The Black Pearl

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Belfry work
Make the red arrow part, Belfry. Some books have the name Belfry.
Which is right...?



For the time being, I made a drawing.
I don't really know how the bell was installed, so I guess the bell is just right.
I'm not even sure about the bell-free feet. I also imagine this foot part.
When I made the 1/60 BP issue, I created it by my imagination without knowing that Belfry would look like this.
This time as well, there is some "imagination and creation", but I think it has improved a little.



I made a jig for the bell-free roof part.
Soak a 0.6mm-thick aviation veneer and 2 pieces of 1mm-thick cypress in water to absorb plenty of water.



This state. When the sandwich plate dries, it looks like this.



It's a close-up image.



It's dry, so I'll stick it with a tight bond and put it on the jig again.



It is a close-up image. Although the tight bond is protruding, it will be hardened as it is.
We will remove it later during shaping.
If you can't make a roof, you can't go next.
It is an idle play until it completely solidifies.



The material for the roof is complete. When making such parts, jigs come in handy.



The material of the roof part is divided into parts.



It's done by bonding the parts together... but it's a bit distorted. I'm a little worried...
After this, the parts of the foot were cut out, and the bell was cut out from the cypress and assembled.



Ummmmmm...
The roof and bell are rebuilt.
This is no good...



It is a remake of the bell.
I managed to get them...



Apply Tamiya putty to the wood grain, dry it, then apply plastic color gold and wait for it to dry.



I fixed the roof. I can't tell what's gone by looking at this alone...
Do people who understand understand?
Well, let's compare it with the last time.



Since A is the last time, B is the fixed roof.
The distortion was corrected. The horizontal edge of the roof has also been fixed.
It is painted and united with the bell.



done. I will shoot with a 10 yen coin for comparison.
Above the bar with the bell is the handle. Use this to rock the bell and ring the bell.
I don't know if this handle was on the movie.
When I saw a sailing ship's book, there was something like this, so I added it.



I installed Pinnacle, Rat and Belfry on the deck.
It's almost like this.



I took off the temporary mast and took a picture.



It is a close-up image.
Is this the end of the outfitting parts work on the deck?
The rope handrail can be attached only after the mast is assembled. If you attach it first,
it will break when the mast is assembled.
The next part to make... ladder and channel... Is it a work on the side of the hull? Well, I made it
carefully without being rushed.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 17



Now, I thought I had all the outfittings on the deck, but I forgot to put the ammunition in the ammo bay.
Is there anything that can be a shell? I hang out on the net...it's hard to find. There were
bearing balls, but the price is high because of shipping costs and cash on delivery...
When I was wandering around a home improvement center... I found a ball chain at the accessory store.
The price is 131 yen including 2 pieces.
I'm going to use this as a shell...
It's about 1.3-1.5mm in diameter, and it's quite overscaled, but I decided not to worry. (Lol)



There were two, but one seems to be in time.
I immediately released one. Cut it with a nipper and cut it into pieces...



I dyed the scattered balls with gun black.
It looks like a shell!



I saw it in the shell yard. It was a nice touch, so I just glued it.
It's a little big, but it looks good.
In terms of caliber, it's more than double the size. (Lol)
OK if it looks like that!



I cut out the channel board and tried to assemble it using brass wire.
The yellow oval part.



By the way, it is the production of the ring for the dead eye.
It was made into a ring using a 0.5 mm brass wire, and the joint was brazed with powdered silver solder.
I dye it with Gun Black.



It's a dead eye, but I made it with a Ramin stick with a diameter of about 5 mm that I bought from a home center.
That's these three...
I can make it, but it takes a little too long to make 80 of them.
I should make about 10 pieces, make a mold with silicon, and duplicate it with resin...
Still, it's hard to make the same 7 more...
I have to make a dead eye with a diameter of about 3mm...
So, I decided to buy the Dead Eye sold as a part of the wooden sailing boat model, and when
I looked it up on the net... I'm handling it, but it's sold out everywhere... And it's quite a good price.
When I searched on the net for a while, Mr. Woody Joe sold plastic dead eyes with sailing parts!
I also sold brass nails.
What a reasonable price!



I ordered it and received it.
The dead eye will be painted black, so any material can be used.
I have to use such a nice thing!
The third small pulley is about 5 mm, and the special small third pulley is about 4 mm.



