Steam pinnace Janet

Hello Daniel, your planking looks good. For the second planking pearwood is just fine, Other options are mahagony, cherry, or almost any wood which looks good as is, if you dont want to paint it.

The benefit of painting is that you can use wood filler to fill all holes and grooves, and you can use nails to keep the planks on place during glue curing. Later on you can fill the nail holes with filler and sand everything smooth before painting.

It is hard to say where to get the strips in Romania. I am normally making my own strips with a table saw. I buy a lump of wood I want to use from a wood company and saw my own strips from that. In this way I can make the strips in whatever measurements I want. You could consider this option too.
 
Hello Moxis!
Thanks for your swift reply!
I intended to ask Bibigon but wanted to know if is possible to get the strips in that dimensions ( too thin ,brittle etc.) Maybe will have to combine 2 strips of 525 mm lenght.
Mahogany I have in 2 mm thick strips and is intended for superstructure.
I wanted to laquer the hull in glossy finish to put the wood on display.The first layer was intended to be sturdy with a pretty second layer.
I envy you a bit about the possibility to saw your wood ,I live in an apartment flat and the space is very limited for tools/models
Sincerely yours ,Daniel
 
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Hi Daniel
Unfortunately unless you have strips custom cut,1 metre is the longest I have been able to buy.Pearwood is good but your outer protection must be perfect,I am thinking Epoxy finishing resin prior to using a Yacht varnish.Pearwood is highly absorbent and swells massively when wet.If moisture penetrates into this wood and then subsequently dries out,I think you will have issues with cracking of this timber.Applying thinned Epoxy finishing resin will penetrate into the wood forming a solid impermeable surface.
Mahogany is a little more tolerant of moisture but will still need well protecting if you want a model to stand the test of time.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Hello Nigel,
Thanks for the info ,you have to take a lot of things in mind when you make the decision.
What type of finishing rezin you use ?
I am new to this domain and any info is gold.
Thanks again
Daniel
 
Hi Daniel
I use Zap finishing resin.This is thin but goes on better if you put the two bottles in warm water before mixing to make it even more like water.It benefits from a three hour cure time,you do not want something that goes off quickly so you get time to work with it.For added durability you can include fine woven mat,this will remain invisible once covered in a few coats of Epoxy.
People assume that modern wooden pleasure boats are just covered in Yacht varnish.This is incorrect the hull is assembled using Epoxy and then the hardwood is covered in several coats of Epoxy resin before flatting back.The Yacht varnish is just the final layer.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
badras-khan said:
Hello Moxis!
Thanks for your swift reply!
I intended to ask Bibigon but wanted to know if is possible to get the strips in that dimensions ( too thin ,brittle etc.) Maybe will have to combine 2 strips of 525 mm lenght.
Mahogany I have in 2 mm thick strips and is intended for superstructure.
I wanted to laquer the hull in glossy finish to put the wood on display.The first layer was intended to be sturdy with a pretty second layer.
I envy you a bit about the possibility to saw your wood ,I live in an apartment flat and the space is very limited for tools/models
Sincerely yours ,Daniel
Click to expand...

Hello Daniel, conserning the strips you might be able to go to some local carpenters shop and ask him to cut the strips you want of the wood you like. Carpenters have usually very good machines like accurate band- and table saws and they can cut the wood into strips of the dimensions you like.
 
Hello Moxis,
I know a carpenter or two in my town but cannot say if they can cut my strips ,have to go and ask for samples.
And a modeller know best how the strips have to perform ,a carpenter knows only his trade and have very little care to proper direction of fibers and how ot cut wood radial to prevent bending
Usually the young want only money fast ( at least in my part of world)
Thanks for tip, I will see what I can get
Kind regards,
Daniel
 
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Today I got no luck with carpenters, the workshop are on low run.
One make doors and one stairs and no much else.
They use linden wood , northern pine and oak
With my ship I put 4 strips on each side tonight
8 strips on each side missing to full first layer.
Photos tommorow morning
Good night all
Daniel
 
Hello ,I have a question
For waterproofing the inside of the ship I can use watered pva glue ,or epoxy
Now I have pva marks on the inside from planking and for epoxy is necesary to remove that
For pva is not so necessary.
What is your advice?
Kind regards,Daniel
 
Hello Nigel!
Thanks for your advice.
Next week will go buy the rezin and fibercloth
After finishing the first layer of planking I will put filler and sand it to smooth surface ,as preparation for beauty layer
How is the cherry wood for second layer?
Daniel
 
Hello All
After a discution with Sergey at Bibigon I decided to use black hornbeam for hull from waterline up ,and pink pear for suprastructure and parts of deck
The underwater will be obechi painted red .
I designed the deck based on the photos and will be like that.
What is your opinion on this choice of wood.
The finish will be epoxy first then varnish for a yacht gloss effect
Sincerely yours,
Daniel


janet deck.jpg
 
Daniel that combination will look great.I would go bright red below the waterline,not red ochre and possibly add a very narrow white boot topping between the red and hornbeam.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Thank you Nigel,
Now I am calculating the number of strips for each type of wood-including the superstructures.
I am thinking about the deck in 1 mm aviation plywood and up 1 mm of exotic wood and the superstructures in 2 mm plywood and 1 mm exotic wood.
I heard about the hornwood being very hard .Is bendy enough or have to go to narower strips?
For deck the colored sprips considered are in 1mm x 5 mm x 500 mm pear ,the white are pear in same dimensions or obechi.
Kind regards,Daniel
 
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Hi Daniel
I can't comment on Hornbeam as I have never used it.One thing I would ask you to rethink,is the Obechi deck planking.It is a soft timber great for first planking but may not give you the best result.In addition,because of the soft fibrous nature of Obechi,when you sand the deck,the Pear dust will embed in the Obechi.If you are after a light colour something like Maple would give better results.You could also speak to Bibigon,he could supply you with Pink Pear for the sides and an almost white Pear for the planking infill.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
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