Silent Mary by Mellpapa

[mellpapa]

Hi mellpapa!
Thank you very much for the paint that you have pushed forward. This will be very important for my model making. I can see from your boat that you have extremely deep technical skills. The whole model effect is also very good. Looking forward to the completion of the model

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Hello, fj3131030!
I can't believe my crafting log is helping you craft!
I'm so glad I did.
Thank you very much.

 

[mellpapa]

I examined the railing struts in front of the foxtail deck on the ghost ship.

It's broken and stuff, but the base is still there, so I counted ten of them.


I carved out ten handrail posts from 3 x 3 x 900 mm cypress.
They're a little thick, but a certain piece of 2x2mm wood is too thin.


This is what it looks like when you zoom in on the pillar.


Insert a 0.5 mm brass wire.


Glue the support to the front of the foxtail deck and paint it with German Grey.


Tentatively assembling the handrails.
It looks like this.
After this, I painted it with German gray.


This is the construction of the door for the bulkhead section on the bow side of the Foxle. I made a lot of door frames when I made the turret door on the bow side before.
I used those door frames for this project.
The door handle, a round ring, was made by rounding 0.5mm brass wire and attached to the door using 0.3mm brass wire.
For the hinges, I cut a 0.3mm plastic plate into thin strips, glued them together, and drilled about five holes with a needle to make them look like nails.


The decorative parts of the door frame were printed on an Alps MD1000 printer, cut out, and pasted on.
It is printed in gold and black.
The Alps MD1000 printer is useful because it can print gold, silver, white, and other colors.
But this printer was discontinued many years ago. It is now a valuable printer. The ink is ribbon type.
As inkjet printers became more and more popular, ribbon printers were no longer sold.
For model builders, it was a very good printer for making decals.


The door was ready, so I glued it in place.
There is a box-like thing at the bottom of the bowsprit, so I built that up as well and glued it in place.
Maybe a miscellaneous toolbox?


This bulkhead will have a molding over the door frame.
There will also be a braid at the top of the base of the bowsprit.
Those moldings will be installed during the next build.

 

[mellpapa]

The location of Cathead was examined by the ghost ship.

Look at the red arrow in the red circle!
I didn't realize it grew from this position.
I didn't know it was set into the pillar of the upper rail. ......
The base of the cathead seems to be hidden under the deck, not on the foxtail deck.


This is an image looking forward from the back side of the foxtail deck of the Silent Mary.
Note the red arrow!
I can't find the base of the cathead. I still think it must be under the foxtail deck.
I wonder if there were any sailing ships in the past that actually existed that had catheads attached like this?
Well, the Silent Mary is a fictional sailing ship.
Set the catheads in the same way.



Anyway, I made a cat head.
Here are some pictures from above and from the side.
Since it will be attached to the pillar on the upper deck, brass wire will be used. The thickness of the brass wire is 1 mm.


I painted the German Grey.
It's not dry yet.


I decorated the end of the cat head.
It's supposed to be a lion's face, but I'm not sure what it is.
But it's good to know that it's decorated.
I painted it with olive drab, and after it dried, I drybrushed it with gold.


For the decoration of the lion, I used a silicone mold of the back of the gun port lid of the Level 1/150 VASA plastic model, which I duplicated in resin.
I would like to make this plastic model someday.


The white arrow part, the added mall.


The lion's face decorated on the cat head is quite prominent.
It is a good accent.

 

[Heinrich]

Yes, it is unmistakably a lion's head - well done!

 

[mellpapa]

Yes, it is unmistakably a lion's head - well done!

Hello, Heinrich.
At first, the P of the lion's face was too small, so I put it upside down by mistake. (laughs)

 

[mellpapa]

I want to recreate the red arrow part, the part marked by the red line, as it was before it became a ghost ship.
So I made a drawing based on this image.


It's just a simple drawing that I need to understand.
I don't care if other people look at it and say, 'I don't know how you do it.
It looks like the pillars of the Belfry are decorated with knights in armor.
Let's do some more research.
I think I found something just like this on the hull exterior, on the railing pillar section.


This is it!　Look at the red arrow!
I need to make this for decoration.
What should I use to make it?
I'll think about it for a while.


I redrew the drawing.
I'm not sure if I can make it exactly the same as this one. ...... I don't have that much skill, so I hope it's somewhat similar.
And this drawing is not necessarily correct.


I'm making a railing post, and when I insert the blade of my design knife just at the edge of the wood, the corner chips off.
← The corner is chipped off.
What can I do to prevent this from happening?


Soak the wood edge with superglue to harden it, and the corners will not be chipped.


See, the corners are not chipped.
I'm going to soak them in superglue again and make them hard.


I added more streak carving, and again, soaked it in instant glue to harden it.


After further processing, I soaked it in instant glue to harden it before cutting it apart.
I was able to do this without any damage to the corners.
The liquid type of instant glue soaks in well and hardens well.


