I do find I'm better on the bandsaw than scroll saw, find the scroll saw difficult to use, can't seem to get the hang it ...Got it… don’t like a scroll saw for curve cuts like futtocks etc?
I do find I'm better on the bandsaw than scroll saw, find the scroll saw difficult to use, can't seem to get the hang it ...Got it… don’t like a scroll saw for curve cuts like futtocks etc?
I have a Laguna 14 / 12 and am very happy with it. Can saw up to 300 mm diameter. Even very tin slices are possibe.I am looking into getting a 14” bandsaw, which one did you get and how do you like it for re-sawing? I currently use a Ryobi 10” and it works ok but the re saw capacity is only 4”. I use a Dewalt dw788 scroll saw for frame futtocks, works very well, have you considered a scroll saw for the work bench?
Replace with urethane tires. They'll last a long time.
14" Delta has a lot of upgrades available....Oh yes your right, it's an old delta 14 inch I tried to get it up and running, I bought a new blade for it , checked it out best I could, & then the tires decinagrated, then we got a cold spell to cold in garage for me ,decided I want something for my indoor shop , delta could still work with new tires
I am following the instructions in the book , it tells me to do it this way, glue all together to complete full hull and fair (sand) the inside and outside, there may be other ways of doing this , but this is my first navy board model , I will probably find other ways to do this along the way, thanksYou are making a lot of saw-dust ....
I am looking forward to see the first frames
Would it be not better to glue the elements of one frame together and sand afterwards the complete frame with your spindle-sander?
Or do you make a pre-sanding with still some meat, glueing together and afterwards once more a final sanding?
This information in the book sounds logic and is the same like I mentioned before.I am following the instructions in the book , it tells me to do it this way, glue all together to complete full hull and fair (sand) the inside and outside, there may be other ways of doing this , but this is my first navy board model , I will probably find other ways to do this along the way, thanks
This information in the book sounds logic and is the same like I mentioned before.
I was only asking, because you showed in the photo with the sander separate elements and not a complete frame
You are on a good way .....
I think you can do this in multiple ways, here are some pictures out of the book of the hull & frames, I may do like you said complete one frame at a time, I will have to experiment, thank you for your suggestion I am open to any ideas or thoughts....This information in the book sounds logic and is the same like I mentioned before.
I was only asking, because you showed in the photo with the sander separate elements and not a complete frame
You are on a good way .....
It is called ( building a navy board model the Sussex 1693 ) by Gilbert Mcardle ,you can find the planset review on this site , there should be a link to it on my build logs.It looks like a very beautiful and challenging model, lots of success and enjoyment of the construction process, I will continue to follow you with great curiosity. I would love to get more details on the instruction book and construction instructions of this model
It is called ( building a navy board model the Sussex 1693 ) by Gilbert Mcardle ,you can find the planset review on this site , there should be a link to it on my build logs.
It looks like a very beautiful and challenging model, lots of success and enjoyment of the construction process, I will continue to follow you with great curiosity. I would love to get more details on the instruction book and construction instructions of this model
Thank you for putting the link up for me, I couldn't figure out how to do it, appreciate itPlanset review - Building a Navy Board Model of HMS SUSSEX 1693" by Gilbert McArdle
Planset Review: Building a Navy Board Model of HMS Sussex 1693 by Gilbert McArdle Hardcover: 170 pages Publisher: Sea Watch Books LLC (2010) Language: English The book is 9”x12” (22.9cm x 30.5cm) and has 186 pages of text, drawings and photos in b/w and color. Seventeen sheets of...shipsofscale.com
Hello I'm glad you asked me this , I have transferred the cross lines where each futtock begins and ends and check the angle before I peel off the paper also they are cut out 1/8 over sized inboard and out , I hope I am on the right track, thanksHi Bird
Does Gilbert McArdle provide framing elevations? I have this monograph but without opening all the drawings out, I can't remember.I ask because I wondered if you had a template when gluing the futtocks together rather than just relying on lining up the outside cut faces?
Kind Regards
Nigel
Thank you for that suggestion I will be checking them this morning, thanks for your help I appreciate it, that is a great idea, thanks again for your timeBird when you glued the futtocks together did you check against the profile to make sure things aren't running off? I know this is awkward with all the "green " around the outside, but Looking how McArdle has drawn the futtocks, they have a "kick" in each joint.I just don't want you to have a frame too wide or too narrow across the tops beyond your sanding allowance. I understand your lines give you the correct overlap, it is the overall profile I am thinking of.
Kind Regards
Nigel
I took your advice and I tape the complete frame pattern together and checked the profile, so far so good, I may even use the pattern as a type of jig , I will be double and triple checking things along the way, thank youThank you for that suggestion I will be checking them this morning, thanks for your help I appreciate it, that is a great idea, thanks again for your time