Looking great Ron. Im not sure it was a boo boo re you applying oil after glueing in- I made this mistake with ploy on my Victory and created challenges as the glue bond strength was insufficient.
Getting some of the fiddly bits in place. Grating installed, long benches and inside top rails. Have a few deck "Splinters" to install when the upper rails are fitted.
Next comes the hinges for the hatch, the upper railings, additional planking and benches at the stern.
As the Admiral's condition improves, I'm finding a little more time in the shipyard.
Ron
I guess I didn't realize how tiny this ship was Ron. Very nice work!
It is tiny
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The Speeljacht is really looking good Ron - as per usual on Kolderstok models, there is a beautiful contrast between the Abachi deck and the walnut hull. Great work on the stern. 
That looks so symmetrical and robust - unlike the very fiddly and fragile transoms that you sometimes see on the English and French ships.
That looks so symmetrical and robust - unlike the very fiddly and fragile transoms that you sometimes see on the English and French ships.
Very well done Ron. Wishing you and the Admiral continued improvement.View attachment 282200
Getting some of the fiddly bits in place. Grating installed, long benches and inside top rails. Have a few deck "Splinters" to install when the upper rails are fitted.
Next comes the hinges for the hatch, the upper railings, additional planking and benches at the stern.
As the Admiral's condition improves, I'm finding a little more time in the shipyard.
Ron
They say imitation is the greatest form of flattery. That being the case I copied Hans Gruenberg’s idea for the hatch hinges. The directions call for the hinges to be made with Abachi wood. Hans opted for brass which I also used
The first step was to cut several pieces of .010-inch brass sheet to a width of approximately 3mm. To do this and retain a clean cut I sandwiched the brass sheet between two pieces of 3mm plywood using double faced tape to secure the brass to the plywood. I then cut several strips with my Byrnes table saw.
The reason for the sandwich was twofold. First to make a clean cut and second to aide in drilling the .024-inch diameter holes in the brass for the nails I was using to attach the hinges to the hatch. Trying to drill the brass sheet without some means to steady the small drill bit results in the bit wanting to wander around slightly as you apply pressure. Using a punch mark prior to drilling results in a dimple in the brass on the back side which would have to be filed off. By sandwiching the brass between the wood (1) allows me to clamp the piece in my machine vise. (2) The drill bit doesn’t wander as it starts to drill into the wood first and (3) it results in a nice clean hole through the .010-inch brass sheet.
Strip drilling
Drilled strip
I then cut the piece in half giving me pieces for both hinges. I then used my jewelers round nosed pliers to roll the end of the hinge to form the circle for the hinge pin. I cut the hinge pins from brass rod, radiused the ends and used cyanoacrylate to hold the pins in place.
Strip cut into hinge pieces
I wanted to keep the brass shiny, so I sprayed a light coat of Satin Acrylic on the hinges. I then gave the hatch a couple of coats of Natural Danish Oil prior to attaching the hinges.
Then it was just a matter of drilling small pilot holes into the hatch for the nails, cut the nails off on the back side and sanded everything smooth.
The first step was to cut several pieces of .010-inch brass sheet to a width of approximately 3mm. To do this and retain a clean cut I sandwiched the brass sheet between two pieces of 3mm plywood using double faced tape to secure the brass to the plywood. I then cut several strips with my Byrnes table saw.
The reason for the sandwich was twofold. First to make a clean cut and second to aide in drilling the .024-inch diameter holes in the brass for the nails I was using to attach the hinges to the hatch. Trying to drill the brass sheet without some means to steady the small drill bit results in the bit wanting to wander around slightly as you apply pressure. Using a punch mark prior to drilling results in a dimple in the brass on the back side which would have to be filed off. By sandwiching the brass between the wood (1) allows me to clamp the piece in my machine vise. (2) The drill bit doesn’t wander as it starts to drill into the wood first and (3) it results in a nice clean hole through the .010-inch brass sheet.
Strip drilling
Drilled strip
I then cut the piece in half giving me pieces for both hinges. I then used my jewelers round nosed pliers to roll the end of the hinge to form the circle for the hinge pin. I cut the hinge pins from brass rod, radiused the ends and used cyanoacrylate to hold the pins in place.
Strip cut into hinge pieces
I wanted to keep the brass shiny, so I sprayed a light coat of Satin Acrylic on the hinges. I then gave the hatch a couple of coats of Natural Danish Oil prior to attaching the hinges.
Then it was just a matter of drilling small pilot holes into the hatch for the nails, cut the nails off on the back side and sanded everything smooth.
Attachments
Oh my! The things I just learned... Brilliant Ron!
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Very nice and precise cutting and filing of the groove for setting the cutwater nice and snug as in this last photo. That kind of precision is to be emulated! Rich
I wanted to tone down the contrast between the Walnut and the Abachi, so I gave the Abachi a coat of medium oak stain. The hatch is coated with Danish Oil, and I know the remaining walnut will have a similar hue when coated.
I like what I see so I'll also stain the foredeck with the medium oak.
Ron
I agree with Heinrich - looks just perfect.
View attachment 280542
Got the deck planked and didn't notice the difference in strip thickness beforehand
Hole cut in deck for grating. Saw another build log where he painted black on the deck under the grate. That way he didn't have to cut the hole. I cut mine slightly undersize so I can fit the grate snugly. I will say the Wonder Cutter is fantastic! However, it does require a steady hand. I used a metal strip as a guide for these old shaky hands.
Now moving on to adding the lower decking, benches etc.
Ron
Ron
Hi Ron
Nice job !!! I couldn't see the deck planking issue you mentioned.
I have a question. What was the thickness of that deck that the Wonder Cutter was able to cut.
Thanks
Daniel
This decking was 1mm thick. 2mm wouldn’t be a problem either. Haven’t had an opportunity to try on various wood types and thicknesses as yet however, I will be testing with others. I did try cutting into a 3/16 thick basswood and it cuts deep into it however you need to keep the blade moving or you will get burning of the material so I wouldn’t recommend it for thick woods.
Ron
Formed the rails prior gluing in place. Also painted the inside of the rails to give me a clean line without getting paint where I didn't want it
I'm using Kolderstok's paint for the first time and really like the way it flows out when brushing.
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Nice color on those rails, Ron! What is your red paint called?View attachment 283066
Formed the rails prior gluing in place. Also painted the inside of the rails to give me a clean line without getting paint where I didn't want it
I'm using Kolderstok's paint for the first time and really like the way it flows out when brushing.