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Steam pinnace Janet

Hello All
After a week of clogged nose I starter again the work at my model
Last week I was fighting with 3 mm brass sheet for some details and only with filing was going very slow
This week I got a little smarter and bought a jeweler saw a bench pin and some jeweler metal saws .
Started a new bench pin with larger size and first piece is good to polish
Work great .
Daniel
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Hello All,
I did a little wet sanding on my model and today I inspected the result
found some pinholes and places where the paint just jumped ship
So I have to give the filler a second chance and repaint :p
I did the second piece for the aft of the boat
I need an advice , after spray paint need to give a auto clear varnish or is good only with paint?
Kind regards, Daniel
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Daniel, I have never used a clear varnish or any other top coating over the final paint job on any of my RC ships. This includes water based or oil based paints. Unless you plan to sail her in acid or paint remover ponds you final paint job with a good quality paint will be just fine. With your fibreglassed hull and well sealed on the inside you will have no problem.

Jim
 
Hello Fourseas ,
My predicament is with the red paint ,after some sanding is a little unstable and is letting red marks when touching cloth or wood.
usually spray can paint stay there after curing .
Will see how it"'s going after the second spray
Daniel
 
Hi Daniel, I hope this is not an indication that the fibre glass resin that you used had not completely cured before applying your paint. If that is the case your paint would remain a little sticky, and applying another coat of paint over it may not cure the problem. In the past I have always washed my fiber glass resin down with alcohol in between sanding and never applied paint to a sticky surface.

Jim
 
Hello Jim ,
I usually wait 48 hours for the resin cure.
My problem is with spray paint ( red)
after sanding I use dishwasher liquid soap for cleaning and lot of water . But the red particles from sanding stain all in range.
I covered the pinholes with filler and got the brass windows for the aft cabin wall
Daniel
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Hello All
Second painting is so and so
Despite my careful masking the black was very penetrating and is over the white band
Will see in 24 hours when I will evaluate the damage and give some white paint where is needed
After will put a clear varnish to fix the colours in place
Daniel
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Hello All ,
Seem to me I have to start the painting of the hull again.
After a lot of acrilic retouches I got a good image of the hull and to preserve the acrilic paint I did spray an auto varnish.
Very bad choice from me so this is the result
Daniel
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Sorry to see this disaster with the paint - sh....
 
Hi Daniel, Sorry to see the way your paint turned out. You do have a big messy job ahead of you but please don't give up. This type of problem has happened to me in the past when I got in a hurry or didn't follow the paint directions exactly. My advice now would be to find an appropriate paint stripper that is safe to use on antique furniture and carefully scape all the old paint from the hull. Next, wash/wipe down the hull with whatever the paint stripper product recommends to clean and neutralize their product. Be sure you don't miss any areas in tight spots. When the hull is perfectly clean and dry sand any imperfections out again, clean it and then use a primer suitable for painting fibreglass or plastic. Next you will be ready for final paint again. I have always used standard type rattle cans suitable for plastics or fibreglass and compatible with your primer that you used. Follow all paint directions carefully, and don't rush the job. I don't recommend putting any other coat of varnish or whatever over top of your final paint job. IT JUST IS NOT NECESSARY. I have been building and sailing RC ships for many years and never had a problem with good paint coming off in the water. Hope this helps.
Jim
 
Hello All
I searched the net for a paint remover but the ones locally found are not for plastic or fiberglass coated materials.
So I will have to use the old sanding pad
Will see how it's going
If you know a better paint remover I am open to suggestions
Daniel
 
Hello All
I did the first and second layer of primer and surprise , in the places of red spots remaining on the model the primer does not stuck
You have similar experiences?
Have to strip again or put some filler and a layer or 2 of primer after?
I need some advice
Daniel
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Brand names notwithstanding, paint boils down to chemistry. It appears that different paints that you are using may not be compatible. Paints are categorized by the chemical reaction that causes them to cure. Common ones are:
Enamel : Alkyd resin
Lacquer: Nitrocellulose evaporation
Acrylic
Urethane
Epoxy

So, I would suggest that you first determine what you are trying to coat. If you have fiberglassed the hull, then what type of resin did you use Epoxy or Polyester? Then choose paints that are compatible. Since your primer appears to be bonding to the hull in general, what is the chemistry of the red paint and is it compatible with the primer.

It also appears that your primer is either too thick or you are applying a coat that is too heavy. The first coat of primer is usually considered to be sacrificial so get busy with the sandpaper and sand it down. Then build up LIGHT. Coats. You are also going to need to remove the red paint lurking in crevices. Once you are satisfied with a smooth tight coat of primer, choose colored paints that are compatible with the chemistry of the primer.

There should be no need to apply a clear coat to “seal” the finished coats of paint, and remember, doing so introduces another incompatible chemistry to your paint job.

Roger
 
Thank you for the swift reply
The hull was epoxyed with 7 zap
the primer is 1k acrilic spray filler and the paints are auto spray paints
I let the hull to dry till tomorrow and I will sand a bit and get the red zones
After will see ,
Daniel
 
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