I took it out of the bag.
Isn't it nice?
One bag costs 500 yen and contains 120 dead eyes.
Considering the effort to mold with silicon and duplicate with resin, it would be cheaper to buy this dead eye!



A brass nail with a diameter of 0.5 mm that we ordered together.
It is used to fix the dead eye chain to the hull.



Preparation for painting Dead Eye.
Double-sided tape is put on the cigarette package and the dead eyes are lined up.
After finishing the arrangement, paint matte black with an air brush.
A small dead eye with a diameter of about 5 mm , 80 on both sides.



Painted in matte black.
When it is dry, turn it over and paint the back.



Once the dead eyes are dry, place them in the brazing ring you made earlier and tighten the ring.
This is a dead eye attached to the channel board, so I will use 40 on both sides.
The remaining dead eyes attach to the shrouds that support each mast.



It is a chain production.
This is the bottom part of the chain. This also requires 40 on both sides.



The length from the channel to the side of the hull is measured, and the chain is made of 0.5mm brass wire.
The dead eye chain is attached with powdered silver brazing.
Also, I will make 38...
It's a series of patience.
Your eyes get tired.
Now, let's look at the cast and mass-produce the dead eye chain. It's not something you can do at once and it takes time.
But it's fun!
That's right!

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 18




Mass production of dead eyes with chains.
Althoughit overlaps with the previous one, I will keep the data of the work process.
This "powdered silver wax" is necessary to make a dead eye chain with brass wire.
I will use this to braze the brass wire. Powder silver and flux are mixed and used.
Actually, this is a very expensive item.
So I didn't want to use it much.
In 1/60 BP and FD, I used solder.
But the solder is weak. I'll get it right away.
So this time, I decided to use it.
It was my first experience with brazing.



I used this gas torch lighter, which I bought at a home improvement center when I was smoking
a long time ago, as a burner.



Hold the brass wire loop you want to braze with a clip...



Since the dead eye is plastic, wrap the dead eye with a tissue containing plenty of water so that it will
not melt by the fire of the gas torch lighter. (Black arrow part)
The red arrow part is brazed.



Put a mixture of powdered silver and flux on the red arrow and burn it with a gas torch lighter.
When the silver melts and shines silver, brazing is complete .
This is repeated 38 times.
I tried to take a picture
of the gas torch lighter, but I could n't do it alone... I was looking at the gas torch lighter in the left hand and the camera in the right hand while looking at the camera monitor.
Tohoho...



After brazing, gun wire is used to dye brass wire black.
Gun black is diluted with water. It takes a long time to dye because the density is low, but
take it out when it becomes black appropriately. It will be beautifully dyed.
If you use gun black that doesn't dilute, the black stain will peel off like a scab.



The brass nails are also dyed black.



With that, I finally made 40 dead eyes with chains.
I used wet tissue, but I've melted about two dead eyes!
But there are a lot of spares so it's ok! I replaced it immediately.



I attached it to the channel board.
It's a temporary group. Is it like this?
I haven't attached the plate that holds the dead eye yet.
The hardest part was the bottom of the chain and the two nails on the side of the hull.
It's small. I have to bend it like a crank...



I took a picture from the bow side. I picked it up with pliers, so the black dyed spots
have some color peeling off.
If you put all dead eyes on it, you have to repaint it with black plastic color.
No, it seems better to leave it as it is and apply rusty paint.
Even so, the
chain is twisted...
It's a tough work...



It is a channel support board. It looks like shoes, right?
Same as, no matter where you cut it, it is made with the Kintaro candy strategy.



Remove the temporarily assembled dead eye and glue the channel support plate. Was it a little thick?
Well, good This is it.
If you cut it out thinly, it will crack.
It's a little deformed, but this thickness is just right for cutting out



I checked what happened to the real chain... I enlarged a part of the image I picked up on the net.
It's actually like this



Then I installed it.
Channel plate of star mast, fore mast.
The length of the chain is not uniform, and the sizes of the parts that are nailed to the hull are different...
Somehow, it looks bad! !
But, well... if you don't mind, it's ok!
Ah... I'm crazy...



Next, the starboard side main mast channel plate.



Continuing on, the starboard side Mizun Mast channel plate.
The two dead eyes on the right are for the main mast shroud.



It is a port plate of the port mast fore mast.



Next is the channel plate of the main mast on the port side.




