Marc, spectacular! No other word for how the stern is shaping up.
Kind Regards
Nigel
Kind Regards
Nigel
Soleil Royal by Heller - an Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build by Hubac’s Historian
- Thread starter Hubac’s Historian
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- 1689 heller hubac refit soleil royal
Aurelian, Stephen and Nigel - thank you very much!
amazing paint (and modeling) job - 
Here is a decent back-lit shot that shows how well the CA fog disappeared:
I’ve modified the supporting pilasters for between the middle and upper balconies. Owing to all of the modifications and scratch-work, the height between balconies is a little different. This necessitated adding plastic, top and bottom, to make up the difference, but I also added a strip of .032 to the backs of these because I felt they were too spindly and slight looking to be doing the support work they represent:
The other little side project was to create a glue lip to make it easier to mount the upper balcony bulwarks; I did this with a bit of the smallest quarter-round strip that I had:
With that in place, it was much easier to make a cardboard template that followed the camber of the balcony, at the appropriate raking angle, fore and aft. This also enabled me to lay out the 3/32” pilasters. I should mention that my final attempt at heat-bending the stock balcony bulwark was a failure.
I filled a large pasta pot with water and heated to a near boil. I rubbed some olive oil on the side of the pot, and attempted to gently induce a curve. Unfortunately, there’s no getting around the fact that the ornamental spindles of the railing are much thinner than the caprail. As such, they flash malleable much sooner and then become irreversibly distorted. Given that, I realized there was no way to get around making the balcony bulwarks from scratch.
For whatever reason, this is a detail that was very difficult to draw. Irrespective of what exactly is happening with the pilasters below, the only way to draw a repeating element like this is to ensure that the panels for the spindles are all the same uniform size.
After much re-drawing, I got the port half down to an acceptable draft, which could be improved upon with the making of the thing:
For some reason, I just could not get the spacing right for the first panel, starboard of center. So, I made a mirror photocopy of the port side and this seemed to work perfectly. The guaranteed symmetry between sides also helps smooth over some of the hand-drawn imperfection of the thing:
As I say, I’ve found that, if I can get the drawing layout reasonably close, then I can bring it home with the tools. My drawing is no worse than the stock rendering of this detail, so that’s a go for me.
I’ve modified the supporting pilasters for between the middle and upper balconies. Owing to all of the modifications and scratch-work, the height between balconies is a little different. This necessitated adding plastic, top and bottom, to make up the difference, but I also added a strip of .032 to the backs of these because I felt they were too spindly and slight looking to be doing the support work they represent:
The other little side project was to create a glue lip to make it easier to mount the upper balcony bulwarks; I did this with a bit of the smallest quarter-round strip that I had:
With that in place, it was much easier to make a cardboard template that followed the camber of the balcony, at the appropriate raking angle, fore and aft. This also enabled me to lay out the 3/32” pilasters. I should mention that my final attempt at heat-bending the stock balcony bulwark was a failure.
I filled a large pasta pot with water and heated to a near boil. I rubbed some olive oil on the side of the pot, and attempted to gently induce a curve. Unfortunately, there’s no getting around the fact that the ornamental spindles of the railing are much thinner than the caprail. As such, they flash malleable much sooner and then become irreversibly distorted. Given that, I realized there was no way to get around making the balcony bulwarks from scratch.
For whatever reason, this is a detail that was very difficult to draw. Irrespective of what exactly is happening with the pilasters below, the only way to draw a repeating element like this is to ensure that the panels for the spindles are all the same uniform size.
After much re-drawing, I got the port half down to an acceptable draft, which could be improved upon with the making of the thing:
For some reason, I just could not get the spacing right for the first panel, starboard of center. So, I made a mirror photocopy of the port side and this seemed to work perfectly. The guaranteed symmetry between sides also helps smooth over some of the hand-drawn imperfection of the thing:
As I say, I’ve found that, if I can get the drawing layout reasonably close, then I can bring it home with the tools. My drawing is no worse than the stock rendering of this detail, so that’s a go for me.
Excellent work Marc. Just a thought, have you not thought about bending the Baluster filigree work out of fine wire rather than carving?
Kind Regards
Nigel
Kind Regards
Nigel
Until you mentioned it, Nigel, I hadn’t really considered it. I’ve taken liberty to screenshot a couple of Uwek’s photos from the Rochefort conference in 2018.
