Hello,
It is a master's job.
It is a master's job.
Soleil Royal by Heller - an Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build by Hubac’s Historian
- Thread starter Hubac’s Historian
- Start date
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- 1689 heller hubac refit soleil royal
Hi Marc,
Beautiful work as normal, and great description of your method.
Cheers,
Stephen.
Thank you very much Paul, Stephen and Phoscar, and to everyone else for the likes and stopping by.
This is just an alive’n kickin’ post to say that work has continued, albeit at a meager pace. I am starting, though, to regain some of my former momentum.
I made the starboard channels, and I have all of the ground colors painted for the starboard, aft bulwark. I won’t bother posting pictures of those items until they are installed on the model, as it is nothing new to see.
Last night, I made and installed the lam-beams for the forecastle deck:
Tonight, I can sand them fair and then make a cardboard pattern for the forecastle deck.
More to follow. Try not to let COVID overwhelm your thoughts and emotions - despite the grind we are living through now, life won’t always be like this.
All the best,
Marc
I made the starboard channels, and I have all of the ground colors painted for the starboard, aft bulwark. I won’t bother posting pictures of those items until they are installed on the model, as it is nothing new to see.
Last night, I made and installed the lam-beams for the forecastle deck:
Tonight, I can sand them fair and then make a cardboard pattern for the forecastle deck.
More to follow. Try not to let COVID overwhelm your thoughts and emotions - despite the grind we are living through now, life won’t always be like this.
All the best,
Marc
The process of making new decks is somewhat complicated by the fact that the centerline reference for the line of the masts does not neatly correspond with the width of the decks, at any given point, owing to the hull distortion discussed earlier. I make perfectly scribed half-patterns that correspond with the centerline of the masts:
Above, the deck length is over-long for the time-being. Below, you can see how adding width extensions to the beakhead bulkhead resulted in a slight concavity that the deck must scribe to:
Here, you can get a sense for just to what degree the early bow extensions increased the width of the hull:
I use the stock decking to find the new scribe for the bulwarks, since the profiles are reasonably close; it only takes a little re-shaping to get the pattern right. I then transfer that profile to my cardboard and refine each half until it is a perfect scribe.
As a side-note, the painting on that kit deck was part of a tech demonstration I did for the 2018 NorthEast Joint Clubs demonstration. I was showing how I wash and weather these two different base coats to arrive at the effect seen on the model. The darker brown would be what the pristine, freshly painted deadworks would ordinarily look like. The color is referred to, by the French as Ventre de Biche, or belly of the doe, in English. The lighter tan is the base-coat for my decks.
Here is the new deck, before layout and scribing, with the foremast properly located:
There will still be a mast plate and mast collar to follow, but the opening for the mast is, for now, as tight as it needs to be.
Little by little, we are getting there! Thank you for the likes, comments and for looking in. More to follow…
Above, the deck length is over-long for the time-being. Below, you can see how adding width extensions to the beakhead bulkhead resulted in a slight concavity that the deck must scribe to:
Here, you can get a sense for just to what degree the early bow extensions increased the width of the hull:
I use the stock decking to find the new scribe for the bulwarks, since the profiles are reasonably close; it only takes a little re-shaping to get the pattern right. I then transfer that profile to my cardboard and refine each half until it is a perfect scribe.
As a side-note, the painting on that kit deck was part of a tech demonstration I did for the 2018 NorthEast Joint Clubs demonstration. I was showing how I wash and weather these two different base coats to arrive at the effect seen on the model. The darker brown would be what the pristine, freshly painted deadworks would ordinarily look like. The color is referred to, by the French as Ventre de Biche, or belly of the doe, in English. The lighter tan is the base-coat for my decks.
Here is the new deck, before layout and scribing, with the foremast properly located:
There will still be a mast plate and mast collar to follow, but the opening for the mast is, for now, as tight as it needs to be.
Little by little, we are getting there! Thank you for the likes, comments and for looking in. More to follow…
Attachments
Alive and kickin’, part II.
I have finally painted the last bulwark to satisfaction. Here it is, dry-fit:
I have fitted all the channels and scraped away paint in the glue locations:
A couple of troublesome little details needed to be resolved. First, I was thinking about how the plank-ends of the f’ocsle and quarter deck were supposed to resolve, over the last exposed beam. My first instinct was to have the plank ends exposed, with a slight overhang beyond the beam.