It is a channel plate of the port side mizon mast.
The two left dead eyes are for the main mast shroud.
I made the chain so hard that it didn't match the length.
It's hard to make your own parts of the same size. I really thought it was bad.
Tohoho...
It's frustrating for me that I can't make parts like this.
Oh
It was fun to mass-produce dead eye chains because I could do silver brazing well.
Reflection... In the case of making parts like this, it is necessary to plan carefully and to do it carefully.




By the way, I photographed from the port side, the starboard side, and from the top, in the sense that I was able to do so far.
I'm shooting with a compact camera, so I don't really understand the details.
I managed to make a channel board with dead eyes.
Dead eye chains are difficult! ! I thought about the mass production and assembly of the chain.
My arm is still alive. I'm sure this feeling will last forever. I'm an amateur forever..

 

[mellpapa]

Dear David, Thank you very much.
Thank you for your hard work on the translation all at once, up to No. 18.
Is the person who saw it full of stomachs and chests?　

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 19




It is a hinge of gun port lid. I reduced the drawing of 1/60 to 1/72 and glued it to a 0.1 mm
thick copper plate using paper cement.



Since it is small, it takes time to cut it out. I cut it with scissors, but it's a bad cut.
After cutting, round the top and pass it through a 0.5mm brass wire. I try not to lose it, but there
are times when I don't...



I also use a design knife.



I can't quite proceed.
It's fine and hard to cut, so your eyes get tired.



After cutting out, I managed to get the number in about a week.
I couldn't go on, I could cut out only two pieces a day... I felt like I could
cut out 10 pieces a day, well, that's right.
I cut about 7 pieces. It's a spare because I'll lose it.



After cutting out, it is black with Gun Black.
As I wrote before, Gun Black is diluted with water before use.



It is a close-up photograph of the state that it is dyed black.
There are a lot of bubbles.
Is the chemical reaction going on?



Next, I added a name with a pulley to make it easier to open the gunport lid.
How is the Gunport lid support stay? ?
This was also cut out with scissors.



After cutting out, remove the pattern and fix the warp with pliers. Can you see that
there are 2 muscles in it?
After injuring with a design knife.



Bend along the marked line, sandwich a 0.9mm brass wire, and braze it with the red arrow.



Next, pass a 0.5mm brass wire through the red arrow and braze it. Does it look like the core of a pulley?



There are 5 more! Let's do our best!



I made 21 pieces. It is one spare.



When I was researching the Queen's Unrevenge... I was
making the Queen's Unrevenge using the BP for filming my fourth movie, but I found one in
the picture at that time.
It is the white arrow part. Apparently, something like a support stay under the channel board...
I was interested, and I looked up the picture of BP, but...



I decided to try color correction using this photo.



Try increasing the brightness of the color correction and increasing the contrast...
There is. It is the red arrow part.




If you try color-correcting this photo, there is something in the red arrow part.




I tried color-correcting this photo as well...



After all, there is something in the red arrow part.
After finding it, I'm sorry I have to make it.
You need four fore-mast channel boards, four for the main mast channel boards, two for
the main mast stay channel boards, two for the Mizun Must channel boards, and 24 on both sides.
Would you like to make it from brass wire?

By the way, a picture of the last scene of "Pirates of the Caribbean Cursed Pirates"...
The red arrow part is a Mizun Must, but it is not a Latin sale (large triangular vertical sail)
but a normal side sail is attached.
There is no relief on the dark blue arrow part or side.
There is a relief in the yellow arrow part like this.
Looking closely below the channel plate, there is no support stay. The first and second
movies have similar BP numbers, but they are different.
I am producing 1/72 for the BP issue after the second movie.

The BP issue for the first movie is quite different from the BP issues for the second and later movies.
The shape of the hull is similar, but the details are quite different.
The deck layout is also slightly different. I also want to make the first BP issue 1/72. But when will it be..

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 20




Something like the support stay under the channel board that I found last time...
The official name seems to be Channel Support. It was written in a textbook
(Sailboat Modeling Technique: Kazunobu Shirai).
It's a BP for filming movies, but you're making the BP by wrapping up a pontoon.
This BP issue seems to have been made for the shooting of "Dead Man's Chest", the second movie.




To reproduce this, I made 24 shapes as shown in the picture using 0.5mm brass wire and dyed them with gun black.




I installed it immediately.
Just make a 0.5mm hole in the hull and insert it.
Channel part of fore mast on the starboard side.




Channel part of the main mast on the starboard side.




Channel part of the Mizunast on the starboard side.




