I loved that you reproduced as many metal parts as you could to wood. Great Job!
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Sultana - Colonial Schooner, 1767 - by MS, Scale 1:64 [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter moreplovac
- Start date
- Watchers 24
I noted this technique on other forums when i was researching how to do treenails. Also will like to try pegs at some point.. The only one point when it comes to putty is to make sure that wood and putty creates a nice but not to too visible color differences. I tried on sample wood, with three different putty colors the whole process (including varnish) before i started on the model.
Cheers
Thanks Dave. The original parts included in the kit are very close to be unacceptable.
Cheers
It did turn out nicely
Ratlines, ratlines and more ratlines.. Time consuming but awarding task. The first clove hitch was tight as soon as it was completed and a small amount of glue (diluted white glue this time) was applied to it. The rest of the cloves was not secured with glue right away; instead they were secured at the end which was living a bit space to tight them up and to adjust a height as needed.
Happy modeling..
Happy modeling..
Work on ratlines continues...
For a change from a ratlines, i cleaned up the anchors with sandpapers and files and start preparing a wooden anchor stocks from scratch. The kit supplied anchor stocks will not be used... Below is cleaned and not cleaned anchor..
Happy modeling.
For a change from a ratlines, i cleaned up the anchors with sandpapers and files and start preparing a wooden anchor stocks from scratch. The kit supplied anchor stocks will not be used... Below is cleaned and not cleaned anchor..
Happy modeling.
It´s a very nice work. Wow.
Thanks Oliver, appreciated..
Thanks Wolfgang,
I actually started by copying a part of ship plan with ratlines, cut just that part and glue it to the piece of cardboard and then positioning it just behind the lines. Unfortunately it was to close and taking away much needed work space so the other solution was to turn over the cardboard, secure it with two Starbucks sticks so it is not wobbling and use its while space as a contrast to black ratlines. This way all background color distractions were eliminated.
Other piece of scrap wood was used for space marking (template); the only challenge is as you climb up with ratlines, the template will point straight up and ratlines starts to move close to the mast so you i had to do a bit of aiming to get it right or find some other way to lean template to the mast at the same angle as ratlines..
Cheers
Very, very nice job on the dead eyes - the jig really comes in handy and makes things very neat - !!!
Thanks Donnie.
The challenge is that these deadeyes do not have eyes properly positioned so i have to go thru bunch of them and pick the best looking one.
I also had to modify some deadeyes by drilling the new hole and filling up the old eyes with putty.
Cheers
For a change, started to work on anchors; a layer of flat black was applied. The anchors stocks is next..
The continue with ratlines. It is slow but very rewarding work...
It appears that i squeezed the 5 or 6th line a bit more than necessary so i have to fix it..
Happy modeling..
The continue with ratlines. It is slow but very rewarding work...
It appears that i squeezed the 5 or 6th line a bit more than necessary so i have to fix it..
Happy modeling..
Climbing the ratlines....
This is the way how i made a clove hitch...
The second set of ratlines completed...
and the sailor' view..
To break a bit from a rigging i continue work on anchors.. I discarded anchor stocks that were provided in the kit and made one from the piece of bass strip. The dimensions were taken from the plan and transferred to the strip wit h a help of scotch tape....
Two stocks were made and with file and knife carved to the correct shape. I made the stock from one piece; practicum uses two stocks and glue them together. I use one piece of wood per anchor. After carving and sanding i drill a hole in the center (1.5mm) and shape it further with a file.
The final shaping was done when anchors were glued to the stocks.
Next will be adding a electric tape strips to simulate iron band, a layer of golden oak stain and layer of varnish, ring for an anchor, anchor buoy ....
Happy modeling..
This is the way how i made a clove hitch...
The second set of ratlines completed...
and the sailor' view..
To break a bit from a rigging i continue work on anchors.. I discarded anchor stocks that were provided in the kit and made one from the piece of bass strip. The dimensions were taken from the plan and transferred to the strip wit h a help of scotch tape....
Two stocks were made and with file and knife carved to the correct shape. I made the stock from one piece; practicum uses two stocks and glue them together. I use one piece of wood per anchor. After carving and sanding i drill a hole in the center (1.5mm) and shape it further with a file.
The final shaping was done when anchors were glued to the stocks.
Next will be adding a electric tape strips to simulate iron band, a layer of golden oak stain and layer of varnish, ring for an anchor, anchor buoy ....
Happy modeling..
The iron bands were simulated with black electrical tape.
The tape was also secured with touch of glue around the place were it will be wrapped up..
The both anchors were dipped (stock down) to the golden oak stain, left with a stain for few seconds and extra stain was wiped out with bounty..
The ring for each anchor was made from 0.3mm black wire.
The ring diameter is app 3.2mm. The rings were cut, ends were filled to provide good seating between two ends of a ring. Then a small amount of glue was applied to the ends and positioned in the way that cut ends were in the anchor, not visible from outside.