The more I studied other models, though, it dawned on me that this would not be correct for French practice in the latter half of the 17th C. Take a look at the following examples:
On Michel Saunier’s SR, the plank ends are let into the last beam, which is dimensionally deeper to accept the plank thickness.
The same can be seen on the louis Quinze:
above photos courtesy of Marc Yeu
So, I decided to cut back my deck piece, and I will in-fill a strip of styrene with a just-broken edge to highlight the demarcation ever so slightly:
My f’ocsle beam isn’t perfectly straight, apparently, but this discrepancy will be concealed by the f’ocsle break railing and belfry. You will see the detail at the deck entry points. I will also apply a simple half-round moulding to cover the joint between the beam and the applied strip.
Next, I realized that I needed to cut-back more of the kit deck ledge so that I could abut my quarter deck beam to the hanging knee, as I did at the f’ocsle. This shortening of the Q-deck also provided more clearance for the main halyard tackle. I’m not sure if I’m correctly referencing the line, but it reaves through the large bitt, just aft of the mast (with a piece of blue tape on it).
Lastly, I wanted to make-up the supporting brace that ties each successive level of the stern together. I laminate two pieces of 1/16” stock together, and leave them to dry over a camber former.
The one caveat is that I wanted to introduce ever so slightly more camber over the next two levels of the stern. I had done so, along the top edge of the mid-balcony rail. Here is how that compares with the former:
The difference is barely perceptible, but it is one of many small details that will improve the overall perception of the thing.
For my lamination, I applied three pieces of green tape to the center inch of the former:
And the match was spot-on:
When I get to the top tier of windows, I may do as many as six pieces of tape, as the camber would be greatest at the poop and poop-royal decks.
Well, that’s where things stand for now. Hopefully, tomorrow, I will glue-in the bulwark. Then, I can cope the brace to delineate the upper limit of the second window tier, while strengthening the bulwark connection. Then, I can pattern the window piece in cardboard and do an exact layout drawing.
Thank you all for your continued interest in the project.
Best,
Marc
I have finally painted the last bulwark to satisfaction. Here it is, dry-fit:
I have fitted all the channels and scraped away paint in the glue locations:
A couple of troublesome little details needed to be resolved. First, I was thinking about how the plank-ends of the f’ocsle and quarter deck were supposed to resolve, over the last exposed beam. My first instinct was to have the plank ends exposed, with a slight overhang beyond the beam.
The more I studied other models, though, it dawned on me that this would not be correct for French practice in the latter half of the 17th C. Take a look at the following examples:
On Michel Saunier’s SR, the plank ends are let into the last beam, which is dimensionally deeper to accept the plank thickness.
The same can be seen on the louis Quinze:
above photos courtesy of Marc Yeu
So, I decided to cut back my deck piece, and I will in-fill a strip of styrene with a just-broken edge to highlight the demarcation ever so slightly:
My f’ocsle beam isn’t perfectly straight, apparently, but this discrepancy will be concealed by the f’ocsle break railing and belfry. You will see the detail at the deck entry points. I will also apply a simple half-round moulding to cover the joint between the beam and the applied strip.
Next, I realized that I needed to cut-back more of the kit deck ledge so that I could abut my quarter deck beam to the hanging knee, as I did at the f’ocsle. This shortening of the Q-deck also provided more clearance for the main halyard tackle. I’m not sure if I’m correctly referencing the line, but it reaves through the large bitt, just aft of the mast (with a piece of blue tape on it).
Lastly, I wanted to make-up the supporting brace that ties each successive level of the stern together. I laminate two pieces of 1/16” stock together, and leave them to dry over a camber former.
The one caveat is that I wanted to introduce ever so slightly more camber over the next two levels of the stern. I had done so, along the top edge of the mid-balcony rail. Here is how that compares with the former:
The difference is barely perceptible, but it is one of many small details that will improve the overall perception of the thing.
For my lamination, I applied three pieces of green tape to the center inch of the former:
And the match was spot-on:
When I get to the top tier of windows, I may do as many as six pieces of tape, as the camber would be greatest at the poop and poop-royal decks.
Well, that’s where things stand for now. Hopefully, tomorrow, I will glue-in the bulwark. Then, I can cope the brace to delineate the upper limit of the second window tier, while strengthening the bulwark connection. Then, I can pattern the window piece in cardboard and do an exact layout drawing.