The handrail posts are done so far. Now all that's left is the belfry.
This is also quite difficult. How should I make it?
I'm pondering again. That's it for today.

 

[Uwek]

Very good hint with the superglue - thanks for showing

 

[mellpapa]

Very good hint with the superglue - thanks for showing

Hello Uwek.
It was not my idea to use superglue to fix the wood edge.
I saw a professional craftsman doing this and I copied him.

 

[mellpapa]

Make a jig to make the roof part of the belfry.


Cut out the plywood to make a jig.
Soak 3 pieces of 1mm-thick cypress wood and 1 piece of 0.5mm-thick cypress wood in water and press them into the jig.


When the cypress wood was dry, I took it out, glued the four pieces together with tight bond, and pushed them into the jig again.


Waiting for the tight bond to dry.


The cypress wood is now in the shape as shown in the jig.
Cut the necessary parts to make the roof components.


Now that I have most of the parts, I'm going to assemble it.
It looks good.


I tentatively assembled it on the deck. At that time, I put a doll together with it.
It looks a little deformed, but it's nice.
The size seems to be just right, and I'm satisfied with myself.
Now I need to make a bell and a bell hanger to hang it.
So what should I use for the bell?

 

[mellpapa]

The belfry is painted German gray and temporarily assembled to the hull. The bell has not been made yet.

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]
You've been trying to figure out how to make the handrail posts.
The red arrow in the red circle in the image. Time just flies by without any good ideas...
Incidentally, I received a request to build a workbench, and while I was building it, I was using a circular saw to dig a groove for the bottom plate of the drawer, and here I had an idea.
I thought, "Can't I make it with a circular saw? ...
A quick experiment.


We'll get started right away with materials and props.


I used a 1mm thick circular saw blade with clams.
The 1mm blade was a bit thick.

I cut each of them.


Hmmm...it's a little big.
I'll try a second experiment with a 0.5mm thick blade.

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This is the second experiment.
The corners are broken when cutting at the end.
I need to smear some superglue to harden it before the last cut.
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This is the third experiment.
I soaked it with instant adhesive.


It was a clean cut.


Temporarily assembled in the main body.


This might be a good idea.
Let's mass produce it.


I made 56 pieces and had 11 failures when cutting them, but I was able to make 45 usable posts.
I need about 50 more including spares, so I tried to mass-produce them, but...I ran out of instant glue.
I'll go buy some tomorrow.
I will mass-produce about 50 pieces after that.


A commemorative photo with a 5 yen coin.
Now, I'll buy instant glue tomorrow.
By the way, the instant adhesives that harden the wood mouth are liquid type.
It is not a jelly type.

 

[Heinrich]

You are creating a proper stanchion factory there! As usual, you are doing excellent work and with each part added, the ship just gets more and more impressive.

 

[mellpapa]

You are creating a proper stanchion factory there! As usual, you are doing excellent work and with each part added, the ship just gets more and more impressive.

Mr Heinrich.
Thank you for your constant concern.
Crafting the Silent Mary is difficult, very difficult.
There is so much I don't know, my imagination is not up to scratch and my creativity is lagging behind.

 

[mellpapa]

The mass production of the support columns has been completed, so 0.5 mm brass wire is prepared for the columns and inserted into the upper part of the bullwork and glued in place.
It is a time-consuming process because of the 0.5 mm brass wire.
This is the starboard side.


Work on the starboard side is completed and the port side strut is inserted and glued in place.


Close-up view of the gluing of the support columns.


The handrail posts are painted in German grey and the handrail parts are also painted in German grey and glued to the posts. The adhesive used was a two-component epoxy adhesive.
This is the starboard side.


Glued handrail on port side.
So this is what it looks like.
I'm kind of happy because it turned out exactly as I had created it.
Now I'll go on to work on the areas where I haven't glued the railings yet. I'll take photos and update the website when I've made some progress.

 

[Frank48]

View attachment 297307
The mass production of the support columns has been completed, so 0.5 mm brass wire is prepared for the columns and inserted into the upper part of the bullwork and glued in place.
It is a time-consuming process because of the 0.5 mm brass wire.
This is the starboard side.

View attachment 297308
Work on the starboard side is completed and the port side strut is inserted and glued in place.

View attachment 297309
Close-up view of the gluing of the support columns.

View attachment 297311
The handrail posts are painted in German grey and the handrail parts are also painted in German grey and glued to the posts. The adhesive used was a two-component epoxy adhesive.
This is the starboard side.

View attachment 297312
Glued handrail on port side.
So this is what it looks like.
I'm kind of happy because it turned out exactly as I had created it.
Now I'll go on to work on the areas where I haven't glued the railings yet. I'll take photos and update the website when I've made some progress.

Good morning, more and more captivating

 

[mellpapa]

Good morning, more and more captivating

Dear Frank48.
Thank you. The railing posts on the Silent Mary are very tricky.