The anchors will be mounted on the ship with anchor buoys.
As from practicum: "Ships similar to the Sultana would certainly have had them. There were strict laws and codes that mandated the use of anchor buoys while in a harbor or port. They weren’t used for the Sultana’s benefit. They were used so the other ships wouldn’t get damaged by the anchor and cable. Stiff penalties were brought against a ship’s crew when they failed to use a buoy".
The kit doesn’t come with buoys so i decided to follow practicum and make them from sculpey. It was a bit hard to find out correct size but i looked at the buoys from practicum and trying to get a feeling for a size.
The sculpey was cut in approximate same size loafs and shaped.
The quick bake (130 degrees C for 15min) and they are ready for a next stage..
I made few extras and will pick the best looking pair..
Happy modeling.
The tape was also secured with touch of glue around the place were it will be wrapped up..
The both anchors were dipped (stock down) to the golden oak stain, left with a stain for few seconds and extra stain was wiped out with bounty..
The ring for each anchor was made from 0.3mm black wire.
The ring diameter is app 3.2mm. The rings were cut, ends were filled to provide good seating between two ends of a ring. Then a small amount of glue was applied to the ends and positioned in the way that cut ends were in the anchor, not visible from outside.
The anchors will be mounted on the ship with anchor buoys.
As from practicum: "Ships similar to the Sultana would certainly have had them. There were strict laws and codes that mandated the use of anchor buoys while in a harbor or port. They weren’t used for the Sultana’s benefit. They were used so the other ships wouldn’t get damaged by the anchor and cable. Stiff penalties were brought against a ship’s crew when they failed to use a buoy".
The kit doesn’t come with buoys so i decided to follow practicum and make them from sculpey. It was a bit hard to find out correct size but i looked at the buoys from practicum and trying to get a feeling for a size.
The sculpey was cut in approximate same size loafs and shaped.
The quick bake (130 degrees C for 15min) and they are ready for a next stage..
I made few extras and will pick the best looking pair..
Happy modeling.
Thanks, appreciated.
The work on buoys continue... The buoys were not included in the kit so i am following practicum when it comes to roping the buoys...
First, i made 4 eye bolts from 0.3 mm wire, by twisting them around a small nail..
Two buoys were chosen from the pile of six. The small hole was drilled on both ends of each buoy and eye bolts were inserted. The small amount of glue was put in the hole before inserting the eye bolts. The eye bolts were not inserted to the end, app 2mm space reminded between buoys and eye bolts.
The eye bolts were inserted... this pictures shows eye bolts fully inserted just to test the fittings..
The harness for each buoys were made, two per each buoy. Three lines were knotted along the main, rigging line. It took a little time to space the lines properly. I used small template that helped a bit.
Four sets of harness were made and set aside.
The buoys were painted in flat white, not paying to much attention that color covers whole buoy. Did not want to have brand-new buoy effect...
The harness was wrapped around the buoy and fixed with a small amount of glue. The three knotted strands are seized at the eye bolt; here those 2mm are coming into play..
The second harness was also mounted making sure that space between strands is as close as equal possible. This time the strands are going above the first set of harness and seized in the same manner as the first one. The strands were hooked thru the eye bolt just to keep them from hanging around the buoy until harness is possitioned.
Both completed..
Another rigging line was seized on one side of the buoy. This line will be tied to the anchor. With assistance from helping hands, the work was easy to complete.
This is the way how it will be tied to the anchor.
Happy modeling.
First, i made 4 eye bolts from 0.3 mm wire, by twisting them around a small nail..
Two buoys were chosen from the pile of six. The small hole was drilled on both ends of each buoy and eye bolts were inserted. The small amount of glue was put in the hole before inserting the eye bolts. The eye bolts were not inserted to the end, app 2mm space reminded between buoys and eye bolts.
The eye bolts were inserted... this pictures shows eye bolts fully inserted just to test the fittings..
The harness for each buoys were made, two per each buoy. Three lines were knotted along the main, rigging line. It took a little time to space the lines properly. I used small template that helped a bit.
Four sets of harness were made and set aside.
The buoys were painted in flat white, not paying to much attention that color covers whole buoy. Did not want to have brand-new buoy effect...
The harness was wrapped around the buoy and fixed with a small amount of glue. The three knotted strands are seized at the eye bolt; here those 2mm are coming into play..
The second harness was also mounted making sure that space between strands is as close as equal possible. This time the strands are going above the first set of harness and seized in the same manner as the first one. The strands were hooked thru the eye bolt just to keep them from hanging around the buoy until harness is possitioned.
Both completed..
Another rigging line was seized on one side of the buoy. This line will be tied to the anchor. With assistance from helping hands, the work was easy to complete.
This is the way how it will be tied to the anchor.
Happy modeling.
Thanks Norway; for some of used techniques/materials i found inspiration in Sultana Practicum; some others are my own invention