Channel part of port mast on the port side.




Channel part of the main mast on the port side.




Channel part of the Mizun mast on the port side.
I found out that the channel support is under the channel, so I added it.
All you have to do is make a 0.5mm hole in the hull and insert the channel support made of brass wire.
It doesn't matter if it's a model or not, either. I was particular about it. (Tsu・`ω・´)b




We have mass-produced ring pins because the ring pins required to make the gun port lid are low in stock.
I made about 54 pieces.
I'm tired of my eyes.




The usual gun black is black dyed.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

It is a cutout of the gunport lid.
The third prototype of the mellpapa chopper was very successful (laughs)



A 1mm thick plate with a width of 10mm is cut into 8mm by turning it 90 degrees and turning again.
This completes the 8 x 8 mm gunport lid table.
All you have to do is cut for a few minutes!



Did you cut a little 8x8mm plates, about 26?
After that, about 40 pieces of 1mm thick 3mm width plate were cut by 6mm, this is the
back plate of the gunport lid.



I made a convenient jig to assemble the gunport lid using a plastic board and assembled the gunport lid.



First, fit the front plate of the gunport lid on this side.



Turn it inside out. It looks like this!



Stick the back plate of the gunport lid here.



After attaching two back plates, take them out.



I made sandpaper like this and made it beautiful.



I made about 24 pieces. I wish I had 20.
4 spares for the next process.



The 0.5mm pitch of Tamiya model's Zimmerit coating blade is attached to the red arrow.



The blade part is up. Using this, lines are made on the surface of the deck and outer plate of BP.
Is it a hatena to put grain in a tree? I like it.
This is the kind of scribble you can make when expressing a board with a plastic model.
The same thing is done with trees.



Make a line on the front and back plates of the gunport lid.



Hinges made of copper plate are glued with instant adhesive and punched with 0.5 mm.



Complete with ring pins attached.



The size is... I put it on a 10-yen coin and took a picture.
You can see the size.



I made 20 pieces as much as I needed.
Today is up to here.
The gunport lid was manageable. It took a long time. I'm tired of my eyes. After that,
I made a hinge pin, painted it and set it on the hull, but I will do it next.

 

[mrshanks]

I love the homemade Mellpapa chopper tool!!!!!

 

[Bryian]

Looks like you are building this on a full time basis Dave.

 

[mellpapa]

I love the homemade Mellpapa chopper tool!!!!!

The Mellpapa chopper is constantly evolving, and now it's designed to look like this!

 

[Uwek]

Great details and many Thanks to Dave and the modeler @mellpapa to this very interesting building log.
Please Dave, do not forget to copy the complete building log in the correct area for scratch building logs .... Many Thanks in advance

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 21



I painted the gunport lid. The hinges were rusty too, so I applied a little matte black.



Bend a 0.5mm brass wire into an L shape, cut it to an appropriate length, and dye it black with gun black.
This will be the hinge pin. It cannot be made like the 1/60 BP issue. The object is too small.
The short part enters the hinge and the long part sticks into the hull. Even if I stab it, I make a
hole with a pin vise 0.5 mm and insert it properly.



Attach a string for gun port lid open... Even if it is called a string, it is the thinnest sewing thread.



Furthermore, attach an L-shaped hinge pin...



Make a hole for the L-shaped hinge pin in the hull and insert it. This is quite difficult.
After inserting it, tie the sewing thread to the gunport lid open support stay, cut the excess
sewing thread when the instant adhesive is poured and hardened.
I attached the remaining gunport lid like this.



Preparation for the cannon. At the back of the cannon, cut about 1/3 and also the ears.
After that, open the muzzle with 0.8mm pin vise.



Prepare 20 pieces of 0.5mm thick plastic plate cut into 5mm x 5mm, and attach the cut cannon to it.



I paint it black with an airbrush, but I don't paint the muzzle with an airbrush.
So I'm going to paint with Matte Black first.



When the paint applied to the muzzle has dried, attach double-sided tape to the paint
stand (cigarette box) and mount the barrel.
Now you are ready to paint with an air brush.



Blow matte black with an air brush and wait for drying.



When the matte black has dried, apply a dry brush with silver and finish painting.
The rest is glued to the gun port.
Adhesive uses epoxy type. Instant adhesive (jelly-like) or bond can be used.
There are two short barrels, but for the gun ports on both sides of the bow.
For some reason, the depth of the gun port was narrowed on both sides of the bow.