Thank you all for your continued interest in the project.
Best,
Marc
That is high praise from you, Dan! Sometimes, I fantasize about doing something like what you are doing with the Heller Victory; to show Heller SR at three distinct points in history. The first would be SR 1670, then what I’m doing now (1689), then SR 1693, which is closest to what the kit/Tanneron model represent. Even though I’m relatively young, though, I don’t think I have THAT much time 
I’ve done a fair amount of hemming and hawing over a number of things, but I eventually arrived at the place(s) I think I need to be.
For clarification of the earlier discussion; this is the essential problem of my stern winding out of square. Note, how the starboard aft edge of the upper bulwark increasingly extends beyond port:
I thought I might try drawing arcs of round-up that ranged from extreme to conservative:
I started with the extreme line (far right), but ultimately - a more slight increase of round-up (middle line), appeared to me to be the most organic possibility.
Here is what my ultimate choice of round-up looks like from the starboard side:
It is just enough, I think, to help balance this incongruity - if not completely.
It seems to me that I can also help balance this out when I make the upper stern balcony. Here, I have pulled a uniform cardboard template just away from the port side, so that the outboard edges of the stern balconies align:
I think this will help align visual perception at the exact point where it is most important.
At the end of the day, I am pleased with the slightly increased camber of this bridge-piece:
One thing that has become interesting to consider is this: in gluing up the aft bulwarks, I was very conscious of establishing a realistic sense of tumblehome, as the bulwarks rise. Even accounting for my initial increase in breadth, in the early drawing, I inadvertently maintained the slab-sided verticality of the kit stern. In the left margin, I have noted the discrepancy between where I have arrived, dimensionally, versus where I began schematically:
Pictorially, here is the discrepancy for real:
What is completely fascinating is that the upper width of the stern is almost identical to the stock dimension. Here is the stock poop deck, in place:
Even though this is not where I thought this project was going, when I started, the improved sense of tumblehome was well-worth the sacrifice in stern-width. This isn’t perfect, but it looks more right than wrong:
A montage of development for the next tier of stern lights:
The pilasters of the lower balcony rail don’t seem to align, but this is not reflective of reality. Again, it isn’t perfect, but it’s pretty close.
After drafting:
This isn’t perfect. The drawing can be improved upon with the carving tools, themselves. For the most part, I think this works. I wonder whether I should follow the Berain drawing a little more closely and include an extra line of horizontal window mullions. The false side lights, at this level, have five horizontal lines, but I am trying to balance this tier with the actual stern lights below.
Just for fun, a different iphone filter - Le Soleil Noir:
As always - thank you for looking in. Bon noir!
For clarification of the earlier discussion; this is the essential problem of my stern winding out of square. Note, how the starboard aft edge of the upper bulwark increasingly extends beyond port:
I thought I might try drawing arcs of round-up that ranged from extreme to conservative:
I started with the extreme line (far right), but ultimately - a more slight increase of round-up (middle line), appeared to me to be the most organic possibility.
Here is what my ultimate choice of round-up looks like from the starboard side:
It is just enough, I think, to help balance this incongruity - if not completely.
It seems to me that I can also help balance this out when I make the upper stern balcony. Here, I have pulled a uniform cardboard template just away from the port side, so that the outboard edges of the stern balconies align:
I think this will help align visual perception at the exact point where it is most important.
At the end of the day, I am pleased with the slightly increased camber of this bridge-piece:
One thing that has become interesting to consider is this: in gluing up the aft bulwarks, I was very conscious of establishing a realistic sense of tumblehome, as the bulwarks rise. Even accounting for my initial increase in breadth, in the early drawing, I inadvertently maintained the slab-sided verticality of the kit stern. In the left margin, I have noted the discrepancy between where I have arrived, dimensionally, versus where I began schematically:
Pictorially, here is the discrepancy for real:
What is completely fascinating is that the upper width of the stern is almost identical to the stock dimension. Here is the stock poop deck, in place:
Even though this is not where I thought this project was going, when I started, the improved sense of tumblehome was well-worth the sacrifice in stern-width. This isn’t perfect, but it looks more right than wrong:
A montage of development for the next tier of stern lights:
The pilasters of the lower balcony rail don’t seem to align, but this is not reflective of reality. Again, it isn’t perfect, but it’s pretty close.