Tuset employs this technique to wonderful effect on his upper balcony frieze:
While Magerote, on his model of the SP, appears to sculpt his ornaments from polymerized clay:
I think at 1:48 it is easier to make convincing wire ornaments. Everything is easier in 1:48. I will follow through with my carving because that has worked well for me, and I can add the accent bits that give the frieze a little dimension:
If, for whatever reason, that process proves too frustrating, or the result isn’t good enough, I’ll revisit the wire idea. My main objection to going to that idea right away has to do with consistency. No matter how well, I achieve it, wire would be a clear departure from what I did on the amortisement.
Tuset employs this technique to wonderful effect on his upper balcony frieze:
While Magerote, on his model of the SP, appears to sculpt his ornaments from polymerized clay:
I think at 1:48 it is easier to make convincing wire ornaments. Everything is easier in 1:48. I will follow through with my carving because that has worked well for me, and I can add the accent bits that give the frieze a little dimension:
If, for whatever reason, that process proves too frustrating, or the result isn’t good enough, I’ll revisit the wire idea. My main objection to going to that idea right away has to do with consistency. No matter how well, I achieve it, wire would be a clear departure from what I did on the amortisement.
Yes I get that Marc, you know what I am like for throwing you the occasional curved ball 
It’s been a pretty active modeling week. I’ve been alternating between the bow and stern. Now that the Bitumen of Judea had arrived, I could finally stain my new cables. It was a test of patience to feed these through one hawse hole and fish it through the next with an improvised hook. Eventually, I got them:
Many thanks to Paul for making these beautiful cables! The bow assembly has to happen in a very specific sequence. Above, you can see that I installed the aft, starboard headrail support timber. Before moving on, it’s essential to scrape away any glue squeeze out and re-touch the black paint, because you won’t have access to that area later.
Also above, I am making a card template for the first section of grating slats that lead out onto the head. I just thought it would be much easier to make this piece as a unit, rather than as individual slats:
The outboard end (above right) of this is the mount for the new seats of ease that I will make a little later in the process.
I spent a lot of extra time fine-tuning the fit of the starboard headrail so that the glue blocks make good contact with the hull. Before I can glue that part on, though, I have to paint and glue-in the starboard grating piece. Once the headrail is in, I can glue in the middle and forward headrail supports.
Simultaneously, I’ve been making the upper balcony bulwark. A montage:
The two panels on the right haven’t been sanded down yet, but you can see what a difference it makes to clean up the face of these balusters. Having learned from prior experience, I find it much easier to frame in all of the borders and pilasters with styrene strip:
Up to this point, the balusters look pretty good. Not perfect, but decent. However, once I start adding the accent bits, the whole thing homogenizes and begins to look a little more uniform:
I still have to make the side panels and the railing, but I am satisfied that I have made a part that is at least as good as the kit version.
Thank you all for your interest and support. More to follow.
Many thanks to Paul for making these beautiful cables! The bow assembly has to happen in a very specific sequence. Above, you can see that I installed the aft, starboard headrail support timber. Before moving on, it’s essential to scrape away any glue squeeze out and re-touch the black paint, because you won’t have access to that area later.
Also above, I am making a card template for the first section of grating slats that lead out onto the head. I just thought it would be much easier to make this piece as a unit, rather than as individual slats:
The outboard end (above right) of this is the mount for the new seats of ease that I will make a little later in the process.
I spent a lot of extra time fine-tuning the fit of the starboard headrail so that the glue blocks make good contact with the hull. Before I can glue that part on, though, I have to paint and glue-in the starboard grating piece. Once the headrail is in, I can glue in the middle and forward headrail supports.
Simultaneously, I’ve been making the upper balcony bulwark. A montage:
The two panels on the right haven’t been sanded down yet, but you can see what a difference it makes to clean up the face of these balusters. Having learned from prior experience, I find it much easier to frame in all of the borders and pilasters with styrene strip:
Up to this point, the balusters look pretty good. Not perfect, but decent. However, once I start adding the accent bits, the whole thing homogenizes and begins to look a little more uniform:
I still have to make the side panels and the railing, but I am satisfied that I have made a part that is at least as good as the kit version.
Thank you all for your interest and support. More to follow.
I do love to watch you work, Marc. So impressive how you take sheets of plastic and them into something magical.
Very impressive work
How do you make these small round heads? It is looking like, that you add them afterwards .....
How do you make these small round heads? It is looking like, that you add them afterwards .....
Excellent work Marc
Kind Regards
Nigel
Kind Regards
Nigel
Thank you all very much for the likes and kind comments.