I finished installing the gunport lid and the cannon.
It is a photograph on the starboard side.




This is a photograph of the port side.



It is a close-up photograph of the starboard side.



This is a slightly up-side picture of the port side.



Gunport lid and cannon up.

Gunport lid and cannon attached. Next time I want to manage the ladder.
Also, I have to make a drain cover under the gunport. Make a prototype with
a plastic board, mold it, and duplicate it with resin

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 22




The part covered by the red line is the drain cover.
This part is made using a plastic board or a rivet of a plastic model, and is made with
Oyumaru (Daiso) and duplicated with resin.



The square plate is a 0.5 mm thick plastic plate, and the U-shaped part is a 0.3 mm thick plastic plate.



Glue U-shaped parts to a square plate and glue it to the hinge with a plastic rod.



I stripped off the model rivet mold with a design knife.



Glue rivets.



The parts that have been made are cast with "Oyumaru". I was thinking of making a
mold with silicon, but I took one side...
It's 108 yen with Daiso. It's a great item for modelers.
It is easy and easy to mold by just warming it with hot water.



I cut "Oyumaru" into 8 pieces.



Can you see it being modeled?



Duplicate with resin and mass-produce.
You need 16 on both sides.



Fix the parts on the usual paint table (cigarette case) with double-sided tape.



Matte black was painted with an air brush.



Dry brush with silver and dry, then dry brush with red brown.



The size is about 4.2mm×3.5mm. You can see the size compared to a 10-yen coin.
I think it was a little big, but I don't care. (Lol)



I immediately glued it to the hull. This is the port side.
I'm not sure because the parts are small.



This is the starboard side.
Since the parts are small, I tried to enlarge it partially.
It is like this.
It's a little bigger than Gunport. Deformation means... OK.
I managed to make a drain cover under the gunport. That's all for today... Next is the ladder work.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Part 23



It is a ladder work. ( note: rudder may have translated to ladder )
Cut the 4 x 4 mm cypress using the actual material and the drawings.
It was not enough with just three. I added another one later.



Glue the cut timber against the drawing.
Tight bond was used as the adhesive. I liked the woodworking bond, but... recently I'm
using a tight bond for wood. It seems that the tight bond is dried faster.



It's a rough cut with mellpapa chopper.
You can easily cut even 4mm thick. It is useful because the cut end is vertical.
I'm really glad I made it!



After rough cutting, sharpen with a cutter, design knife, etc. and finish with sandpaper, and use
the Tamiya model's Tsumerito coating 0.5 mm pitch blade to put wood grain.



It is a work of Pintle Gajon.
A 0.1 mm copper plate about 12 cm long is cut into a width of about 1.5 mm.
I cut about 6 pieces.
The width was not uniform because it was not cut accurately with a machine. whatever!



A copper plate cut to a width of about 1.5 mm is cut in half into 12 pieces.
10 will be in time, but 2 are spares.



Use brass pipes.
Wave's C-pipe has a No. 3 outer diameter of 1.3 mm, inner diameter of 1.13 mm, and length of 120 mm.
This is used for gudgeon (hull side).
I also prepared a brass wire with a diameter of 1 mm. This is used for the pintle (ladder side).




first of all, I will make a gudgeon.
Attach a 0.1mm copper plate to the tip of the pipe with solder.
Wrap it around a pipe with a 0.1 mm thick copper plate adhered, tighten it with
pliers, and blow with a gas torch. The solder goes around.
I forgot to take a picture, but the part to be soldered is fluxed.



I made 5 gudgeons. After finishing the soldering, open the copper plate like this.



Pintle (the one in the photo above) was made in the same process as Gajon.



I tried combining Pintle and Gajon.
It looks like this!



I put a groove around the ladder to attach the pintle.
Shave with a design knife so that the pintle will enter.



The pintle was set on the scraped part of the ladder, a copper plate was wrapped around it, and
glued with an instant adhesive.
After that, make a 0.5 mm hole in the strip of the wrapped copper plate, insert a 0.5 mm brass
wire and bond it, and then cut with a nipper.
The brass wire should look like a nail...



How about that?
For details on how to make a wooden sailing ship model club "The Rope,"
the 30th anniversary publication "Sailing Ship Making Techniques" written
by Kazunobu Shirai, in my textbook.



Strike a brass wire in this row to complete the ladder.

