamped in the vice

There is a set of clamps that is either included with the compound table to hold material down. One is a triangular shape and the other ais a bar. Both have grove in them so you can set at different heights. There should be 2 of them

Cheers
Geoff
 

Sgtmik

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#20
Ahoy Mike & Geoff,
Thanks for visiting my build log and for your generous comments. I have been thinking of selling this mill and getting the vertical milling column attachment for my Sherline lathe. It would give me a little more room on the Z axis and conserve some space in my already over crowded ship yard, which by the way just had a reduction and addition.



I returned the Craftsman 9 inch band saw I had, to many bad reviews and I got the WEN 10 inch. The WEN has a better working surface and came with a stand. I will most likely build a table for the band saw and use the stand for my micro mark table saw. I waiting for the rip fence to arrive. I had to complain to Home Depot as it was left out, They apologized and said it would arrive Mon. or Tues.
Thanks Geoff for the tip. I do have the clamps you speak of, I will give it a shot. IMG_1791 (2).JPG
 
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