Uwek, the domed beads are a technique that I discovered early in the build when I was trying to find a realistic way to simulate the bolt heads on the wales.
I take very fine styrene rod (.020), and I slice fine slivers, or discs; the slivers are, themselves, something like .025 - .030. I cut a bunch of them - many more than I need - onto my cut matt, and then I flash over them (about a 1/2” above) with a wand lighter and they melt into perfectly domed circles.
Lastly, I place a spot of styrene adhesive where I want the disc to be and I pick up the domes with the point of a sharpe EXACTO blade and I place them onto the glue. This simple process welds them perfectly into place. For this balcony rail, I used two diameters of styrene rod because I wanted the center tier to have a little more weight.
I’ve used this technique all over the model to simulate the iron work that holds the ship together, and to accent the ornamental work. It is amazing how much these small details add to the overall impression of the thing.
Uwek, the domed beads are a technique that I discovered early in the build when I was trying to find a realistic way to simulate the bolt heads on the wales.
I take very fine styrene rod (.020), and I slice fine slivers, or discs; the slivers are, themselves, something like .025 - .030. I cut a bunch of them - many more than I need - onto my cut matt, and then I flash over them (about a 1/2” above) with a wand lighter and they melt into perfectly domed circles.
Lastly, I place a spot of styrene adhesive where I want the disc to be and I pick up the domes with the point of a sharpe EXACTO blade and I place them onto the glue. This simple process welds them perfectly into place. For this balcony rail, I used two diameters of styrene rod because I wanted the center tier to have a little more weight.
I’ve used this technique all over the model to simulate the iron work that holds the ship together, and to accent the ornamental work. It is amazing how much these small details add to the overall impression of the thing.
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This weekend, I painted and installed the upper balcony support pillars:
I definitely think that beefing these up was a good idea.
I also finally managed to glue-in the starboard headrail. Before doing so, I decided to add a small support that attaches to the middle main wale. This is a small detail that I have observed on various models and portraits:
I had an extra pair of cathead supports, so I used these to fashion these small supports:
I like the continuity of this small addition, as now all of the ornamental pilasters of the headrails are supported. It is well in keeping with the spirit of the kitbash.
Now, I can prepare the figure carvings that are placed just aft of the headrails, and which bridge the bellflower garland between the main deck guns and the headrails:
Prior to installation, I pad the backs of these carvings so that the carving can seat just above the drift rails:
Little by little, we are getting there. There is a continual process of paint-retouches and weathering that is happening simultaneously. Next, I’ll secure the port headrails, so that I can fill-in the intermediary headrail support timbers and begin filling-in the head grating.
Thank you for looking in.
I definitely think that beefing these up was a good idea.
I also finally managed to glue-in the starboard headrail. Before doing so, I decided to add a small support that attaches to the middle main wale. This is a small detail that I have observed on various models and portraits:
I had an extra pair of cathead supports, so I used these to fashion these small supports:
I like the continuity of this small addition, as now all of the ornamental pilasters of the headrails are supported. It is well in keeping with the spirit of the kitbash.
Now, I can prepare the figure carvings that are placed just aft of the headrails, and which bridge the bellflower garland between the main deck guns and the headrails:
Prior to installation, I pad the backs of these carvings so that the carving can seat just above the drift rails:
Little by little, we are getting there. There is a continual process of paint-retouches and weathering that is happening simultaneously. Next, I’ll secure the port headrails, so that I can fill-in the intermediary headrail support timbers and begin filling-in the head grating.
Thank you for looking in.
Fabulous!!
Now your little support is interesting. I have been looking at my head rails and question the lack of support aft of those that sit on the prow.Especially as there is a carved support for the cat head timbers.This has given me food for thought
Now your little support is interesting. I have been looking at my head rails and question the lack of support aft of those that sit on the prow.Especially as there is a carved support for the cat head timbers.This has given me food for thought
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Honestly I’ve run out of superlatives.
Nice to see a proper anchor rope .
.
Me too. I need to buy some more on eBay.
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Coming back to this thread after a while, still enjoy seeing how you reused the heller part. I went at a model exhibition at ingersheim last week end and could see a finnished wooden soleil royal royal (not scratched tho) and another modellist was scratchbuilding a royal louis and did 2 figurehead, one in gold and theother polychrome. (I got a out of the exhibition with a T90MS 1/35 scale model from zvezda, no missing sprue this time)
Thank you, Aurelien. Do you have pics of that Royal Louis?