Steam pinnace Janet

Your hull is looking good Daniel. As I have never built a double-planked ship, I cant give any advice on the filler to be used, but I am sure you can follow Moxis's advice with confidence. I can give you advice on the finish of the final layer, when you reach that point.
 
Some friends here in Romania recommended a bicomponent filler for wood repair.
www.sinto.ro

Chit bicomponent fin pentru lemn | Sinto

Chitul fin pentru lemn este un chit poliesteric bicomponent, folosit în scopul reparării, restaurării, acoperirii şi lipirii lemnului şi derivaţilor
www.sinto.ro www.sinto.ro
Have no contraction is hard and cure rapidly in 20 minutes
Also is waterproof and permit the gluing of the beauty layer over
Kind Regards,Daniel
 
Hello All,
This week was with a lot of architectural work and a deadline this day.
Sadly ,I started a little cold war after wanted to buy the rest of wood so I will have to wait a bit for warmer relations in family.
Sanded the hull with 120 and 280 grit and now it is silky smooth.
Next step will be rezin and fiberglass I hope
Daniel
 
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NMBROOK said:
Hi Daniel
I use Zap finishing resin.This is thin but goes on better if you put the two bottles in warm water before mixing to make it even more like water.It benefits from a three hour cure time,you do not want something that goes off quickly so you get time to work with it.For added durability you can include fine woven mat,this will remain invisible once covered in a few coats of Epoxy.
People assume that modern wooden pleasure boats are just covered in Yacht varnish.This is incorrect the hull is assembled using Epoxy and then the hardwood is covered in several coats of Epoxy resin before flatting back.The Yacht varnish is just the final layer.

Kind Regards

Nigel
Click to expand...
Hello Nigel ,
I wanted to ask you a question, Zap pt40 is amber colour?
I founded some videos on youtube about this resin and they say the cured resin look like amber.Will affect the colour of wood?
If you put oil on wood for enchanced colour the rezin still have good aderence?
Kind regards,Daniel
 
NMBROOK said:
Hi Daniel
I use Zap finishing resin.This is thin but goes on better if you put the two bottles in warm water before mixing to make it even more like water.It benefits from a three hour cure time,you do not want something that goes off quickly so you get time to work with it.For added durability you can include fine woven mat,this will remain invisible once covered in a few coats of Epoxy.
People assume that modern wooden pleasure boats are just covered in Yacht varnish.This is incorrect the hull is assembled using Epoxy and then the hardwood is covered in several coats of Epoxy resin before flatting back.The Yacht varnish is just the final layer.

Kind Regards

Nigel
Click to expand...

Hello Nigel, I am sorry I ask you in Daniel's thread, but we could open our own for this subject if necessary.

I am building a steam pinasse too and want to get a beautiful glossy deck for her. Deck is planked with mahagony strips and I thought to apply several coats of glossy boat varnish on it, but your method of using epoxy is interesting. I thought to use laminating epoxy for this. To get it thinner I thought to use methyl alcohol which makes epoxy like water. But how many layers of epoxy are you using? Do you sand them after curing before applying new layer? And what type of varnish are you using as the last layer?
 
Hi Daniel and Moxis
I was trying to find a build log the other week to help Daniel out.I can try to explain it but this had step by step pictures of the process on a mahogany RC model of a Chris Craft runabout.The builder was Pat Mathews and the forum is RCgroups but I could not find it.Let me see what I can find over the weekend.
Some answers to Daniel's questions;
Do not apply oil if you use Epoxy.
The finishing resin is amber due to the UV protection.The resin will bring the grain of the wood out on it's own but may darken the wood slightly.It has the same effect as a spirit based Poly Varnish.
Moxis
I am careful to use dedicated thinners.Methyl alcohol may work but it can be a lottery and if it goes wrong it tends to do it in a big way.The first coats can be thinned but the last coat should ideally be neat.Epoxy does not stick to itself when cured without a mechanical key.The secret is to apply subsequent coats after the Tack has gone but not cured.This way you only sand once after you have finished to smooth the resin and provide a key for the varnish.Any sanding between coats of Epoxy,you run the risk of fish eyes in the resin.You need to apply sufficient coats to ensure you do not sand through to the timber,how many is governed by how absorbent the timber is and how much you thin the resin.I generally apply at least one unthinned coat after the timber grain has disappeared.In Daniels case it would be after the glass cloth texture has disappeared.You do not need the cloth on a deck.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Thanks for your advice ,Nigel and Moxis
I hunted Z-poxy in Romania but have no luck and today I commanded from Amazon
Delivery is about 9 iul.
Hope to get the wood and make the beauty layer.
I have to buy a brass sheet for hinges and small decoration at superstructure
0.3 mm thick is good for had tools ? or I have to take smaller thickness?
Scale is 1/15 for my model
Kind regards,Daniel
 
Moxis said:
Hello Nigel, I am sorry I ask you in Daniel's thread, but we could open our own for this subject if necessary.

I am building a steam pinasse too and want to get a beautiful glossy deck for her. Deck is planked with mahagony strips and I thought to apply several coats of glossy boat varnish on it, but your method of using epoxy is interesting. I thought to use laminating epoxy for this. To get it thinner I thought to use methyl alcohol which makes epoxy like water. But how many layers of epoxy are you using? Do you sand them after curing before applying new layer? And what type of varnish are you using as the last layer?
Click to expand...
Hello Moxis , on a previous reply Nigel says you can thin the epoxy by keeping in warm water before stirring with the hardener,
Daniel
 
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Thanks Nigel for clear instructions! One more question: Which grid sandpaper you use for final sanding before applying varnish? I think it must be quite fine.

And Daniel: Yes, I think 0,3 mm thick brass plate is fine for hand tools. Easy to cut and not too thin for filing or sanding edges.
 
Morning All
In the time of waiting for materials I am working to draw the suprastructure . Moxis , can you tell me what dimensions have the steamplant of lempi?
I have to fit the boiler in the first suprastructure and the steam engine in between
The first superstructure has 14.8 cm with 12.8 cm height and 29.17 cm lenght between walls
the space between cabins is 7.70 cm x 17 cm wide
Daniel
 
Hello Moxis.
Thanks for the reply ,seem to me I have sufficient room for boiler and burner inside.What company produced your boiler?
Kind regards,Daniel
 
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