After drafting:
This isn’t perfect. The drawing can be improved upon with the carving tools, themselves. For the most part, I think this works. I wonder whether I should follow the Berain drawing a little more closely and include an extra line of horizontal window mullions. The false side lights, at this level, have five horizontal lines, but I am trying to balance this tier with the actual stern lights below.
Just for fun, a different iphone filter - Le Soleil Noir:
As always - thank you for looking in. Bon noir!
I thought I was obsessive compulsive... 
.
In truth, your attention to detail is precisely why this is a one-of-a-kind build. Respect.
.In truth, your attention to detail is precisely why this is a one-of-a-kind build. Respect.
Marc!
It is Fantastic how it looks like !!!
OOO!!!
It is Fantastic how it looks like !!!
OOO!!!
Hi Marc,
I cannot really add to what the other guys have said, but once again your work is stunning.
Cheers,
Stephen.
You gentlemen are all very kind. Thank you for your compliments.
Paul - the funny thing about genetics is that my children have inherited my OCD. There wasn’t a name for it, in the 80’s, and I was already self-medicating with vodka and Crystal Light by the 7th grade. Fortunately, sports in highschool provided an outlet for my nervous energy, but craft-work has always been a welcome distraction from a racing mind. I tell my kids, who are also artistically inclined, that project work is often the best distraction.
Especially in these times, which are fraught with conflict and uncertainty, I have found Soleil Royal to be the greatest distraction possible.
Keep modeling friends - it is pure soul-edifying magic.
Paul - the funny thing about genetics is that my children have inherited my OCD. There wasn’t a name for it, in the 80’s, and I was already self-medicating with vodka and Crystal Light by the 7th grade. Fortunately, sports in highschool provided an outlet for my nervous energy, but craft-work has always been a welcome distraction from a racing mind. I tell my kids, who are also artistically inclined, that project work is often the best distraction.
Especially in these times, which are fraught with conflict and uncertainty, I have found Soleil Royal to be the greatest distraction possible.
Keep modeling friends - it is pure soul-edifying magic.
The detail at this scale for this model is stunning.
‘Much appreciated, Kurt! You are a meistro of fine detail, yourself.
My method for making the window plates is well-documented, earlier in the log, so I won’t go into great detail. Some pictures:
I found it best to fit the rough blanks between the pilasters, first, before relieving the negative space panels. This way, I could trace on the backside, the top and bottom edges of the top rail, thereby knowing just how thin to make the reliefs.
Once all of the panels were in, and I had also glued-in the central bell-flower ornament, I could begin modeling these reliefs:
It really doesn’t take much to give them a little shape and dimension.
I began framing in the bulkheads:
I like to glue-in positive stops, top and bottom, so that it is easier to glue-in the bulkheads and get them aligned exactly where they need to be.
Keen observers will note that the bulkheads do not align, neatly with the tops of the pilasters beneath them. Instead, they fan out more towards the sides:
I considered whether to re-draw the plate, but determined that this would result in less pleasingly shaped and proportioned windows:
The discrepancy is a result of my decision to revise the tumblehome of the upper bulwarks. The lower tier is based upon the more vertical tumblehome of my original drawing, so the pitch of the window stiles is less severe.
This middle tier simply follows the more pronounced pitch of the accentuated tumblehome. In the end, the lower balcony railing will serve as a visual interrupter that minimizes this discrepancy.
I point all of this out to highlight just one of many imperfect compromises I have made, where I have deemed one aspect of the construction to carry more visual importance over another. In this instance, the whole model is more ship-like with a more pinched tumblehome, and the windows have a pleasant shape and arc of camber.
Thank you for your likes and comments and continued interest in this project. More to follow.
I found it best to fit the rough blanks between the pilasters, first, before relieving the negative space panels. This way, I could trace on the backside, the top and bottom edges of the top rail, thereby knowing just how thin to make the reliefs.
Once all of the panels were in, and I had also glued-in the central bell-flower ornament, I could begin modeling these reliefs:
It really doesn’t take much to give them a little shape and dimension.
I began framing in the bulkheads:
I like to glue-in positive stops, top and bottom, so that it is easier to glue-in the bulkheads and get them aligned exactly where they need to be.