 

[mrshanks]

MELLPAPA CHOPPER!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

The ladder is complete.



It is an expansion of the strip of copper plate. It looks like you've hit a nail!



The parts of the cypress were painted with oil stain (walnut), dried and then the painted parts were masked.
Matte black is painted on the pintle part.



Dry the matte black painted part with a silver dry brush, and then dry-brush with red brown.



Peel off the masking tape and you'll get hot!
As you can see
Painting depends on your preference, but this is OK for me!



I shot the other side.



I tried to add a gudgeon to the pintle of the ladder.



In this state, borrow the hull to determine the length of the copper strip and cut it.



The tools used this time.
I bought the soldering iron and stand about 30 years ago.
It has a long life.
I don't use it frequently, so it's natural that it lasts a long time. Tehhehe



We will borrow the hull to determine the length of the copper plate.
It may be a little hard to see because I am working with the hull upside down, but please be careful!
There is no such thing as a sample, so I decide the length according to my preference.
The way the BP ladder is attached in the movie is a bit strange. This is attached as if it were a dummy.
A rope or chain connects the rudder and the hull so that the rudder will not come off and run away, but
in the movie there was no such thing.
Therefore, I won't even attach it (laughs)



I fixed the copper plate in the white line.
After fixing with instant adhesive, make a hole with 0.5 mm and hammer in a brass wire.
It is the same as when you attached a pintle to the ladder.



I fixed the other two in the same way.




And it is painting. Apply matte black, silver dry brush, then red brown dry brush.



This is the other side.
I managed to build a ladder. Well, where do you want to go next? Well, let's make the
stairs on the side of the hull.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 24



Part making (rattar)
Is it okay to use the stairs on both sides of BP?
Should I call it Lattar?
It is the red circle part of the image.
It has steps, but it is a little difficult to cut like this because the parts are small.
Although there is a groove in the upper part, it is impossible to reproduce this too, so I will omit it.
Thinking about it, I wondered if I could combine three plates of different sizes to make it look like that...
Let's do it right away.



We prepared three 0.5 mm thick plates of different sizes. Let's stick this together.



It's upside down...



If you put this on the side of the hull, it will look like it.
This will go.



The mellpapa chopper mass-produces boards of each size.



Put the boards of each size in their respective cases so that they do not get mixed together.



It's so fine that you need to paste it!
So I made a jig for pasting.



Expanded.
I will stick together using this part.



Put the first one...



Bond the second one...



Next, glue the third sheet...



Done!



As you can see, it is a stepped rattle part.
It's pretty deformed though!



I got 21 pieces. But I can't keep up. I have to make about 7 more...



Wrap the masking tape around the pin vise 0.5 mm to make it a stopper to prevent it from entering further.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Drill a 0.5 mm hole in the rattle and embed a 0.5 mm brass wire. You'll be worried if you just glue it to the hull.



A brass wire of 0.5 mm was embedded in the whole rattle.
After that, just attach it to the hull.



Parts made (protection material for both sides of the ship?)
The part surrounded by the yellow line, the name is...……? What did you say?
Protecting material on both sides of the ship?
I don't really understand
If you know someone, please let me know on the "Black Pearl Bulletin Board".
Please.



It took a lot of time to make one with the actual thing together. It was repeated after shaving. This is called "A"



Cut out 4 pieces from a 2 x 5 x 900 mm cypress with a length of about 5 cm.




I glued it two by two. This time I used woodworking bond. I stuck it together.






Trace "A" on four laminated materials and cut out.
Since 4 pieces are cut out while being stuck together, 4 pieces of the same material can be made at once.
However, since it is still glued with a woodworking bond, put it in a small pot and add hot water to boil.
Then the woodwork bond will come off neatly.
The woodwork bond waste is squeezed with your nails.
After that, dry it and apply sandpaper. It's a little thick when it's 2mm thick, so I cut it with sandpaper up to 1.8mm.



Adhesion of parts
Hull reinforcement? I wonder, is it good? ? I pasted. I am worried that it will only
be glued, so I am embracing the brass wire. In the picture, it's flying white...
Decide the position of the rattle with masking tape, and then attach the rattle.



Bonding on the starboard side is complete!



Next, the bonding is completed on the port side!
I made the rattle in 3 steps, but it's a nice accent.
I feel like I've won after a long time!



