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SPEEL-JACHT 1640 - Kolderstok 1:50 Scale

Hi Ron. It is great to see that you have progressed so well with the planking of the Speeljacht. From where I am sitting, it looks very good! Thumbsup
 
rtibbs said:
Grant
I would like to say that is my planking job however, that’s from a posting Heinrich made from Han’s G build. If mine turns out half as good as that one I’ll be ecstatic. I’ll be starting the planking soon and to this point I really like the quality of the kit

Ron
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Hi Ron. It is now the third time I have had thread confusion- use my phone too muchROTF. im sure you will be ecstatic with your outcome and yes those are super high standards to chase. Good luck and enjoy.
 
GrantTyler said:
Hi Ron. It is now the third time I have had thread confusion- use my phone too muchROTF. im sure you will be ecstatic with your outcome and yes those are super high standards to chase. Good luck and enjoy.
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Grant, I feel your pain. When I go between, iPad, iPhone and desktop I often get threads mixed.
 
rtibbs said:
Thanks H.
However, you are in China and I am in Florida and I didn't take a macro shot ;)
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Ron, now you have really made me feel nostalgic - I don't know when someone last called me "H" - my PA at VW/Audi always called me that.
 
Planking complete.jpg

I told you at the beginning it would be a slow build. Started in November and its now December.
The planking is finished. Just have a few spots to fill at the bow area and then a final scraping and sanding.

This being a shell first construction technique the framework/mold is only used to form the shell of the hull which will be removed after all planks have been edge glued together. (At least that’s the plan)
I guess, technically you could call this a POB/POF as long as you didn’t glue to the framework. :oops:

1) Removed laser cut planks from sheet and lightly sanded tabs and char from planks.
2) Soaked the walnut planks for approx. (1) hour in water to “soften”.
3) Formed the planks to framework by careful bending and applying heat w/plank bender. Pin/clamp in place until dry.
4)Removed from framework and make any final adjustments to fit plank prior to gluing.
5) Applied PVA to edge of plank carefully to avoid excess glue to keep from adhering plank to framework. (I applied 3M Fineline tape to the frame members as glue doesn’t adhere to the tape) Hopefully.
6) Drilled small 1mm pilot hole in frames before inserting map pins to secure planks while glue dries.

Sure glad that I used water soluble glue as I had to “Field engineer” one of the planks as it had shifted slightly. Next step is to let the glue dry and remove the hull
from the framework. :eek:
 
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Your planking looks REALLY good Ron - you have absolutely nothing to be worried about. It is always an exciting next step to remove the shell from the framework, but I am positive that it will go well. The 3M Fineline tape is a very good idea.
 
Heinrich said:
Your planking looks REALLY good Ron - you have absolutely nothing to be worried about. It is always an exciting next step to remove the shell from the framework, but I am positive that it will go well. The 3M Fineline tape is a very good idea.
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Thanks H, as you well know the hull is very fragile at this point until the internal structures get in place.
Hopefully ole thumbs Ron doesn’t crack it like a walnut. Especially since it’s made of walnut :)
 
Ron you will not crack anything and as to "walnut" that wood is tough and resilient - as you experienced during the bending. For the WB build though, I would recommend that you get the Kolderstok plank bender. You don't need to get the soldering iron part of that as the EU power ratings are different to that in the USA, but you should get the different heads (fitments). @Pathfinder65 Jan will be able to tell you exactly what power (voltage and wattage) soldering iron he uses.
 
Heinrich said:
Ron you will not crack anything and as to "walnut" that wood is tough and resilient - as you experienced during the bending. For the WB build though, I would recommend that you get the Kolderstok plank bender. You don't need to get the soldering iron part of that as the EU power ratings are different to that in the USA, but you should get the different heads (fitments). @Pathfinder65 Jan will be able to tell you exactly what power (voltage and wattage) soldering iron he uses.
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I already have them Heinrich. That’s what I used for the bending. As you know some of them required a 90 degree twist.
I use a 30 watt iron. Works great
 
rtibbs said:
I already have them Heinrich. That’s what I used for the bending. As you know some of them required a 90 degree twist.
I use a 30 watt iron. Works great
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Great stuff - then you are all sorted! Thumbsup
 
Hi Ron. Congratulations on this milestone! Now you can brace it inside with the frames and Voila! The small size of this model is excellent practice and will make work on the WB much easier!Thumbsup
 
I always knew I couldn’t walk and chew gum at the same time. Along with my Speeljacht I’m (kinda) working on parts to another (unnamed) model and couldn’t find enough 1x4 strips. Duh, I was looking at the wrong kit.
 
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