Keen observers will note that the bulkheads do not align, neatly with the tops of the pilasters beneath them. Instead, they fan out more towards the sides:
I considered whether to re-draw the plate, but determined that this would result in less pleasingly shaped and proportioned windows:
The discrepancy is a result of my decision to revise the tumblehome of the upper bulwarks. The lower tier is based upon the more vertical tumblehome of my original drawing, so the pitch of the window stiles is less severe.
This middle tier simply follows the more pronounced pitch of the accentuated tumblehome. In the end, the lower balcony railing will serve as a visual interrupter that minimizes this discrepancy.
I point all of this out to highlight just one of many imperfect compromises I have made, where I have deemed one aspect of the construction to carry more visual importance over another. In this instance, the whole model is more ship-like with a more pinched tumblehome, and the windows have a pleasant shape and arc of camber.
Thank you for your likes and comments and continued interest in this project. More to follow.
Truly magnificent Marc,
The stern is already a feast for the eye, I think the compromises you talk of are quite small and will fade into the background..
Cheers,
Stephen.
The stern is already a feast for the eye, I think the compromises you talk of are quite small and will fade into the background..
Cheers,
Stephen.
Thank you, Stephen. I also think that will be the case. Mostly, I point these things out to demonstrate that there is no such thing as a perfect model, in the hope of encouraging others to try some of these kit-bash techniques; something along the lines of not allowing the perfect to be the enemy of the really good enough.
My method for making the window plates is well-documented, earlier in the log, so I won’t go into great detail. Some pictures:
I found it best to fit the rough blanks between the pilasters, first, before relieving the negative space panels. This way, I could trace on the backside, the top and bottom edges of the top rail, thereby knowing just how thin to make the reliefs.
Once all of the panels were in, and I had also glued-in the central bell-flower ornament, I could begin modeling these reliefs:
It really doesn’t take much to give them a little shape and dimension.
I began framing in the bulkheads:
I like to glue-in positive stops, top and bottom, so that it is easier to glue-in the bulkheads and get them aligned exactly where they need to be.
Keen observers will note that the bulkheads do not align, neatly with the tops of the pilasters beneath them. Instead, they fan out more towards the sides:
I considered whether to re-draw the plate, but determined that this would result in less pleasingly shaped and proportioned windows:
The discrepancy is a result of my decision to revise the tumblehome of the upper bulwarks. The lower tier is based upon the more vertical tumblehome of my original drawing, so the pitch of the window stiles is less severe.
This middle tier simply follows the more pronounced pitch of the accentuated tumblehome. In the end, the lower balcony railing will serve as a visual interrupter that minimizes this discrepancy.
I point all of this out to highlight just one of many imperfect compromises I have made, where I have deemed one aspect of the construction to carry more visual importance over another. In this instance, the whole model is more ship-like with a more pinched tumblehome, and the windows have a pleasant shape and arc of camber.
Thank you for your likes and comments and continued interest in this project. More to follow.
My method for making the window plates is well-documented, earlier in the log, so I won’t go into great detail. Some pictures:
I found it best to fit the rough blanks between the pilasters, first, before relieving the negative space panels. This way, I could trace on the backside, the top and bottom edges of the top rail, thereby knowing just how thin to make the reliefs.
Once all of the panels were in, and I had also glued-in the central bell-flower ornament, I could begin modeling these reliefs:
It really doesn’t take much to give them a little shape and dimension.
I began framing in the bulkheads:
I like to glue-in positive stops, top and bottom, so that it is easier to glue-in the bulkheads and get them aligned exactly where they need to be.
Keen observers will note that the bulkheads do not align, neatly with the tops of the pilasters beneath them. Instead, they fan out more towards the sides:
I considered whether to re-draw the plate, but determined that this would result in less pleasingly shaped and proportioned windows:
The discrepancy is a result of my decision to revise the tumblehome of the upper bulwarks. The lower tier is based upon the more vertical tumblehome of my original drawing, so the pitch of the window stiles is less severe.
This middle tier simply follows the more pronounced pitch of the accentuated tumblehome. In the end, the lower balcony railing will serve as a visual interrupter that minimizes this discrepancy.
I point all of this out to highlight just one of many imperfect compromises I have made, where I have deemed one aspect of the construction to carry more visual importance over another. In this instance, the whole model is more ship-like with a more pinched tumblehome, and the windows have a pleasant shape and arc of camber.
Thank you for your likes and comments and continued interest in this project. More to follow.