 

[Philski]

View attachment 297253
The belfry is painted German gray and temporarily assembled to the hull. The bell has not been made yet.

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]View attachment 297254
You've been trying to figure out how to make the handrail posts.
The red arrow in the red circle in the image. Time just flies by without any good ideas...
Incidentally, I received a request to build a workbench, and while I was building it, I was using a circular saw to dig a groove for the bottom plate of the drawer, and here I had an idea.
I thought, "Can't I make it with a circular saw? ...
A quick experiment.

View attachment 297255
We'll get started right away with materials and props.

View attachment 297256
I used a 1mm thick circular saw blade with clams.
The 1mm blade was a bit thick.
View attachment 297257
I cut each of them.

View attachment 297258
Hmmm...it's a little big.
I'll try a second experiment with a 0.5mm thick blade.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

View attachment 297259
This is the second experiment.
The corners are broken when cutting at the end.
I need to smear some superglue to harden it before the last cut.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

View attachment 297260
This is the third experiment.
I soaked it with instant adhesive.

View attachment 297261
It was a clean cut.

View attachment 297262
Temporarily assembled in the main body.

View attachment 297263
This might be a good idea.
Let's mass produce it.

View attachment 297264
I made 56 pieces and had 11 failures when cutting them, but I was able to make 45 usable posts.
I need about 50 more including spares, so I tried to mass-produce them, but...I ran out of instant glue.
I'll go buy some tomorrow.
I will mass-produce about 50 pieces after that.

View attachment 297265
A commemorative photo with a 5 yen coin.
Now, I'll buy instant glue tomorrow.
By the way, the instant adhesives that harden the wood mouth are liquid type.
It is not a jelly type.

What wood species did you use? Basswood?

 

[mellpapa]

What wood species did you use? Basswood?

Hello, Mr Phils.
The type of wood is cypress.
The Silent Mary is made almost entirely of cypress.
The keel and frame are linden plywood, the filler is balsa and falcata, the outer hull sheathing is air veneer and the deck sheathing is 1 mm thick balsa.
Everything else is cypress wood.
This material is readily available as it is sold cheaply as cypress work material in DIY stores.
The only other wood available is agatis and pine. Teak and basswood timber are not sold.
If you go online, you can buy a variety of timber from timber shops, but the prices are high. cypress work material the cheapest.

 

[Philski]

Hello, Mr Phils.
The type of wood is cypress.
The Silent Mary is made almost entirely of cypress.
The keel and frame are linden plywood, the filler is balsa and falcata, the outer hull sheathing is air veneer and the deck sheathing is 1 mm thick balsa.
Everything else is cypress wood.
This material is readily available as it is sold cheaply as cypress work material in DIY stores.
The only other wood available is agatis and pine. Teak and basswood timber are not sold.
If you go online, you can buy a variety of timber from timber shops, but the prices are high. cypress work material the cheapest.

Look for Paulownia. Japan also has Elm, Pine and Cedar....

I lived in Japan for 6 years and only did modest woodworking while I was there ( and no model building)

 

[mellpapa]

Hello Mr. Philski
Pine and cedar are available at DIY stores.
I see that falcata wood is gone now and paulownia wood is sold instead.
I use paulownia wood, cedar wood and pine wood for cases to carry model sailing boats.
These can also be used for sailing ship models. Thank you very much for the information.

 

[mellpapa]

These are the parts on which the bell is installed.
I tried to make a bell by cutting a round bar, but I couldn't get it right.
So I checked the internet for wooden sailboat model shops and looked for a bell... and there it was. It is made of brass and the size is just right at 6 mm.


It is immediately fitted to the Belfry.
Well, that's about it.
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Continuation of handrail construction.
The posts are erected. It's a pain to get the height right.
The port side has already been glued in place.


The handrail was glued to the posts.
We used an epoxy two-component adhesive mixture and left it until it hardened.
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Next post for handrail. It's difficult to cut them at an angle. The angle is 9°. It's messy and the lengths don't line up.
I set 0.5 mm brass wire.


The posts are positioned and glued in place to set the posts.


The gluing of the port side strut has been completed.


The starboard side is the next to finish gluing.


The handrail boards are being put on to check.
The white dwarfs are also coming to have a look.
The handrail is overscaled but I don't mind.

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The next step is to craft the support columns for the red line section.


Cutting out parts. Cutting bars 3 mm x 3 mmn and bars 4 mm x 4 mm at a 19° angle.
Cutting more than the required number.


Details are added with a design knife, but it is very tedious.
I wish I hadn't put this detail in. I don't think I'd mind using a regular stick.


Attach 0.5 mm diameter brass wire.


It is glued from 4 mm x 4 mm bars first.


After that, the 3 mm x 3 mm bars are glued together.


The struts and handrail boards are painted and glued with a two-component epoxy adhesive.
The handrail on the bow side is next.
But that's all for today.