It looks like this when painted.
It hasn't dried up yet, so I'll shoot carefully even when the weather is nice.
Both sides' lattars and hull side cover protection material that you were interested in?
I was refreshed because the part was made. The three-stage attack on the lattar thin plate
also worked well. Where should we do next?

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

PART 25



The stern lantern parts of the Black Swan of Zvezda are reproduced.
By the way, the Black Swan was modeled by Zvezda as the 1/72 Black Pearl, but
there is a restriction that it can be sold as the Black Pearl only in Japan.
This is a plastic model for the overseas export sale instead of the Black Swan.
It seems that you supply OEMs such as Eleele.
So the Poseidon statue and the lantern on the stern are that of the Black Pearl.
The Poseidon statue is currently being modeled in silicon.



The lantern parts seemed to be able to be single-sided, so I made them with Daiso's "Oyumaru" and
duplicated them with resin.
The photo is taken out of the mold.



The details are not so good as it flies white, but the burr is removed.
There are 3 lantern ceiling parts and 3 lower parts, and only 1 glass part. Using this
glass part, we plan to make 3 pieces by heat pressing using transparent ENVI board. First of all,
it is a preparation.



The Black Swan has a bird bow, so you must make your own Black Pearl angel statue.
I don't have the technology to make all figures from putty, so I have to use something to make them.
For 1/60BP, I made it with Tamiya 1/35MM figure and Hornet female soldier head.
This time the ship is 1/72, so I decided to make it from a 1/48 figure, so if I was wondering
if there was something good at the model shop...
I saw the 1/48 Soviet GAZ-67B and officer set. A female figure is set. It is also made by ICM.
If you look closely, it was a limited production.
I bought it immediately.



When you open the box...
Oh! This figure...



I took it out from a plastic bag.
The red circle is the upper body of the female soldier...



I uploaded it. It looks like a pretty beauty.



I cut it off from the runner, and also used "Oyumaru" to mold one side.



A is the original shape, B is the duplicate, and C is the duplicate that was cut out
so that only the face is taken out.
It's a resin so it's very easy to scrape. It is a preparation for figure head production.
Hair is made with Tamiya epoxy molding putty (quick curing type). For the body, we plan
to make it using plastic parts.
It looks like the resin is white and has no details... but it has details.
Even so, it's small. The head is about 5 mm.
With the figure head as large as this, I will proceed to the next work.



It is a silicone mold of Poseidon and fish monster on the upper part of the stern. Wax
is being applied to one side of the modeled silicone. After this, pour the silicone, and
once it has set, pour the plaster.
Since each work is done in parallel, the work skips from one place to another, or from
here, but it's a pity.

 

[Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)]

Now, this is the glass part of the lantern.
I made a hole in the 2mm thick veneer that was slightly larger than the glass part of the lantern.
It's a hole through which the original shape of the glass part can easily pass.
It is a heat press using this plate.
I searched for blister packs made of PVC in the trash and cut them into appropriate sizes.
Stop it on the plywood board with a thumbtack.



Go to the kitchen and use a gas stove to smoke the PVC attached to the plywood.
The size of the fire is the smallest.



When the PVC rubbed in the gas stove turns into tarn tarn, press the original shape of the glass.
Munch!



Then, a glass part of a lantern is formed.



Remove the vinyl chloride from the plywood board and cut it off.
After this, I tried to heat press about 3 times.
One is spare.



Insert one of the cut glass parts into the original shape.
It's a preparation for putting in the frame.



Whiteboard wire drawing tape, which will be used to attach the glass frame of the lantern.



The width of the vertical frame and the top and bottom are 1 mm width without changing the width of the tape.



The four frames inside were cut a little thin, but they didn't have the same thickness.



Lantern parts are available. The horn on the ceiling was replaced with a brass wire 0.8mm.
The lower part of the lantern is equipped with 0.5mm brass wire for ceiling support.
As a spare for the lantern glass part, I heat-pressed four, but I never used it.



I assembled it because I had all the parts. The adhesive was a quick-drying type and I used "Bond G17".
that? ...There are some horns that are skewed.



I painted the basic light green with a brush.
Dirt painting is done when adhering to the stern part. For now, it's dry as it is.
I fixed the horn that was tilted.



The mold that I was molding with silicon was made. The gypsum lining is also hardened,
but it's still moist, so wrap it in newspaper and let it dry.
This time, I was preparing for the stern part and the figure head, but for the time being
I got a lantern. I have more things to do, but I'll do it next time.