These window banks are incredibly labor-intensive, but the process of making them has been very enjoyable for me. What I am doing, here, essentially mirrors what Tanneron did for the sterns of his models. The damaged stern of L’Agreable illustrates how his windows are all pierced into one plate, as seen with the lower bank of windows:
Considering the density of detail in such a small space, this method seems far easier than framing each individual window. Getting all of the elements (window frames and pilasters to flow harmoniously would, otherwise be quite difficult.
As I have done previously, I add window backstops to the bulkheads as added insurance that the windows can’t drop out of their frames, if the CA bonds should ever fail:
I remain indebted to Druxey for showing me how to make really good acetate windows by simply scribing the mullions into the acetate, and then filling those engravings with medium grey acrylic paint:
It really is simple and it just looks so much better than anything else, at scale.
Of course, I will next plank-in beneath the windows, but I am pleased with how the stern is rising:
One detail that isn’t so apparent now, but will become so after planking, is the chamfer I filed into the door sides; this chamfer will create a shadow relief that will more clearly delineate the door opening. For the door handles, I recycled a pair of my frieze scrolls, which had the right shape and were sized closely enough.
The round-up really helps to minimize the warped geometry of my stern:
At this stage, it is becoming more apparent how the increase in hull-width has established a more ship-like impression of a stable gun platform:
This is quite a difference from the stock kit.
So, I will plank and paint beneath the windows, install the balcony bulwark, and create the cap-rail for the balcony bulwarks. I will then take a break from the stern so that I can focus on finishing certain details.
I need to paint and install the starboard spirketting on the main deck. The f’ocsle beam needs re-touching, where I installed the moulding. The starboard bulwark joint needs to be puttied and painted. I need to fit, paint and install the quarter deck beam. Then, I need to retouch the exterior joint for the starboard aft bulwark. Finally, I need to install the starboard channels and fit all of the buttressing knees.
When all of that is ship-shape, I will return to the stern. One fun thing to make are the pass-through archways that support the figures of Africa and the Americas:
On the back-burner of my mind, I’ve been thinking about how best to make up this piece so that I can represent the delicate acanthus carvings. I think I know what to do now. The most important thing is getting the scale and shape of the opening right.
Following that, I’ll tackle the third level of stern lights.
Thank you for your interest, your likes and comments, and for looking in!
Considering the density of detail in such a small space, this method seems far easier than framing each individual window. Getting all of the elements (window frames and pilasters to flow harmoniously would, otherwise be quite difficult.
As I have done previously, I add window backstops to the bulkheads as added insurance that the windows can’t drop out of their frames, if the CA bonds should ever fail:
I remain indebted to Druxey for showing me how to make really good acetate windows by simply scribing the mullions into the acetate, and then filling those engravings with medium grey acrylic paint:
It really is simple and it just looks so much better than anything else, at scale.
Of course, I will next plank-in beneath the windows, but I am pleased with how the stern is rising:
One detail that isn’t so apparent now, but will become so after planking, is the chamfer I filed into the door sides; this chamfer will create a shadow relief that will more clearly delineate the door opening. For the door handles, I recycled a pair of my frieze scrolls, which had the right shape and were sized closely enough.
The round-up really helps to minimize the warped geometry of my stern:
At this stage, it is becoming more apparent how the increase in hull-width has established a more ship-like impression of a stable gun platform:
This is quite a difference from the stock kit.
So, I will plank and paint beneath the windows, install the balcony bulwark, and create the cap-rail for the balcony bulwarks. I will then take a break from the stern so that I can focus on finishing certain details.
I need to paint and install the starboard spirketting on the main deck. The f’ocsle beam needs re-touching, where I installed the moulding. The starboard bulwark joint needs to be puttied and painted. I need to fit, paint and install the quarter deck beam. Then, I need to retouch the exterior joint for the starboard aft bulwark. Finally, I need to install the starboard channels and fit all of the buttressing knees.
When all of that is ship-shape, I will return to the stern. One fun thing to make are the pass-through archways that support the figures of Africa and the Americas:
On the back-burner of my mind, I’ve been thinking about how best to make up this piece so that I can represent the delicate acanthus carvings. I think I know what to do now. The most important thing is getting the scale and shape of the opening right.
Following that, I’ll tackle the third level of stern lights.
Thank you for your interest, your likes and comments, and for looking in!