Steam pinnace Janet

Finnaly I got to work a bit for my model again!
Last visit at my father workshop I saw one hard aluminium piece and with my father consent I took it
Now I have the tiller arm 2.0 and much stiffer than the copper one. I filled the superior part of the rudder too.20200613_151238.jpg20200613_144313.jpg20200613_151255.jpg
Working now at metal spine who fix the rudder from hard aluminium too
Kind Regards,Daniel
 
Moxis said:
Thanks Nigel for clear instructions! One more question: Which grid sandpaper you use for final sanding before applying varnish? I think it must be quite fine.

And Daniel: Yes, I think 0,3 mm thick brass plate is fine for hand tools. Easy to cut and not too thin for filing or sanding edges.
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Hi Moxis
Sorry for the late reply I am now on my second laptop battery and that is playing up.Shops reopen next week so time for new PC me thinks;)
P240 grade followed by wet and dry used with a little water and washing up liquid if possible.I try to go as fine a grade as possible dry sanding but you can get excessive clogging on the paper if you go to fine.
I am a bit of a convert to the nylon pads for car bodyshop work.I have a big box of superfine sheets(about 250mm by 150mm)left over from when I messed with cars.these are great and you can cut them into whatever size piece you want using scissors.They are similar to scotchbrite.They are better for polishing wood than steel wool as well.You get fine metal dust from steel wool that goes rusty if not removed.No residue other than wood dust with these.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
badras-khan said:
founded this on on internet:

Mahogany in Scale: Matthews, Patrick: 9780615166957: Amazon.com: Books

Mahogany in Scale [Matthews, Patrick] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Mahogany in Scale
www.amazon.com
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This book looks good Daniel and will give you a much better insight into using resins than I could explain on here.Only way to really explain it is to physically illustrate the process and I do not have a model to glass as this present time.In the absence of Pat's log this maybe the only solution.Have you tried searching youtube?

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
G'day badras-khan, I have just had an enjoyable read through your build log, a lovely model, I built the Borkum steam launch, but I only run with an electric motor, actually there are two motors, one turns the steam engine and the other turns the propeller, I look forward to seeing the rest of your build,

Best regards John,
PS here is a link to my build,
https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...eam-engine-built-from-stuart-turner-cas.1568/
 
Hello All ,
Nigel ,I got some videos on youtube but they are limited in info about some critical aspects ,I will see if I can buy the book.
Anyway the resin will arrive in a week time.
Also I have to get the beauty wood for the second layer
When resin arrives I will get a internal impregnation with one layer of cloth and one exterior just to soak in the wood
After that a filler and sanding for best surface,
After I will put the beauty wood
For gluing purposes You can use pva over filler and epoxy or you have to use Cianoacrilat?
Kind Regards,Daniel
 
Hello Neptune,
Great build ! will be an inspiration for some details I just become aware.
Still lot of things I dont know but this is the joy of building no?
I think I got a propeller problem, In this waterline I have some mm out of the water.
I could rise the bow up with some stern weights .
What do you think?
Or just get a little propeler?
Kind regards,Daniel
 
badras-khan said:
Hello Neptune,
Great build ! will be an inspiration for some details I just become aware.
Still lot of things I dont know but this is the joy of building no?
I think I got a propeller problem, In this waterline I have some mm out of the water.
I could rise the bow up with some stern weights .
What do you think?
Or just get a little propeler?
Kind regards,Daniel
Click to expand...

I put mine in the bath to work out the ballast, you seem to have enough depth at the transom, I would put it in the bath and see what it looks like with a bit of weight, hope this helps you,
Best Buy John,
 
Hello John ,
I was tempted to put in water but have to wait for Z-poxy to reach me
Also have to cut the supports of bulkheads , but now is helping me with sanding ,the wood base is longer than model so I can put on this near a wall with no damage to model
Kind regards,Daniel
 
Hello All ,
I have a question.
For my build I want to put a strip of walnut 3x6x100 mm as visible keel
In front is ok as seen in photo but on the bottom of the ship the keel is 6 mm with 2 mm obechi strips on each side
Now is a little thick for my taste but sanding is always an option.
The beauty layer is 1 mm thick .
Any advice?20200617_163931.jpg20200617_164138.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hello Daniel, if I understand you right, you have now 2 mm abachi on both sides of the keel. It means that the full width of the keel is 10 mm(2+6+2 mm). It might be possible then to glue 2 pcs 3x6 walnut strips on top of the keel and sand the edges round as in the attached drawing:

20200617_174059.jpg
 
Hello Moxis
Thanks for your swift Idea.
I want to ask you the keel at 10 m is not a little thick for a 1 meter long model?
And in front is 6 mm +1+1 =8mm
Wanted to go with beauty layer from the keel forward.
Kind Regards ,Daniel
 
badras-khan said:
Hello Moxis
Thanks for your swift Idea.
I want to ask you the keel at 10 m is not a little thick for a 1 meter long model?
And in front is 6 mm +1+1 =8mm
Wanted to go with beauty layer from the keel forward.
Kind Regards ,Daniel
Click to expand...

10 mm thick keel might be a little on the thick side but not too thick according to my opinion. I think you could very well keep that as is.
 
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